I found this on ebay. Can anyone advise me if it would be a good choice for lathe coolant?

Its 19.50 and Says:

Specifications

Voltage: 12v
Power: 100W
Flow: 1-4L/min
No-loading Current: 2.5A
Loading Current: 5A
Work cycle: 30min
Theory: Gear pump
Pump Diameter: Approx. 16x6.2cm
Inlet tube (approx.): 0.8x100cm (D x L)
Outlet tube (approx.): 1x100cm (D x L)

The actual ebay title is below (if anyone wants to find it themself:

12V Electric Car Oil Extractor Pump For Transfer Fluid Engine Vacuum w/Hose 100W

Hi John

Manchester.

I wonder how much to post? Shiply?

Hi all

can anyone help me find the Mike Cox article in MEW 181 Oct 2011 (referenced above) for a suds system- he used a windscreen washer pump

cheers

Hi Martin. Thanks for posting.

I may resort to the alternatives if I don't find one.

cheers

Hi all

Im looking for a Machine Block

Anyone have one for sale?

Thanks

Hi Howard,

I get you now.

Its the Mic stop type of design that I was hoping for with the clamp, but the Clarke bed isnt really suited with only 6mm of recess (which unfortunately has radius) at the rear to hold onto. It would find without radius.

As long as the magnets hold it which I'm confident they will, it'll be OK and easy to remove in case of tailstock use needed. It may even be better that its not fastened, as it might save the DTI/Vernier in case of accidental Tailstock bashing,

Thanks again for all advice

Hi Howard

I guess your talking about your Tailstock stop type thing (below)?

Could do, Yes.

I just feel its a bit over-engineered/extreme and would be a pain to remove.

BTW for a Tailstock stop I would drill/tap into lathe bed and use a Bolt or make a Threaded pin.

I guess time, materials and machines/Tools to hand will influence how we design things.

I will probably use Plastic Angle section instead of steel.

cheers

Hi guys

I thought I would update on this, and hopefully save you some drinking time.

So, the clamp thing (in my opinion) waste of time. The Plastic printing guy (eBay - great guy and knows his stuff) doesn't think it will work but did provide an option with magnets BUT with his clock embedded.

Im not keen on a 30mm clock or buying another when I have a few old ones around.

Got me thinking about using a >100mm digital vernier instead of 50mm clock at silly money.

If I have to use magnets, then I can prob make myself easy - right?

Turns out YES. There's a YouTube clip somewhere of a US guy making one with iGaging depth gauge. Can buy in UK for >£50 but Amazon £40 imported from US.

So for magnets.

I did loads of research using couple of magnet sites. Nothing perfect.

Then, I went back on Amazon and found these (below) because they have a hole which I can attached to Saddle (Oil Guard thingymabob) and I hoped the vernier marking wheel would be sufficient for pulling the gauge. It does perfect.

Magnetpro 8 Pieces Strong Neodymium Rectangular Magnets 20 KG Force 40 x 13.5 x 5 mm with Countersunk Hole and Capsule, Household and Industrial Rare Earth Magnet with Mounting Screws

Also, I thought the 5mm height and 40mm length would be OK for under a base-plate: which is a 70mm piece of 40mm angle iron (maybe with some 5mm packing also to avoid any snatching when installing). Note that I'm using 5mm drills in pic for testing the height.

Sorry I haven't fitted these yet so cant show a finished pic.

Turns out I didnt need these specific (8 pack) magnets, but thought I would share that they are very good, so I'm sure I'll find a use for them - one day! I could have bought just 1 of something similar for under the base-plate. With hindsight I would get 1 magnet of similar quality and 5mm height, which is good height for hitting metal on the Saddle oil-guard.

Anyway,

I also found this magnet: Magnetpro 8 Pieces Strong Neodymium Rectangular Magnets 20 KG Force 40 x 13.5 x 5 mm with Countersunk Hole and Capsule, Household and Industrial Rare Earth Magnet with Mounting Screws

Turns out this has an M3 screw. But would this small thing really be strong enough?

Yep. Ive just tried it with steel ruler on my desk and it sticks like shit to a shovel. So, turns out adding an iGaging vernier is a piece of cake.

BUT as with all things with this Clarke lathe, its not all good news as it's going to be in the way of the Tailstock.

cheers all

Coming soon - How to make a Gin Still out of a Clarke CL500M

Hi all

Im looking for a TR20 x 2 Trapezoidal Metric HSS Left Hand Thread Tap

Anyone got used to sell?

cheers

Vic your not public profile

Can you drop me a line, Im looking to pick your brains for cheapo Digital Caliper/ Reader install.

cheers

Hi Vic

I dont have the Clarke Block. I couldnt find one so have a piece of I section. Thats another story ...

I expect this block and vice all need to be squared up as well. I intend to install some keys in mine to speed that up.

I understand your described method and I guess old skool methods are the best.

I will drop you a line regarding digital caliper thingymabob. I'd like to install one if not too much messing.

cheers

Hi guys

I really appreciate your input.

Paul - yes it seems that your right about the limitations unfortunately. I at least expected to be able to machine flats on the end of a round bar or keyways, which would be best help in a locked lathe chuck.

The steel rule not a bad solution, which would probably be accurate enough in most cases. I do use that method for lathe cutters, until I can get a face cut.

Martin, I assume you mean the image below. I think is probably the best and quickest method; notwithstanding the 4 days P&P. But Im sure the tool will be very handy in future. approx £10

NDIY - You mean marking the top of bar with the cutter. This is probably as accurate as the balancing ruler (only because its fully dependant on eyesight) and again would probably be good enough in most cases (e.g. drilling for a screw in a collar).

It looks like a very expensive self-centering vice is the best bet for this type of work if routine, and maybe some V-blocks in a normal vice is the most cost effective; but either way the centre finding is still necessary each time you set up from a lathe.

I did design a solution after I posted the querie last nigh. See below:

Its a piece of round bar with a centre hole and through-hole down the centre. You could then use either a centre or a drill/bar in the Mill chuck to centre up. Would still need Martins solution (round bar centre finder) to make this though.

The only constraint that I can see is the position of the centre-hole, which I think is approx 3" from my Jaws (hence the reason for spigot for holding in lathe chuck).

Of course this need to be perfectly at 90degrees, but a slight turning of both the chuck and mill head by hand would get this pretty bob on.

Thoughts, improvements, appreciated.

cheers

Hi guys.

I havent used the drill/milling head on this machine yet and I'm just trying to work out how to approach jobs.

My first queries is regarding drilling into the centre of bar that is in the lathe.

As the drill/mill head is not fixed, how do I get it centred? I need a foolproof first time every time solution.

Cheers

Thanks stu

I'm paying visit to scrap merchant this week so will take cutting lists with me to do few jobs .

on another note, ive noticed that I need to remove an angle iron type lead screw guard in order to install a dti clamp.

Did your machine have One of these lead?

Very nice and good to hear that Axle F is alive and kicking.

Im gonna need one of those as well. My heart sank when I first used my lathe and found the saddle feed handle at the end of the machine.

cheers

Hi John/Stu

I dont have the luxury of saw. I dont even have the luxury of a 2"x2"x2" lump of PB yet (which is circa £45 - any ideas on getting a cheaper lump much appreciated)

I was thinking whether to saw and clean-up. Then was thinking about slitter-saw, but worried about gap.

That lead me to thinking whether I should cut first and drill/tap afterwards (thus providing the possibility of using smaller pieces of PB).

That then led me to wondering if a gap was required.

So in your humble opinions, would you advise against splitting first; and what would be the optimum gap (as in either case, this could always be skimmed last should you now consider with hindsight that a bigger/smaller gap is preferred)?

cheers

Stu

It say 'I then cut the half nut in two'.

Hi guys

Can you please tell me how you split your half-nut PB block?

cheers

Hi guys

I thought I would update on the Splash Guard.

I do beg your forgiveness for the bloody mess.

As you can see I'm trying to sort milling stuff out and looks like that I-section is looking well too high (and therefore the £80 Clarke block would be even less suitable). Looks like I need 4" height max if I'm going to use it as low as poss and locked-up to avoid vibrations - as it should be I guess.

Any comments - Im happy to take them onboard.

BTW - the Miller column/Collar could do with a bit of lub. Is the 68 Oil advised by David above OK for that as well?

Cheers