Member postings for Chris Mate

Thanks, you have a point about the offset thing. I started the other day with accidently had it off set towards me(The front), and it sounded better than today, thats why I decided to question it.

My feed rate was slow manually, slower than the other day with offset due to sound. I think I might have cut 1-1.5 mm off in this go.

I cut one, the cut looks 100% well to me. I will change the offset to the other day, and cut the 2nd one that day.
-I will then remove facemill and inspect cutter tips.
-I will then call it a day on milling till I got the right ER32 or ER40 tools & cutters.

Edited By Chris Mate on 18/01/2022 11:44:52

Ok, at moment I am busy milling the 2x small tools I made to bolt and fine adjust the swivel bed 100% square. I grinded them with grinder , drill holes and tread on on each, and mill the bases flat so they bolt on square to bed base.

I set up the cutter by letting the 4x brazed inserts tips down on a round plate on top of vice I considered flat enough, and tightened them with least stickout, just a bit.

Today I mill their top sides to same height and sqare to the base.

My question is, is this type of milling consider a good or bad practice(-?) seeing its an interrupted cut, from what I can it is somewhat convrntional milling with the centre of the facemill lined up with the centre of the part and milling it from front view left to right under through cutter with cutter spinning clockwise. The cut result looks perfect to me, no irregularities on face.

Facemill(Received with mill)=80mm MT4 with 4 clamed brazed carbide inserts.
With of part=20mm...................Cut with 80mm facemill.
Lenght of part=50mm..Clamed in vice.
Speed=II + L setting=540rpm.

Good or bad-?
If ok what depth of cut maximum you suggest for this operation, speed suggestion 80mm versus 20mm-?

Interesting question, not an expert but I was surprised what Google search had to say...
This is a bit off the topic ....
1-high-nickel cast iron...Not all cast iron created equal......
2-Low load continious running with not much stop starts....

Youtube:
"Machining a Cast Iron Bearing"....I see ABOM79 machined a cast iron bearing, look at this.

Maybe someone has 1st hand experience of aplications-?

Edited By Chris Mate on 17/01/2022 20:25:26

Edited By Chris Mate on 17/01/2022 20:26:49

I have a small drill press(1-8mm), a larger one (6-20mm) holes and now a mill.
So far the 2x drill presses never going away.

I have a general type of a question regarding drill bits & sizes and milling bits and sizes. I assume drill bits in general are not accurate by the way they operates therefore reamers, milling bits more of an accurate thing.
Not sure about indexable drill bits in drill presses and what they require in stiffness.

The question is with milling machines the spindle and whole operation is more secure, and with drilling machines(The home types) less so. So the question is is the slight play or forgiveness in drill presses more to the favour of the drill bits, less stress on them, than a mill will put on it drilling seeing it does not cut sideways as in milling, so if it wonders off a fraction the mill will put force on it to stay straight-?

Edited By Chris Mate on 16/01/2022 13:03:32

Edited By Chris Mate on 16/01/2022 13:04:10

Made 2x fixtures that bolt to the lower bed each side(Can be easily removed) to adjust the swivel bed accurately square without tapping it..
Decided to mill the fixtures flat to fit to bed, very happy with some milling for the 1st time, and how the quil fine asdjustment worked.

Previously ightend the MT4 Drill chuck as suggested on this forum with drawbar. Had no problem removing it, just one light tap with aliminium mallet. Replaced with Facemill that came with milling machine.

Before I bought a QCTP I had a slotted wooden tray and place each toolholder with it's shims in one slot, so I sorted the shims once.
For a set of 10mm insert toolholders which are all perfectly the same height, I made a separate toolpost with a fixed groove calibrated to the height, so no shims or moving parts.
The QCTP came with 4 holders, but that is not enough, I need to buy more, maybe at least another 3.

On advice origially with the lathe from a local machinist, I raised the lathe as well as new mill and not regretting it.

With mill I went to him he has a knee mill, we put in his biggest vice and I adjusted the bed up & down till I liked it, then measured his bed table from the floor, and that lead to how much I must lift my mill, so I poured a concrete raiser with 6x bolte protruding and bolted the cabinet the mill mounted on down.

Note:My theory is if you bolt the lathe down, you must shim it to cut straight if whatever you bolt it down to is not perfectly flat.

Edited By Chris Mate on 12/01/2022 04:17:01

Thanks, the angled mill will serve a purpose, however in this case I must clamp it to the table(Too big for vice) at various angles, separate operations to reproduce what I made up already, in this case the end result will be simple, one lid with a glass(New visible refective part for oil kicking back from). I have to mill it from the bottomside as well. Theres no way I can do this quickly. Thers going to be flat surfces at an angles pointing o each other with a drainage path leading to a cross over drainage U channel delivering the oil to the spindle bearings. One vtrick is the holes chamferred from the bottom but flash from the top.-The oil shoots in the hole morec easily it can flow back as holes are tilted as well, the size of the hole matters to thickness of oil.

So the end result will be simple=One lid with a glass and the oil catch concept in it/part of it. LId take off, this is removed too. At monent it works like this but is two parts, I don't want any screwes/3mm bolts anyehere in the design, that may be a risk .
Note: I had to fit a tank(small inside the gearbox with 4mm holes in the bottom for drainage. Itwork like this.
-I fill the gearbox with more oil.
-I fitted a vertical oil indicator to see how tank works and oil level stationary.
-I lower gears oil (68) is kicked up high due to higher level and catched, but the tank dont get filled and it has no effect on motor power due to lower gears chosen.
-At higher gears the tank is quicklt filled(4 seconds) and it stays full, lowering the oil level so mtor is not dragged by oil. The oil level indicator quickly drains to lowest mark which is original level for gearbox.
as the tank is filled it keeps on draining, till motor i stopped. Then it drains empty and level is back high again.
Not all gearboxes will be able to have an internal tank, but external will be just as good.

--Catching oil is not a 100% effort, every catch point does block oil upwards as well, but 50% is enough, oil is somewhat stored over the whole path catched as well. If motor is stopped oil run for few minutes down from here through spindle bearings.

-Grease=Why not grease in spindle as manual indicates=Well the spindle bearins are open to the inside and sideway splashes from the inside washes over thime the grease out, some of the grease block the drain holes making the bearings leak put as well, now i does not leak out anymore. If the bearings was not open to the inside, the grease of spindle would have made sennse in this lathe.

I think I may learn a lot trying to make it. I will have to reposition the part multiple times.

Note:The vice will not be part of this.
Thought if I want to swivel the vice, I just remove the two clampling bolts to T-Nuts(No T-NUT-Stud used here) and leave the vice on centre dowl but clamp it with the clamping set or a less space taking made up clamp effort, I forget I can do this.

Like it, had one made for my lathe, now waiting for one for the mill around the vice to be used with vice.

Hi Howard,

Later on I want to mill manually a catchplate for oil regarding my Lathe gearbox of which I have a prototype like made of expereimental pieces bolted together with certain shapes & holes & 3 sections to catch oil splashed upwards from 3 gear positions representing splashing in lowest, faster, fastest gears forwards. The splash pattern is different for each type of speed. The thing is constructed in such a way it deliver the oil to both spindle bearings constantly without any moving parts. It works like a charm for a few months now. My current top is wood frame with a 6mm glass inserted.

Its a long story but I discovered spindle bearings do not get oiled as I though would happen after I seen it through the glass. I just do this because it interested me.

One reason I bought the swivel bed mill, is I cannot see how I can mill certain angles inside the square top of the gearbox (thick aliminium plate)applicable after the outside diameters, and 6mm lowered indent is milled to accommedate a glass window so I can again see whats going on. I need the vice to travel with the bed(Swivel left to right-right to left) plane at an angle (Apart from 3 degree angles up/downwardst o make oil flow) to accomplish that. My understanding is that if I horizontally swing the vice, and not the bed, it will just cut as a lathe do when you select the cross slide(Always with lathe bead to headstock) instead of the topslide(Angled).

I may be wrong in my understanding of this, but will proof it as soon as I actually can mill, still buying stuff, I have patience and dont want to plow a lot of money in one go at it.

 

Edited By Chris Mate on 10/01/2022 19:54:39

Mill with Swivel Bed-ZAY7045M
-No hammers or mallets to tap on vice.

So today I modified my "centre dowl" for the vice to swing around a centre point for easy calibation square to the swivel bed of the mill. It has pros and cons.

0-The swivel bed must be adjusted square 1st, otherwise you don't get the vice 100% square.

Put vice on a centre point:
1-The "centre dowl" had a play so i have to tap the vice on the back also. To eliminate this problem, I turned the 15mm sticking out above the table down somewhat to 20mm. I then made a 3.5 mm sleeve from a bronze rod I had, bore it out to a press fit. I then turn the bronze outside diameter down for a slip fit into the vice no play.
-So now the vice swivel around this point which is in line with the vice 2x clamping bolts/positions to the table with no play.

Adjust vice like a 4x jaw chuck:
2-The 2 x flat bars I made to sit on each side of the vice 20mm x 30mm x table bed with and screw to table with 4x bolts/T-Nuts for each groove, I drilled a hole on the handle side towards the vice horizontally, sink & thread 2x 8mm hex bolts with a spring for each to keep them stiff. Now with these two bolts I can adjust the vice around the pivit point very accurately with relative ease like a 4x jaw chuck.
-I takes 3 moves and I cn adjust that the needle run dead still no movement from the one end of the fix jaw of the vice to the other end...No tapping with mallet.
-I tighten the vice csrews slightly both in this case.
-I then run the bed and indicator and adjust one of the two screws on one bar, then the other one till needle is still whole way.
-I then tighten th vice nuts zig zag pattern till tight and recheck.
-I like this.



--------------------------------------------------------------Pos/Cons---------------------------------------

Pros=
1-No tapping, get 100% accurate reading at dial indicator at.01mm.
2-For this method, neither the vice sides, not the 2x flat bars needs to be milled/grinded precisely square, other than the bottom of the flat bars resting on the mill bed/table.


Cons=The con I can see so far is say I want to mill a 45 degree corner at the end of a piece of metal, I will have to remove the vice, remove the centre point, and swivel the vice, this is not the same as swivilling the bed as far as I understand, so I cannot achive this by swivelling the bed at 45 degrees seeing it then still travel around the spindle with vice squared to the bed.
-I am not sure how many times in future I will need to do this. If it becomes a nuisance I am back to square-1.


Next:The bed fine adjustment.
-I must get a larger precission square for initial lineup.
-I think i now understand the trade off/inter dependance of the vice jaw and the swivel bed alignment.
Next similar thing to do: I think next I am going to find a way to make 2x adjuster for the bed on the front side to calibrate tit 100% square without tapping the bed. I have an idea to make it so it can just flip out of the way should I want to swivel the bed to X- Degrees.

Note:I think if I say one can compare the swivel bed effect, like that of the lathe topslide degree adjustment and using it to cut at angle. If the cross slide is used, it does not cut at an angle, something like this for the mill.So if you swivel the bed, its not the same as swivelling the vice as you run the bed and cut.

Note:Just for interest sake seeing this is a swivel bed, say I have bought a fixed bed mill and the horizontal plane left to right-right to left is out by factory, I assume I will battle to get the vice trammed 100% square-??

Correct me where I am wrong in understanding this, will appreciate it.

I have a similar problem MT4 spindle however:My next buy is collets.

The dealer said ER32 is the most popular and will be good for my mill, however a guy I watch on Youtube has opted for ER42 collets on a smaller CNC modified mill, have not had asked him why not ER32....

I have two keyless chucks from different manufacturers.

I think the one in the lathe is the better one which I bought from a company that sells better tools than the normal chinese stuff....Did not had problems with this one up to 20mm holes. Never had to take it off to release.

The other one is in my larger drill press(Black colour) If I drill larger holes like 20mm it really pulls tight. I have to remove it clamp in a vice and use the spanner with it to losen the chuck.

You should get a spanner matching the chuck with it.

Operations I am used to, then its easy. I think key is to gain some awareness. I am not an expert, and my methods may have holes in them.

-Don't open unknown e-mails.If theres a link, theres may be a cookie coming.
-Services:Have services disbled that is not necessary for your operations.

-If you install -TCPView- from Microsoft, it will tell you interesting stories you did not know about.
--Disable "Show unconneted endpoints" for a more quick uncluttered view

-All the others said about cookies & history.....You can be selective if you dont wan't passwords lost.

-Be ready to disconnect/pull your cable to Router at lapop(Easy at laptop) or computer (Not always in sight), or have the Router placed so its easy to disconnect from there. If you see data going you dont expect pull the cable and investigate. Router=Ip changes on startedup if you dont have a fixed IP adress, so I dont leave the router connected if not used.
-Keep eye on TaskManager the Network part. If you don't upload specificly , the bytes received should always be way more than the bytes send. Or any new Taskmanager like on Win 10 etc. I once used this simple feature to prove which PC/Laptop was infected eating up a bussiness data every month, asked everybody to keep their Taskmangers going for a week.
-DDOS attack settings in Router: There may be a setting="Source IP Blocking" I found if this setting is checked it may mess with your experience in strange ways.
--I always, thanks to TCPView, keep Router disconnected but started, then start the Laptop, Login,-wait till it loaded, then open browser let it load fully(View taskmanager activity), then I connect the Router to Laptop. Now a lot of crap is not loaded.
-Look at you Router TX/RX lights for activity expected or not.
-Look at your Laptop/Computer Disk light activity for expected or unexpected activity. On my Win 10 Dell I have a small mirror placed to see disc activity. If your PC is -installing-updates you dont want to mess with it when the disc is active my experience



Note:Experience with a cookie many years ago(Somewhat Funny).
Sometimes my Computer locked up for no reason out of the blue, I have to reboot to clear.
-I found my disk activity is 100% leaving Taskmanager with nothing going on but Computer extremely slow actually, the disk running in circles.
-I then found its if I connected to a cetain News Website only.
-I proved its a cooke from this website, however I cannot delete it....After 3 days of headscratching I found a way.
The cookie cannot be deleted, but I could transfer it(Cut-Paste) to the A-Drive disc. I could not delete it then from there either. So I tool the A-Drive disc cut it with scissors and throw it in the rubbish bin literrally.

-I then never visted the site for months, and never had the problem again.

 

Edited By Chris Mate on 08/01/2022 04:54:49

Edited By Chris Mate on 08/01/2022 04:58:00

Edited By Chris Mate on 08/01/2022 04:59:05

Edited By Chris Mate on 08/01/2022 05:02:19

How do your cylindrical toolholder clamp, do you grind a flat section in it and scew it secure in toolholder which will bring it same position everytime you re-install it in holder, and then grind the front tip angles & shape, or can it move around and you have to set it each time-?

Edited By Chris Mate on 07/01/2022 18:37:00

Thanks, a lot to consider. At the moment I have a plan and made it partially, thats "flexable" in the sense that I need to mill the vice sides just to get good contact, and the 2 bars I bolt with 4x 12mm bolts to T-slots on both sides of the vice, they need to be machined too.

My theory is if the vice is trammed, I just shift them stiff against both sides of the vice which is located on a bolted centre pin to T-slot in centre of table. So I if take out the vice it goes in a specific position back on the table & if I remove the vice maybe I dont need to remove the 2x bars to clamp something with the clamping kit over it, I surely need to lift it off the table in any case, so if I mill the tops flats of the bars with the table/spindle they can serve a sendary purpose and be ready foir the vice again.

I like the tapered pin idea, and if my location idea turn out a failure, I look at the other ideas given, thanks.

I will have to see if this is repeatable for vice and works out mostly, maybe I need to remove one only sometimes. Will post a photo of it.

Thanks, I think I will 1st get it accurately set to where I am happy with it. Then I will cut a test square and measure it. I must also see if the swivel table(2x bolts) stay tuned when mill is used.
After that I will consider cutting the table and go further. This is a new Drill/Mill type and I am still busy doing some mods to catch chips and drain coolant etc, and buying tools that go with it. Its eating some money every month, most fuel money I don't drive.

Thanks, my mill bed has 4x T-Slot rows. I looked at it and the near 2 rows is slightly different gap than the last two, and their insides the sides does not seems ground 100%, not sure I can trust the accuracy here. The gap is around 16mm, so a 16mm both can go through, slip fit last two rows and somwhat loose 1st two rows.

I have the Vertex VA-4 vice. It was twice the price of a similar anglock vice from China, this one from Taiwan, I think its a nice one.

From your experience if these T-Slot groves are not 100% accurate, how will it effect your idea-?

Edited By Chris Mate on 06/01/2022 18:20:07

Ok< so I know the ZAY7045M with swivel bed is going to be different, so for last 2 days I played with setting up the vice with a .01 Dial Test Indicator.

My 1st attemp went good.
-I lined the bed up with its zero mark.
-I placed the vortex 4 vice in the centre of the bed, slightly tighten one bolt.
-I then tram the vice with not too much difficulty so needle run virtually steady.

My 2nd attemp was a disaster.
-I loosen the bed it can swing 45-0-45.
-I try to trim the bed from spindle to its front side which seems nicely grinded. This was a battle, I do it as good I as could, ignoring the zero mark.
-I got this to a non satisfactory standard.
-I then try to true the vice..No real luck.
--I made a centre point which you screw into the table, like a T-Nut with a round face sticking out and sits into the vice centre which is also a centre through the two bolts tightning it, so that was good.
--With this I saw the vice centre in the centre under the spindle centre as zero, the dial test indicator swings out both sides. There was no way I could get the vice trammed near good enough.

My 3rd attemp. Quick and easy.
-I loosen the bed again, clamp a precission square I had(New) and true the bed up to that, which went well, and no swing of needle. Good eough at .01.
-I then tram the vice. With the bed square, it went easy, no deflecttion of needle at .01, so good enough.

I know that my trueing is probably limited to the vice jaw with and the square lenght.

So what I learned from this is, if the bed is not squared well, you battle to get the vice trammed. This effort gave the results I wanted, better than 1st attemp.

So in future I must get a longer preceission piece to clamp in vice, as well as a larger square to get more precission. I also made two 20x30xbed size steel plates to bolt both sides of vice in made up t-slots, so my plan here is to mill the vice sides as well as these steel plates to keep the vice in position, if I need to remove it. I will see if this work as planned. I can bolt other stuff like stops to these plates, I can also add adjusting screws to adjust the vice instead of tapping it.

It was interesting to see theres a quick way out if I do it in steps, so if I battle with the vice, the bed must be out.

Nex t time to tram the head and flatness from spindle perspective.
Will have to think about this.

Edited By Chris Mate on 06/01/2022 16:29:26

Edited By Chris Mate on 06/01/2022 16:31:02

Basic digital applications were such a wonderfull assistance orriginally, then they went overboard with it at a cost easy money streams at a huge cost for the individual, maybe some day nobody has to work.