Member postings for Compulsive purchaser

Can anyone shed any light on these tooling cutters? They came with a milling machine I purchased a few months ago.

Some are stamped “SISO”, approx 3/4” to 1” diameter.

I have a 1976 xl125K with the trials TL type front mudguard that has the same one piece head, amazingly the head is still in good condition and survived the big end bearing failing. Completely rebuilt the engine some ten years ago however have never ridden it since. I can’t see myself ever getting rid of it!

Edited By Twf on 20/06/2022 18:56:44

I repainted my Boxford PD8 pillar drill in the correct “Boxford green” sold by Paragon paints. I also have a 2017 Warco WM14 mill and the Boxford green is an absolutely perfect match for it (looks totally different from the “reseda green” posted earlier today. Sorry no idea why it is upside down!

Edited By Twf on 14/06/2022 17:23:46

Mod Edit: rotated photo.

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 14/06/2022 18:20:51

What size machine vice would people recommend for a Warco WM14 milling machine? I don’t want to buy too big a vice for the table.

thanks

Continuing my sort out and trying to slim down my tooling collection it turns out I have quite a few chucks for my Super 7!-

2x 6” independent 4 jaw Burnerds - one of these can definitely go.

- 5” self centring 3 jaw Burnerd ML7 with internal jaws

- 5” self centreing 3 jaw Burnerd ML7 with external jaws - both of these are very little used, I kept these at the time as it was easier to swap chucks than jaws.

- 5” Burnerd Griptru with internal and external jaws - this has seen a fair bit of use from the look of it.

- 5” Bison / Myford 3 jaw SC with internal and external jaws in excellent condition

- 4” TOS 4 jaw self centring with int and ext jaws

- 4” TOS 3 jaw self centring with int and ext jaws, this appears to be new.

I will obviously keep 1x 4 jaw independent, and the tos 4 jaw but really can’t decide which others to keep!

My Super 7 was retrofitted with the quick change gearbox after purchase, however I still have a box full of change wheels (and the original non-gearbox side cover)

Am I correct in thinking that these change wheels are rendered completely redundant by the Quick Change Gearbox? I am having a good tidy up and clearout of anything I deem surplus!!

Thanks for replies,

Mine is a early Power Cross Feed with induction hardened bed lathe in original Myford grey before the changeover to green, however the trough is painted Myford green, which I had assumed had been repainted so I was going to repaint it the correct white, however on closer inspection the green looks to be original, there is no trace of either white or cream underneath it, so I will leave it as is!

My early Super 7 power cross feed model has an induction hardened bed however there is no riveted plate signifying this present on the front face of the bed (I have the original receipt for my machine stating the hardened bed was specified at purchase)

Am I correct in thinking that prior to the plate being fitted the Super 7’s were painted white between the two bed faces to signify the induction hardened bed, instead of the usual cream paint for the standard bed?

Thank you for the above information, it is indeed that arm that I am referring to.

I was hoping to buy a ready made example as I have very little spare time however looks like I will be making my own arm.

The arm from my Myford lathe taper turning attachment has been mislaid in moving workshop and may have accidentally been disposed of so I am trying to source a replacement.

The new “Myford” company will not sell an arm separately, insisting I have to purchase the complete £500 kit again just to obtain the arm.

Anyone any ideas on replacing it?

Thanks!

I work for a large DNO and they decreed last year that any new electric supply we now install has to be three phase to cope with extra demand on the system in the future. This is even if the existing mains / transformer is single phase, we have still have to lay new three phase cables to the property and fit a 3phase cutout.

I picked up a ML7 in similar condition a couple of years ago - I was on a work job and spotted it bolted to a bench languishing in an old garage; I mentioned it and was told to take it away if I wanted it; I gave them fifty pounds for it as didn’t want to just take it for nothing. Everything was seized but it all came free. It hadn’t been used since the 70’s and even before then only very occasionally and once the rust was removed it had almost no appreciable wear.

Apart from the obvious new belts etc I only had to obtain a new micrometer dial, feedscrew and handles which had been damaged, and a new capacitor for the motor (and rewired it from the “twin and earth” complete with chocolate block connector mid length!)

Sadly I didn’t take any “after” photos and only have one when I obtained it. It is now with someone who is cherishing it again.

Micheal, mine does indeed have the two gib blocks instead of strips.

Prior to fitting them, I span the nuts up and down the threads and they seemed fine. With the old feedscrews they were lovely and smooth in action, they just had noticeable slip backwards and forwards.

May have to make a phone call!

Edited By Twf on 28/10/2021 09:16:08

Yes, they came from “Myford” in plastic bags with the yellow and blue cardboard headers on, purchased last week for £110 or so the pair.

I have oiled the thread copiously and worked them back and forth a number of times to no avail.

I recently purchased new imperial top and cross slide feedscrews and nuts from Myford /RDG for my mid 60’s Super 7 to replace the incredibly worn originals.

After fitting both feedscrews and nuts, the operation of both top and cross slides is very stiff (I haven’t adjusted any gib strips). It is worse the more they are screwed in, and in one revolution of the screws, they both seem to have a stiff part and a smoother part. I have adjusted the adjusting collars to provide varying degrees of clearance, with no avail. If I undo the two cap head screws slightly which hold the end plates on, I get an improvement but still not great.

Can anyone offer any advice? Many thanks.

My method on a Myford is to clamp a 1/2” drive 10mm Allen hex socket in the chuck and use makita 1/2” impact driver, never fails. I removed a chuck that had been stuck on ML7 since 1960 like this recently, unscrewed it instantly.

Thanks for replies- I have looked on RDG website and they don’t have them listed.

Unusually, mine isn’t worn, it has snapped! Something was knocked off a shelf above the ML7 and landed on the crossslide handle, which snapped clean off taking with it the last 1/2” of the feed screw, and shattering the Mazak nut in the process! I have a replacement Mazak but haven’t yet located a replacement feed screw.

I am an overhead linesman, we still use spikes and ladders if needs be!

Overhead power cables are under a lot of tension and require the use of winches, rated pull lifts and strops due to achieve the required tension. The minimum rated pull lifts we use are 0.5T off the top of my head, used for low voltage cables.

I’m trying to sort out an old ML7 - the cross slide lead screw has been damaged many years ago. They aren’t listed on myford (rdg)’s website, any ideas on where I might pick one up? Are there any dealers who dismantle machines?

I also need one of the black plastic bushes that fit on the countershaft and allow the alloy cover section to slide on the countershaft housing.

Thanks.

Thankyou for the replies

The spindle is definitely bent on the 0.5hp motor - I removed the armature and set it up in lathe and it was over 1mm out, this combined with the Boxford’s very tall pulley causes a real wobble. With the motor on the bench and plugged in it really vibrates hence me swapping it out.

I have had to replace the capacitor in the 0.33 Brooks motor however once fitted, it runs true and is nice and smooth. I will give it a go and see how it fares - it hasn’t cost me anything other than £10 for the new capacitor.

The Boxford does 82rpm in lowest gear which is handy for drilling stainless.