Member postings for Mike Hurley

Hi All. Upgraded my old lathe a while back with a Newton Tesla VFD package, and have been very happy with the end result. Just one item needs clarifying though - on the panel is a speed control knob with colour segments making up the legend. Some sections (lower speed ranges) are red.

Now common sense suggests the following

Green segments = OK to use full whack, long as required.

Yellow (highest speed) = Perhaps OK for a bit, not extended use though.

Red = ?. Is this do not use at all or yes OK for a very short bit but not recommended or use at own risk?.

I understand the apsect of motors overheating etc at lower speeds with VFDs, but wondered if anyone had the definitive answer regarding the red segments. There's no mention of these in the NT documentation. I could ask them directly but thought it may be of interest to other members first.

(Apologies for the truly grotty photo)

Similar situation with my mother-in-law some years back now. The keysafe is perfectly OK (assuming its a good quality one) and to be fair - considering how easy a yale lock (as you are considering fitting from your text) can be defeated in relation to a sturdy mortice job would seem much the better idea IMHO.

We never had any issues with the keysafe that was fitted and it certainly made life all-round bags easier for everyone. These situations are never easy to get right as there is no 'fits all' solution for each individual case - yuou just need to make a value judgment on best advice / evidence

Hope that helps & things work out OK

Mike

Back in the 70's I worked for a small company who restored office equipment - primarily electro mechanical invoicing machinery (pre-computer). These consisted of a vast amount of parts that were removed , cleaned and re-fitted if servicable. There were about 10 of use working in a large converted victorian house near Birmingham.

We used stuff called 'Ultraclean' (a trade name) by the gallon in spray cans, think it was basically Trike?

Virtually everyone smoked, ventilation was by someone opening the back door if everyone complained of stinging eyes! Gawd knows what damage we must have done to ourselves but H&S didn't seem to come into it in those days. For all their faults and excessive over-the-top nonsense, at least workers are better protected in most cases these days.

Mike

Thanks for the feedback Nigel, a most interesting read. This was just an 'oddity' to me as something I'd never come across before - having not attempted similar jobs previously. I agree this item does look like a cheap-and-cheerful version of the Speith locknut you mentioned, same principle but the Speith being a more elegant and finely engineered part.

It never ceases to amaze me that there is 'nothing new under the sun' as the saying goes, that with every problem somebody has always already figured out a solution somewhere / sometime!

All the best, Mike

Just an update: After removing the spindle, examination showed a good 1mm up/down and .5mm side to side movement! Was a bit daunted, but suddenly noticed that the pre-load nut at the top was loose - quickly screwing it back into place with fingers seemed to make the movement less, so hoped this was all required.

Made up a custom pin-spanner (see photo) and was able to re-tighten things quite accurately. Free play removed yet still running nice and free with no feel of grunge in the bearings. The pre-load nut is an oddity, it's split part way through and locks by 2 screws distorting the upper section.

Tightening these down with sufficient clockwise force to be effective is difficult without also tending to rotate & tighten the nut - upsetting your original positioning.
I found a handy pair of cranked nose pliers (see photo) that just fitted into the 2 holes used for the pin spanner which allowed me to hold the nut in position when tightening the screws.
End result after re-assembling - very happy. It's like a new machine, and in fact I think better than it ever was!

I know a chap did a youtube on a re-designed nut which seemed quite well thought out (a two part assembly), but I wasn't sure how it was meant to be accurately tightened, so haven't considered it further at this time. May re-visit it if I find the problem returning later.
So if your WM mill seemes a bit 'off', don't necessarily despair - may be just a straightforward adjustment rather than bearing changes! Just hope my experiences may be useful to others in the future.
regards Mike

I had forgotten about that when I saw it again recently - it just beggars belief how anyone could have worked like that, even more terrifying when you realise these are just wooden ladders lashed together. For one not good with heights or ladders it genuinely made me feel ill! What a character!

Am recording it - interesting to see how it goes. Even if it's just a re-hash of numerous things i've seen before it's got to be miles better than most of the 'reality / celebrity / quiz show' twaddle that's on most of the time.

I'm currently enjoying a few odd episodes of good old Fred Dibnah on BBC4 and the Drama channel - I've seen them several times before, but still find them enjoyable.

I've tried several ideas, none ever worked out as ideal. Connected a led ring light, which was OK but did give a pattern on the object being illuminated which could sometimes be confusing. I also tried a quite small but powerful led spotlight on a bendy arm - not too bad but always seemed to give a hard shadow on the side I needed to check! I finally went back to the traditional reflector lamp with a 'soft' led reflector lamp bulb fitted. Good compromise.

regards Mike

Edit - yes 'Angel eyes' was the term I couldn't remember for the 'ring' light.

Edited By Mike Hurley on 10/02/2022 10:20:48

Why oh why do trouser manufacturers insist on making waistbands higher & higher ever 5 years or so. My 'waistband' is now nearly halfway up my belly (or beer-gut to be precise) now. I think its a bad design flaw.

Anthony - love the sock putter-onner! Must get one!

Welcome Adam. Loads of useful info and friendly advice here. Getting machinery down narrow stairs is perfectly doable with extreme care and enough hands! David's comments about partial dismantling is perfectly sensible, but I would caution you against this if you are a 'beginner' (with lathes and such). If you don't know what you are doing its very easy to end up with something that doesn't work as it should do or is severly innacurate when re-assembled!

There is plenty of choice out there, but in your situation you have limits. As is often quoted on this forum when similar questions are posted - try to get a clear idea of what you intend to use it for first. That will give you a baseline - then look to buy a bigger version of what you think (limited by £ and in your case practical access) as you will always want to move on to larger projects than you thought.

All the best with yout search

regards Mike

Spoilsport.

Look, they often laughed at Brunel with some of his ideas - look how most of them turned out! (we'll wash over some of his disasters though). So, I shall go get my super-large top hat & waistcoat, stick a big cigar in my mouth and get designing automatically folding turbine blades.

Absolutely Nick! Allways makes me chuckle.

He does some fine work though

Mike

Thats quite elegant in my opinion, with a bit of thought they could have made it a bit bigger, stuck some blades on it and made it wind turbine at the same time - so dual purpose!

What about the Steve Fletcher (The Repair Shop) approach of mutiple pairs of glasses? Variable magnifications & quite cheap if using 'readers' at £1 pair.

P.s. and keeps both your hands free!

Edit for p.s.

Edited By Mike Hurley on 06/02/2022 10:12:35

I have the same type of QCTP (RDG) and had similar issues at first. As described in several of the replies so far, it's just a matter of 'feel'. just drop them in and check the CH. I use a similar optical gauge to Clive Foster (simple & works well) clamp up and if not on CH just loosen with the lock lever a touch and adjust height with the knurled nut, lock again and 99% of the time you will remain spot on. If so, lock the adjuster with the cap screw.

One funny thing to watch out for (don't know if this is the case with all types of QCTP or just this make) - if you try to turn any hex material, be careful as even though tight to begin with, the vibration (even taking just a sensible light cut) loosens the whole thing - I had one or two disasters until the penny dropped. Just keep checking & re-tightening periodically as required.

regards Mike

Edited By Mike Hurley on 03/02/2022 19:51:37

Thanks for that JohnF, a most enjoyable 1/2 hour!

regards Mike

There you go Dan - sounds like you may be better off getting in the kitchen making Dutch treats, start a thriving business and make your fortune! (Think how many millionairs have started off in such a simple way)

all the best, Mike

If you are talking about BASIC metalworking skills, I would have thought that the very reasonably - priced Workshop Practice series would be another choice. OK, they won't be as detailed or in-depth as EITB manuals, but for the price don't they do cover most things the average chap needs to know?

While the basic principles remain the same, often older manuals / books do refer to outdated practices or even those that we (well some people at least!) now might consider dangerous - which could be something to be considered in your environment.

Just trying to be objective & helpful and in no way trying to criticise.

regards Mike

Welcome to the forum - lots of friendly advice and useful info on here. Your mechanical engineering background and current software knowledge may well offer you opportunities to provide help to other members in the future.

Best of luck getting things set up.

Regards Mike

I agree with Clive. Don't think they are woodturning dog - as he says they are not equidistant from the centre and appear to be adjustable - all wood dogs I've ever used are just on piece. These would appear more suitable for sticking in the tailstock and marking out rings or washers to be cut from stock held in the chuck etc.

regards Mike