Member postings for Steve Richardson 2

Appreciate the responses. looks like I may get an update now. thanks

..(had a response in my inbox tonight thank you)

Having trouble raising a response from TEE regarding an order that has not arrived yet. (ordered in March)

have been emailing [email protected] however no response from multiple emails.

Anyone had recent contact or can suggest what can be done.

Last time I had service like this was from Blackgates and when I put a hold on the payment they blacklisted me. Have had other orders from TEE arrive fine but not this time.

Cheers

Hi All,

Saw a Taylor Hobson Pantograph Model MA for sale - and have to say I haven't seen many like it. Also cant find much about them.

Its looks very compact a little like my 1891 model but much more so and is much less adjustable.

Also doesn't look like it is very adjustable and is maybe set for only one or two ratios.

Thanks Jason and Duncan, appreciate the numbers as I don't have CAD. and how accurate can you get with a pin and card?

due to the nature of the casting I didn't fancy trying to re-machine the boss so have already drilled.

Duncan - don't quite understand re the 0.013 'above the beam pivot' - do you mean the main centre pivot on the beam? otherwise Im not sure what you mean, or how it would be possible to have the entablature pivot above the beam pivot. copy of the drawing may be useful thanks.

thanks for the comments. Also didn't know about that search function on the main page, thanks for that one.

Seems also important for the pivot point for the 'tie' link attachment on the entablature to be in line with the piston rod. seems that way provided the bridle links are same length it keeps things in-line.

Sanderson Beam engine is different to the norm and one example of where the parallel motion is not mounted midway on the beam, so must be configurable for uneven distance.

Recently started a Vulcan beam engine and not having done a beam engine before, but had read a few builds and comments etc.

Drilling the beam - and the bosses for the pivot points were not all positioned well, similar to other builds. - So If drilled as per dimension for mine, the hole for the parallel motion link would not have been centred in the boss. Drawings indicated 1-7/8 equal spaced between centre pivot and end pivot. Parallel motion links are all 1-7/8 including the 'tie' links to the entablature.

After the adjustment to centre the pivot in the boss, dimensions are now 1.910 (end closest to end pivot) and 1.840 from that to the centre pivot.

I assume that lengths of parallel motion links all now need to be the same, at 1.910. I also assume this includes the (tie) links that anchor the parallel motion to the entablature?

Any guidance on this is appreciated.

Thanks Nick

Hi Noel, thanks for your thoughts, that was what I was thinking also, but good to hear it from someone else. looks like the Bonds catalogue confirms it.

Nick - thats fantastic, thanks for those images, looks basically like it and the right brand.

has that Bonds catalogue got a year/date on it?

regards

steve

Edited By Steve Richardson 2 on 20/09/2022 09:11:11

Came across this blow lamp recently, its not large and appears to be quite a few years old. Pressure gauge goes up to 60lb /sq inch and is marked Bassett Lowke - still works quite well.

I assume this is an old model boiler firing blow lamp?

Overall it looks to be quite well made, very solid tank - any thought on how old?

The Burner tube is marked Torrid, but any searches on that didn't come up with much. Appreciate any thoughts.

thanks

I would have assumed the port facing the front is an inlet? (not exhaust?) - and I assume a uniflow would still need an inlet and exhaust? unless theres another port underneath we cant see.

No further history available, this is for sale on that well known online web site, just described as scratch built.

would like to take it part but all I have seen are the pictures online

yes may have a look at Corliss - could be some similarities there

just curious if someone knows how the internal valving on this engine operates? or has plans for something similar

thanks

Hi John,

Is that the only drawing of the split bearings you have?

The dimension I have provided are the ones you are after.The small end bearings have a flange width of 3/8 on my drawing.

Also sure that the bearings for the pump rod are drawn as 5/32 as you have made it.

Cheers

Hi John,

I have plans dated december 1998 from blackgates (that I got from the when they were still talking to me).

The journal on the bean pin on my drawing is 5/16 wide, same as the width of the bearings with flange. total length on pin is 1-1/4.

Not sure if I am following your description for the rest. The small end bearings have a flange width/diameter of 3/8. these are also then split so split width is 3/16. and bottom square half is 5/32. the slot on the fork is 3/16 so should fit in.

cheers

there is a greenly TE at 1.25" for sale now on ebay

Most? VFDs should allow setting two frequencies as the main output (you can then use one or the other - high or low). You can use that to create your two speeds when connected to a 'single speed' 3 phase motor coupled with the original variator - and you then have your variable speed and two speed ranges. This possibly has some power limitations at low frequency - but I have not encountered issues with my lathe that is set up this way.

the other option is If you remove the variator and original two speed motor, and replace with a conventional single speed 3 phase motor connected to a two speed counter shaft/pulley arrangement. this coupled with the VFD, gives two speed ranges plus convenience of variable speed via VFD.

cheers

Edited By Steve Richardson 2 on 11/11/2021 09:48:31

I have a similar set up on my chipmaster and its great.

Id seriously be checking some of the basic settings, particularly your motor parameters in the VFD. Maybe I missed it, but what 'kw' is your VFD rated to 2.2kw ? - thats possibly a bit low.

And I assume your motor is set up in the connection box to 'delta' - output voltage for the phases to the motor needs to be 230v.

I have set up a few of these now and the only time I had problems was when I didn't have some of the basics right. A good manual helps though.

have had a kettle with that exact fail

thanks, well aware of the risks of using air. Will try the hydraulic pressure test once I have a pump and a valve and a few bits to connect it.

Mains pressure as Paul suggests may be an option - at least for a low pressure test.

cheers

for those interested, the boiler and stays hold air quite well. one fitting was more an issue getting sealed than the stays which were no problem at all.