Member postings for john halfpenny

Michael, that's a model 7Y which ran from 37-39. It would have had the spare wheel under a dome on the back. It looks like a later car, because it appears to have no running boards- but it may have been adapted after the deprivations of the war years. If the registration is ARJ, it dates to April 1938.

A very basic car. No water pump, no oil filter, no dynamo charge regulation ( just a cut-out), no fuses, and in most cases no air filter. Vacuum wipers, which cease to work at full throttle, etc,etc.

Terminological exactitude. I think the generic term E93A (a Prefect) was perpetuated by the fondly remembered Cars and Car Conversions mag, which was required reading in my youth. There were rather few of these E93A, in fact. Most common was the 103E Popular (53-59), Britains cheapest car until killed off by the Mini, 105E Anglia and Triumph Herald. This chassis type, in rough chronological order, was used on 7Y, 7W, E04A, E93A, E493A, E494A and 103E.

The correct Ford hub puller works well - if you pull off the studs, it will just bend the flat face of the drum. Whilst the taper may be tight, if a half shaft breaks the hub walks out with the wheel. In the day tow trucks carried a special attachment which could mount the spare wheel for towing. The key to better ride and handling is oil in the dampers - without there is almost no roll resistance with the transverse leaf suspension, hence the reputation.

Torque tube transmission was preferred by Henry for everything from the Model T through to WWII, and afterwards in the UK for the upright models. It was necessary because he relied upon a transverse leaf spring at the rear which could not resist drive torque. BTW, the Armstrong shock absorber and the brake drum  is wrong for a Model Y, so definitely in the 37-59 bracket. The engine is a small Ford sidevalve, and the petrol pump can be seen. The radiator tap is the standard brass type, but the remains have no value.

Edited By john halfpenny on 30/12/2022 08:44:39

It's the chassis from an 8 or 10hp Ford (1937-59). A frame suspension is very noticeable feature.

At the other end of the scale you can compare the ratio of the cost of a common kit (10V?) and the asking price of a finished model on ebay. Probably a maximum of 1:5.

I also have an RDM350. It's a nice compact machine. Interesting to see the spec sheet Kim. I'll use it to assess mine

Actually only this year(finally).

I don't think so Dave. Islandline is now re-engineered overground stock from Vivarail.

Surely for pushing panel pins below the surface after they have been knocked flush, or making a starting hole for a panel pin( if I have understood your description Mike)

Edited By john halfpenny on 18/12/2022 21:35:49

Alan, winter diesel has additives to mitigate against waxing. Summer diesel used in winter conditions will be more likely to solidify - that may be the problem.

Adapters are not ideal but Morse into R8 goes satisfactorily, so you can use what Morse stuff you have. I have an ER32 collet chuck in R8 for my mill, but also use an MT2 Jacobs chuck with adapter sleeve for drilling. Obviously (for milling) you will need to check the drawbar thread is suitable for your chuck of choice, and if necessary make sure it goes through the adapter to engage the chuck directly.

I don't get this thread. Dave W knows there are rules about posting hazardous substances. Nevertheless, he orders such product, and then is not happy that it is delivered . Cakeism? Merry Xmas

Isn't the excessive smearing a function of the tooth shape of the cog, giving a sliding rather than a rolling contact - perhaps the cogs (or some of them) have a lot of wear which has destroyed the ldeal form. I guess the swiss can afford to keep the mating parts in better nick.

This kind of 'why o why' thread always gathers heat (not light) until it is terminated by the moderators. They are easy to identify - might as well stop them early. I've got my tin hat on.

So where would Araldite sit on that list?

These days most cars have a charging module in the battery earth lead between post and body. If you connect directly to the battery earth post, the module is by-passed, which may have some unwanted effects. So the general rule is to connect the earth lead of your charger/ jump lead to an earth point on the engine or body - a specific marked point is typically provided. Live can go directly to the battery post.

No change in thickness of the sheet of paper

The D3 brake light bulb issue is very well known - I suggest you follow the Disco 3 forum. I've just reluctantly parted with my D3 after 17 happy years.