Member postings for Bo'sun

All the usual suspects. Spent hacksaw blades, steel banding from pallet shipments, scrap sheet metal, etc.

I've used a milling slide on my WM250 with good success. But the swapping things around, only to find out that you realy should have completed one more operation before swapping back, convinced me to buy a benchtop mill.

Other considerations with a milling slide attachment are lack of travel and general visibility.

Thanks Jason.

As they say, the simple solutions are sometimes the best. "Can't see the wood for the trees" and all that. I should get enough threads for M6.

Thanks Dave.

HI ndiy,

By blank I meant with no hole, so I could drill and tap for an M6 stud.

Good morning,

Yes, I know I can make them, but I'd rather be model making than tool making.

I want to use an M6 clamping stud in a M8 tee nut. I had considered loctiting a piece of M8 stud in the tee nut and re-taping it M6, but with an M8 core dia of 6.5mm, I thought it would be a bit too close.

So, can I buy M8 blank tee nuts?

Thank you JD2.

Good morning Stuart,

I have just taken delivery of a new WM16B and wish to fit a DRO. However, the base is a square shape rather than the tapered shape of Warco's other similar machines. Although Warco's website offers the WM16B with a DRO, their guide to fitting a DRO only shows the Y axis encoder on a tapered base. I'm waiting a reply from Warco about the Y axis DRO on a WM16B.

Hope this makes sense.

I'd be surprised if Mamod are still trading. Children with fire and burny stuff. Perish the thought!

I look forward to seeing the completed rebuild William.

At our Scout Campsite we used a sliding chop saw with a blade with the least amount teeth we could find, slow feed and a little WD40 to cut 150mm x 50mm recycled plastic to make some benches. I think the large tooth gullet stopped the blade binding and getting too hot.

Hope this helps.

Thank you Thor,

That's just the sort of thing I had in mind. Just need to get my head around the "% machinability index".

While vaguely relating to this thread, has anyone come across a "succinct" comparison chart of commonly used steels in model engineering with EN numbers, properties, machinability, etc, and cross reference to current specification numbers.

Andrew Whale (Learning Turning Metal) often uses superglue to good effect for temporarily holding small parts. Clean, well fitting joints with the largest surface area you can is the key.

Best stock up on it, typewriters are probably a thing of the past.

More correctly the "Union Flag" I believe.

Thank you all,

It cuts easily with Gilbow tin snips, so I'll treat it as a relatively low carbon steel for small brackets and shims, etc.

You're probably right old mart, the blueing is likely only there to give some corrosion resistance while it's in storage and then in transit.

I've saved some steel banding (minus the bent and mangled bits) from a couple of machine tools I've had delivered. It seemed a shame to throw it away. I've heard it mentioned as being "spring steel". Is that true? I guess there's different grades depending on it's use

An interesting video Andy, although it did go on a bit and was perhaps a little over the top. But some surprising results none the less.

Thank you Derek,

It looks like you have the WM18 mill. Not that it makes any difference, because I suspect all of the tables will end up at the same height.

Thank you John & Dave, some food for thought. I'll go and have a twiddle in the privacy of my workshop.