Does anyone want this part? It came with a box of stuff and I have no idea from what model it relates to, but it's quite big and quite heavy.

It's free to anyone who wants it and can either collect or pay postage. I live near to Spalding.

Is that one of these?

Lost for ideas on this one. 1.5" sq maybe.

The base of this retracts against a spring. Again very well made.

The square piece with the circles cut into it?

The forked jobby I believe is for the change wheels, but as I have the QC gear box it's not needed unless it's for the metric conversion (don't think so). I believe I have another bit that goes with the forked jobby somewhere.

Is that one a Keats chuck? Trying to find how best to use it on Youtube, but seems no one uses it these days?

And this one, think it fits to a face plate.

Another thingy, the base of each one is magnetic.

Edited By martin cross 1 on 29/07/2023 09:56:50

Edited By martin cross 1 on 29/07/2023 09:57:48

I got some more stuff which I'm not sure about. Just need to get a pic, will be in touch.

I like that, I like that a lot. It's so nicely made that I intend to keep it for the odd occasion which it will be put to use. Saves taking the piece out of the lathe and setting up the mill.

My thanks to everyone for the quick response. Everyday is a learning day.

I was thinking along the lines of something to center work in a 4 jaw or something to do with loco wheels. How far out I was.

I have acquired a box of stuff for the Myford and within the box was this rather nice looking device. Well made and seems to do its stuff, but what is it for and what does it do?

Any help appreciated

I got one

One formula I've tried is 'Die Blank Size is the Major Diameter less 10% of the Pitch', and this is on a quite well known engineering web site it even works it out for. However, it's too big a diameter. I must admit that the dies are foreign and a few years old, but I do have it the correct way round with the start taper at the bottom.

I can't use 10mm stock as the thread is the final part of a bigger bit of metal.

Is there anyone out there who can give a simple answer to a simple question? Is there a formula or method by which you can determine the bar diameter required for a given thread size, by this I mean turn a length of bar on a lathe to a pre determined diameter such that when you place the die on it to cut the thread, it happens. I've searched high and low on the net, YT etc and had various methods put before me, I've then gone and turned to a diameter using the method described and each time the diameter is too big. The mic I use is good for half a thou so I'm pretty sure diameters are correct, I even put a nice taper at the start. So, can anyone out there unlock the box? Please.

All I want is an M10 x 1.25 on a bit of bar, by hand.

You can never have enough lighting and with that in mind I pinched an idea from Andy Whale and his lighting for the mill quill and transposed it onto my pedestal drill. Is 12v so no risk and lights up on start up and has an over ride for setting up if needed.

One improvement still to make, is a shroud to stop glare.

Made a huge difference and being LED should last eons. More pics of it in action and wiring in the album.

I did get the box of tricks from World of Ward, the stepper, controller and other stuff from fleabay, I also used Andrew Whale's YT build as a good guide with a few changes. All in all once I got the courage to start it wasn't that difficult. Probably the hardest part was getting a box big enough for the power supply and stepper driver to be together. That now resides fitted to the wall of the man cave out of the way.

I also found Steve Ward extremely helpful and quick to come back with answers to questions.

Yes, that's how I approached it. I have a box of carbide boring bits which I bought off fleabay donkeys years ago when you could get stuff real cheap. The boring tool is around 4mm in dia and sits in a DA collet in the mill spindle, setting up is the longest part with the actual 'work' taking maybe 10mins tops. The depth of cut was around 8 thou and length was set by using the table stops for each grouping.

Hopefully the picture explains it better, like most people I used YT to see how others do it and went from there.

Having not long ago completed my stepper driven indexing device care of WoW, I was keen to give it a try. My ML10 dials are somewhat faded and dated and non 'zeroable' so with that in mind I decided to have a practice at doing some graduations on a bit of scrap. No point in going further until I know both the device and myself know what we're doing.

I decided to do it on the Centec as there's more room and the indexer can be bolted to the bed. The arbor removed and a collet chuck in the MT2 with a carbide boring tool I set about making some marks.

First time round round was x10 long ones, second was middling ones and then the shorties. I jumped each existing digit as I came to it. To my surprise it all happened as it should have and with a bit of tidying up looks pretty good for a first attempt. Just got to sort out the numbers now.

I'm looking to fit a stepper motor to my horizontal mill table and wondering if anyone has any experience of setting up an LCD to monitor table speed/motor RPM. There's plenty of stuff on YT using aduino, which you have to code; I was wondering if there was a simpler way using a Stepper Motor Driver Controller PWM Pulse Signal Generator Speed Regulator thingy connected to a stepper driver? If not then I'll probably forget the RPM part, it was just that once knowing what is a good table speed is it can be reproduced as and when needed.