Member postings for Gavlar

I read a recommendation (I can't remember where) for this chap;

www.thatlazymachinist.com/free-training.html

He has uploaded 100+ video tutorials, aimed at the beginner.

I cannot personnaly recommend him, at least not yet. I've only watched the first few videos on shop safety but it might be a useful resource.

Hi Nick,

sorry for the slow response, I've not been on the forum for a few days. Message me your email and I'll forward the manual.

I could carry on using the carbide for rough cuts, it's just that the TT seemed to move more material with less effort and a better finish than anything else I've tried.

I'll experiment with grooves in the tool over the next couple of days.

Thanks all.

I've had my lathe several years now, I am untrained, reletively inexperienced and have no real idea about sharpening HSS. As such, I've been using indexable tooling with varying results.

A recent thread here prompted me to order the Eccentric Engineering 'Diamond' tangential tool, which appealed to me because of the apparent ease of sharpening.

Having set the tool up, and turning a test piece of free cutting steel at various speeds, feeds and depths of cut I'm getting excellent results. I'm pleasently surprised by how much metal I can remove in one pass and the excellent quality of the finish.

Problem is, I'm getting ribbons instead of chips regardless of what I change, Clearly not ideal as I'm having to frequently stop and clear the birdsnest that's formed.

I do use cutting fluid but flow cooling, whilst possible, is not really practicle.

The cutting tool is ground flat as shown in EE's video so is it a matter of changing the profile of the tool or do I need to do something else?

Thanks, Gavin.

Hi Steven, the problem was solved 15 months ago!!

I ended up removing the whole quill assembly and taking it to a local welder. (I don't weld) He filled the end of the reducer with weld to facilitate knocking it out with a rod down the quill. He gave it a tap whilst it was still hot and it popped out. No damage and no ill effects.

Facebook marketplace is awash with scams and scammers. I've given up reporting them, there are just too many. It's about time companies like Facebook were held to account, it's their platform, they know it goes on and yet they seem to do nothing about it.

Boxfords prices for spares are usually out of date, Parts are frequently no longer stocked even if the site suggests they are available, they are plus vat and plus P&P.

That being said, they have helped me out in the past, even once sending me small low value items FOC!

Yes, they are D1-3.

If you search ebay for 'pallet truck wheels' it will come up with wheels very similar with solid tyres and reletively high load ratiings at a reasonable price.

Example; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162999377535?hash=item25f3851e7f:g:EPgAAOSwgoNeYh24

I bought a pair just for this very purpose, to make a dolly for moving a heavy lathe single handed.

If it's a digital version of the older style rotary converters, then you won't need one for each machine so long as the total power consumption of the machines running at any one time are within the limits of the converter.

The advantages would appear to be no messing about or rewiring of your three phase machinery, only needing to buy one for your entire workshop.

The dissadavantage as I see it would be price and not being able to customise control for individual machines as you could if each had it's own VFD.

There is no definitive answer to that question.

In my limited experience, price depends on age, condition, ancilliary equipment, your ability (or not) to collect and luck.

The one I mentioned in your previous thread sold today on ebay for £1900, which was a steal. I have seen them on ebay for even less though one dealer on there is currently asking over £6K for one. I think if you are prepared to wait for the right one, prepared to travel and have the wherewithall to collect yourself, you could get change from £2K. If you can't collect or arrange collection yourself, you will tend to be at the mercy of the dealers and the price will likely be higher.

Local roads are paid for with local taxes, your community charge. Cyclists pay community charge but do next to no damage to the roads. So surely, I'm 'doing my bit' by cycling and I should recieve a tax rebate, funded by higher car taxes??

The measurements for the 280

Actual footprint is 1150 x 460

Overall length is 1200 and overall depth from the to rear of the splashback is 800

Height to the top of the headstock is 1200

There are a couple of different base styles across the range which might effect the measurements and. I think (but don't quote me) the 280 is the same length as the 10-20 and 11-20 with the 10-30 and 11-30 being 10 inches longer.

'You-engraving' is still supplying delrin gears. I got a set from him only a couple of weeks ago and he is still advertising on ebay.

Have you tried contacting him through ebay rather than email?

According to the X10 manual, they weigh between 365 and 385 kg, dependent on bed length. I'm not sure of the weight of the ME10, I seem to remember that on the proper base they are approaching 300 kg, but don't quote me. The X10 is not a lot more difficult to strip for transport than the earlier models.

Edited By Gavlar on 01/01/2022 23:31:54

I currently have an Boxford ME10 and a Boxford 280. in my workshop.

The X10 range outclasses the 3565 range by a country mile.

The X10 range is not much larger physically but has a bigger spindle bore, a bigger motor, greater swing, has a gear head and apart from the training lathes, an excellent gearbox. They have 6 or 9 (and possibly 12?) speeds depending on model. Mine was missing the changegears but a full delrin set can be had from ebay for about £60. They all come with 100/127 compound gear as standard. D1-3 spindle nose is (IMHO) far better than threaded. Whilst some sellers seem to hold out for silly money, they can be had for less than the cost of a decent AUD. There is currently one on ebay, well equiped with 3 and 4 jaw chucks, what appears to be a full set of changes gears and QCTP that has just been relisted as it didn't sell for the £2000 asking price.

One thing to beware of, the X10 range was never as popular as the 3565 range so whilst they are pretty bomb proof, if you do manage to break something you will struggle to buy replacement parts. If you need steadies, buy one that already has them, you will be very lucky to find any for sale and the few I have seen sellers ask silly money.

Just my tuppence worth,

I've had two expensive Mitsubishi VFDs that have failed. One secondhand one and I don't know it's background or history, and one new one that failed after about five years, though given the environment it was in, maybe that wasn't too bad.

I've also had several of the cheap, no name ones from Ebay and Amazon. They are occasionaly on offer on Amazon and I've had 2.2kw units for as little as £35 iirc, though they have recently gone up a lot. I've fitted these to my own lathe as well as other peoples and am yet to have one fail. An external control box can be made for the cost of a couple of switches, a relay and a pot, if you know what you are doing and/or take the time to experiment as the instructions are not that great. These cheap units don't have all the functions of the Mitsubishis, but they are being used to drive lathe motors, and for the most part, speed and direction is all one needs to control.

The proprietry suppliers may supply a better quality product and they would certainly be the route to go if you are not competent and confident enough to go the diy route but at six times the price, I'll stick with the cheap units.

TUD - (Training) No lead screw, no powerfeed in either direction

CUD - Has a lead screw, power feed in one direction, no gearbox, screwcutting by way of changegears.

BUD - As CUD but power feed in both directions.

AUD - As BUD but with a gearbox.

Boxford themselves are not very good for spares, they have a very limited and ever diminishing supply. Their prices on their spares site are high, out of date, plus vat and plus post. Seller 'RELTUB34' on ebay makes cross slide and compound slide nuts in both imperial and metric. He will make to order if what you want is not currently listed.

I have in the past put a cut in a cross slide nut and squeezed it together to eliminate backlast as a stop gap measure.

Edited By Gavlar on 26/12/2021 18:52:10

Do you have an account with STM microelectronics?

If not, then it is a scam. If yes and you used a link in the original email, then it's a scam as Emgee has explained.

If you have passed your details to a fake site, particularly if you use only one password for multiple sites, like many do, then change your other passwords, now!

If you do have an account with STM microelectronics and they have your credit card details, might be worth contacting your card company and canceling the card.