Member postings for AJAX

Dave, I have one of those old Century motors. Repulsion start, induction run. When they get going, the brushes disengage from the commutator and it runs like a regular induction motor. Quite exciting when it starts up! This will be one of my future restoration projects as it needs a really good clean from the previous owners.

I just discovered the "BEC" most likely stands for B. Elliot and Company Ltd.

Link

I found this serial number (?) on the drill table when cleaning it up. Would anyone happen to know if it's a serial number and whether it would help date the machine? Or maybe it's an asset number of a previous owner?

BEC 53564-8

Brian

Here's another photo to give you an idea of where I'm now up to. You may note the switch cover is on the incorrect side (there's a similar sized cover blanking panel on the other side) but it happens to fit that way better and I won't be reusing the switch to control the motor, even though the switch is still in surprisingly good condition. I still haven't decided what motor to fit and I'm even toying with the idea of fitting an intermediate pulley to step the speeds down. The "arc of shame" has been filled with JB Weld and I'm quite happy with the result.

I have 4 WEG vfd units and I can't fault them. They are high quality, easy to wire up and include comprehensive user manuals. The price is good too. No need to oversize them.

Yes, I think so. Hopefully my kids will want to keep it one day.

Paragon enamel gloss, "Boxford Smoke Grey"

I originally bought one litre to repaint a Boxford lathe (hence the choice of colour) but then had enough to repaint a table saw, small milling machine, and now this bench drill. It is expensive paint, but does seem to go a long way.

Great shame that you lost a vital part. Why not try to sell it on eBay or offer it here? There are lots of people (including myself) who enjoy a challenge at resurrecting an old machine.

Bearing in mind the castings are not smooth (I removed the filler when stripping the paint) I was quite happy to apply a brushed finish. I realise that I could have applied a filler and sanded down first but I'm lazy...

Most parts have now been cleaned up and repainted and it shouldn't be long before it's all reassembled. The spindle and rack mechanism was in perfect condition, and apart from a couple of screws and knobs that I need to make there's not much else left to do. I will of course need to fit a motor but there's no rush as I already have a perfectly serviceable pillar drill.

The castings were painted using Hammerite red oxide primer (inside and out) and Paragon enamel paint. I had to thin the enamel paint using white spirit as I was down to the gloopy dregs from another job, but it seems to be just fine.

Bob, if you can PM me your email address I'll forward you a quote I received by email.

Brian

I'm a sucker for old lathes, any lathes, actually!

You mention "big solid stand" -- I'd just want to check that you can get it home as even fairly small but solid things can be difficult to shift.

I would be somewhat concerned about the collets. It may include many collets, but does it include the ones you will need? Just for reference, I was recently quoted £82 each + postage for collets to be made.

Here's mine, fitted with a Brook Crompton 1/2 HP 3-phase motor.

I paid about £200 for the drill in full working order. All I had to do was fit a VFD + control panel. I removed the machine lamp + transformer with the intention of refitting it one day but have not found the need.

I find the slotted table and low-speed back gear very useful. The VFD makes it very easy to use and I rarely change the pulleys.

I'm another owner of a QDM 750, but mine is the floor standing model with a workshop warning stating gear changes by authorized users only, or something to that effect.

For my use, price seems to be the biggest and possibly only difference. I will continue using white spirit to clean brushes and if I'm tempted to try spraying (not likely at the moment due to lack of space) then I'd try white spirit too.

I'd like an Ajax unit -- it would go with my forum nickname.

Capacitors are easy enough to replace, and if it still has the original one then it's probably about time.

Thanks Dave, that's useful information. Looking at the details (below) it would seem that white spirit could slow things down a bit. But that wouldn't be problem for me.

Touch dry:- 2 Hours. Firm dry:- 6 Hours. Hard dry:- 12 Hours, @ 20ºC.

I'm hoping that someone with some knowledge of paints and thinners can offer their opinion.

I have used Paragon Paints enamel paint on two or three recent projects. I have brushed (not sprayed) and cleaned up using white spirit without difficulty.

In their instructions, they state that we must use their own brand PT8 synthetic thinners.

"Please do not make the mistake of using cellulose or other types of thinners with our enamels, this is not a cellulose thinners and is manufactured specifically for the Paragon range of enamel paints."

However, I have checked the MSDS datasheet for PT8 thinners and white spirit and they appear to contain the same substance.

CAS No.: 64742-88-7

Unless you can tell me a reason to do otherwise, I will continue to use white spirit for cleaning and thinning for spraying (if the need arises). As you might guess, white spirit is much cheaper.

• PT8 thinners (1L for £9.18)
• White spirit (2L for £3.99 from a well-known store)

I left the paint stripper on overnight and it has softened, but not enough to allow easy scraping/brushing off. I have applied another coat (I don't expect it to make much difference) but also contacted a local shot blasting company to request a quote. Does anyone have a rough idea how much this would cost? £50 - £80 is my guess but I could be way off.

I cleaned up the column (very heavy!) and two step pulleys.