Member postings for AJAX

Continuing from my post above (suggesting a resettable fuse could be considered), here is an example showing trip characteristics from a randomly sampled datasheet:

Most NVR switches that I encounter in cheap drills, sanders, etc. have no overload protection. They are simply latching switches that go off when the power source is interrupted. Good quality DOL starters incorporate a thermal overload (settable to the full load current) and latching relay. But as you rightly say they are not particularly cheap.

An affordable improvement on the NVR only option is to add a thermal circuit breaker. I have previously encountered one of these on a fairly expensive router / trimmer.

thermal circuit breakers (RS components)

How about turning an adapter (tapered bore onto plain shaft) then using a single groove pulley? It might get you going until something better comes along.

A tapered bore makes it much less likely anyone will have a suitable pulley. I have have one pulley with a tapered bore but it is undersized and lacks enough meat to be bored out to your required size. In any case, you'd also need to specify the taper dimension.

Funnily enough I had to tighten one of those screws in a power supply today. I made it slightly less loose using a pair of pliers. If I had more time (and this may be your best / cheapest solution) I would have taken a straight bladed screwdriver and ground a vee in the blade. I think it should should work well enough for a one-off.

Alternatively, is this the same screw type found on Gameboys, etc.? If so, the correct tool can be purchased cheaply.

I won't be the only one here with a large box of spare step pulleys. If you specify some more details I might be inclined to see what I've got. Let's start with the bore size, number of steps and belt section size.

The hinge or cover?

That would be my preferred option but there is no obvious place to mount such a hinge on my model c. Maybe I need to fit a plate to the outboard end of the headstock first.

Thanks for the photo, Clive. I hadn't considered clamping anything there. And by the look of it, the cover must be hinged elsewhere to support the swinging weight?

Could someone with a Boxford Model C lathe post some photos showing how their change gear cover is attached to the lathe? I have the lathe and end cover, but the lathe came to me partly dismantled with no clear method of fixing the cover to the headstock. There are a couple of screw holes but no sign of a hinge or bracket to hold the cover in position. I'm guessing it was screwed into position with a fixed bracket or two (now missing), which would have made gear changes very inconvenient. I'm quite open to fabricating an entirely new / non-original arrangement if it improves on the original design.

But not at that price.

I saw one for sale locally not so long ago. Full working order. About £200 if I remember correctly. Fortunately, the weight and lack of space stopped me from buying.

Jak2g,

My Eagle surface grinder came with a 440V motor that was hard wired star configuration. After a test run using a 240V VFD I stripped the motor down and dug out the star point from the windings. I then rewired in Delta configuration. It was a relatively quick and easy job.

I'm not the only one to have done this. Whereabouts are you? Someone may be able to assist.

There is a listing on eBay. 4 x Vintage Disston D8 saws for £40, including postage.

Chris, I've sent you a message. It should be in your Inbox.

This might be of interest

https://www.freemotorlegal.co.uk/

Edited By AJAX on 15/06/2022 22:10:58

Received a renewal reminder from RAC Car Insurance this week.

Last year's total = £115.25

Renewal price = £213.39 !!!!!!!!!

I tried to cancel online but was unable to do so. You can renew online (with no interaction) but to cancel you have to contact a customer representative.

I've changed insurer.

Zenith Insurance. Fully comprehensive. £0 voluntary excess. £109.54

Yes, wire wheel on an angle grinder. The surface rust cleaned of easily. It was then wiped over with an oily rag (hence the slightly gloss finish) as I have no plans to repaint it now. I did one small repair/modification to make the quick release work correctly, and I will make some jaws when some suitable scraptonium comes my way. For now, it's just sitting under a bench.

I'm another owner of a Fortis Steel vice (pictures coming soon...) and although I cleaned it up a while back I don't recall there being any paint to remove. And mine is "Ministry of Supply - Property of HM Government" if that helps indicate the age.

The "motor date" probably refers to the British Standard, bss170:1939 and not the date of manufacture.