Member postings for AJAX

I don't think that would help, would it? I have FFP3 masks and filters for particulates and vapours, but they won't filter the gas.

I rather suspect that would make it an expensive build. My other trailer (now almost 50 years old) seems to have done okay without a zinc coating.

Based on some of the comments here, plus what I've now read online, I will probably opt for mechanical fixings rather than weld anything on. I remember gas-cutting galvanized tubing in a milking parlour as a young man, and I'm still alive today, not to say that is an endorsement of the practice!

I have the chassis of an old trailer tent that I intend to re-purpose as a multi-functional trailer for my own use. The chassis is in good condition and is mostly constructed from U-section galvanized steel. All my previous fabrication projects have used plain mild steel.

Some of my modifications / add-ons will require securing to the chassis. Can I bolt and/or weld mild steel fabrications to the chassis or will this be problematic? I'm thinking of various connectors for removable sides, mudguard supports, ladder/kayak rack, tie down points, etc. I would also like to reinforce the frame in a couple of places. I presume it's good practice to grind off any galvanized first when welding, but please correct me if I am wrong. If I do weld mild steel to the galvanized frame, what finish should be applied?

Would it be okay to fabricate some parts from mild steel, apply an appropriate paint, and then bolt to the galvanized steel frame? In this situation, are galvanized fixings required or preferred?

I should probably mention the trailer will be stored outside covered by a tarpaulin.

Was that a BT cordless phone by any chance? I had exactly the same problem when I changed batteries but when I prised the spring clips out a bit it was enough to make good contact. Alternatively I could have bought the BT approved/branded replacements instead at an inflated price.

Update - my phone uses AAA and not AA batteries.

I have the impression, perhaps incorrectly, the lock-on type switch is banned in the USA.

I dropped an angle grinder fitted with a knotted wire brush once. Switch was locked on. Now that was "fun".

The thing I like about swarfega is I can use it in the workshop without access to a sink and wipe my hands fairly clean and dry before returning to the house where I can wash them properly without making the sink filthy.

Well I used shampoo and now don't have any hair. Who is making the greatest savings?

Tracks lifting off with heat - sounds like a typical problem with beginner soldering to me.

The switches are square, but the pin layout is not. It's therefore generally difficult to place them incorrectly in a PCB.

Mike, I sketched this for you - I hope it helps.

Bear in mind that even a "failed project" is not a waste of time. It's all a learning experience.

Another thing I should mention is the jaws are numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4. The chuck is similarly marked with centre-punched dots.

I have an independent 4 jaw chuck sitting on my workbench not being used. It looks vintage and has no maker's name. The jaws "fit" and appear to be from a set (all marked 171) but I am unable to say if they are original.

The problem with this chuck is the jaws do not close parallel with each other. A superficial glance suggests bell-mouthing through wear but on closer inspection the inner faces of the chuck jaws show they are in excellent condition - they still show the original machining.

The "slides" in the chuck body look good as do the screws. The jaws have minimal slop in their respective slides.

I could make a ring to hold all 4 jaws in position and then grind their internal faces. I have previously done this with a 3 jaw scroll chuck but never needed nor thought I would need to do this with an independent chuck.

Any suggestions before I attempt a fix?

I'd rather not use one of those dodgy websites. I'll see if I can find someone with an old licence code they are no longer using. If it works, I'll only use it once then delete the o/s anyway.

I already have a cheap machine running XP, but I was hoping to use something more up to date. I'm also interested in seeing if I can run a firmware update, but to do that it seems that I need Windows 7, maybe.

That's an idea. Something I should have thought about myself. I wonder if the virtual xp will have access to the USB port for printing. I may give it a try.

I have acquired a very nice Roland CNC engraving / milling machine that is in mint condition and works without fault. It is maybe 15 years old. I have the CAD/CAM software and a 32 bit driver but am currently limited to using Windows XP only. The driver is Win XP / Vista / Windows 7 compatible and I have instructions from the reseller to install on a 64 bit operating system (the instructions, unfortunately, do not work at present). Elsewhere on the internet I have found instructions to perform a firmware update to a fully 64-bit system but the update appears to require Windows 7.

I am presently stuck using Windows XP (because I have a copy) and cannot progress to using Windows 10 (which I have running and licenced on more than one machine). Windows 7 is available to download from Microsoft with a suitable product / licence code which I do not have. There is no option to purchase a code from Microsoft.

Basically, I need to install Windows 7 (32 bit), perform the firmware update, and then remove Windows 7. I'd rather not purchase some fake codes from eBay. Any suggestions?

NetScape Navigator anyone?

But seriously, Edge or Chrome should be just fine. Whichever one you are using, select your preferred search engine rather that accept a default.

The threads looked like they were inserts brazed in. Not to worry anyway as all fixed for now, and if I decide to replace it may be with new imports from Oz.

If using eBay to judge prices, make sure that you refer to some prices and not unrealistically high asking or best offer prices. Good luck.