Member postings for DiogenesII

Your starting point will be to determine the pitch of the leadscrew, all else follows from that..

..and I've had good product and service from A M Philpott in Luton..

A M Philpott Hard Chrome Plating

Is that a Lime Hawk, Nick?

A thin bronze bush stretched over a shaft is unlikely to stay in place for long - it will expand as it heats up and loosen.

- can't you either

- fit a thin steel sleeve and re-adjust the current bearing / /housing to accommodate it.

- reduce the shaft end and fit a sleeve to bring it back to std. dia.,

- or build it up and grind it back as a reconditioner would do..

Drill and tap a new hole in the base of the other 'compartment' of the lighter which would enable a better fitting to be employed in order to connect it to another canister possessing a more useful outlet fitting

Edited By DiogenesII on 12/07/2023 18:54:19

Privet Hawk? ..I think Elephant are usually quite a bright green & pink, and the dark bars on these wings look distinctive.

..but I could be wrong, there are a lot of them and I think migrant blow-ins also turn up..

Richard Roberts built those mills in the first decade of the 1800's, remarkably early for the (non-mining-parts-of-the) westcountry..

..don't know how old that particular gear is, don't suppose there was a foundry name on it?

The 125mm spindle flange has a 'standard' 95mm register with three- and four-hole bolt circles on a 108mm pcd., so a wide range of chucks and fittings will go straight on..

..you have mail.

Edited By DiogenesII on 08/07/2023 08:06:16

..not sure what your Sieg gibs are like, but the 'on / off' adjustment that you describe can sometimes be due to adjusters or locking screws having raised a bit of a bruise on the back of the gib strip which subsequently interferes with the nose of the screw if the gib drags a bit or moves slightly.. ..intelligent dressing with a fine file sometimes helps.

Another cause can be if gibs end up dragging an edge along in the corner of the dovetail - again, I don't know if this applies to Sieg, but it can give difficult adjustment if present..

I really like mine - chosen for more-or-less the same reasons as you outline above.

I discarded the capscrews for the chucks and use studs with nuts - whilst it is slightly more of a fiddle to fit nuts than simply screw a chuck on, having a 'reverse' capability is one of those things that one finds uses for once you have it;

..and like so many manual things, one's body and brain soon 'remember' the action after a while and it becomes less of a trial..

Also the register (on mine) is a creditable fit which means that once the chuck is located on it, it only takes pressure from the side of one's thumb to stop it falling off until the first nut is started (- by which I mean that one doesn't have to support the full weight of it whilst starting the nuts).

There are some gaps in the Imperial threads, I don't use them much so haven't analysed the possibilities, but the 'box is driven by (supplied) translation gears in a train on studs on a banjo, so I think if you can't find an approximation by mixing/matching/juggling some of the gears and internal ratios, I don't think it would be to hard to lash-up a couple of phenolic gears - they are Mod.1 - at least that is my plan if I ever get stumped..

I originally thought it would be the thread cutting capability that I'd find to be the best thing about the 'box, but as far as day to day lathework goes, it is of course having a decent range of selectable finefeeds - what a revelation.. ..well, it was to me, anyway..

Although feed actuation is independent of screw-cutting, the functions 'share' a shaft, i.e. drive is by sliding key in a slot in the leadscrew, not a dedicated shaft of it's own.

I think in more general terms, as a size-for-size replacement for a 7, and where size is a limiting factor, it'd be hard to beat - it is nice to use, quick, clean, convenient, and I like the controls.

Pictures of legend plates and gear train in my album 'GH600', if you want to know anything further just ask..

Is it Westbury's? ..did ?Blackgates used to do it? ..or Reeves ..I can still 'see' the line-drawn ad that used to run in ME/?MEW

*up until a few weeks ago Reeves still had the Workshop Tools drawings up, but now they've gone..

Edited By DiogenesII on 01/07/2023 12:01:01

This type are usually better if you have room to fit them;

Clarke Bearing Splitter

..other suppliers are available!

..and some heat always works wonders..

Edited By DiogenesII on 01/07/2023 07:03:43

Just out of curiosity, how 'workmanlike' is the cable and strain relief?

Maybe the blower /catalyst statement is just marketing speak, if you are going to make a 'green' engine you cannot oil it by total-loss, it has to re-circulated, and if if it has to be compact and look 'clean' under a modern bonnet you will want to wet-sump it - and if you cannot squeeze the charge under the pistons you need a blower - maybe they just think this is too long-winded and prosaic to explain to customers..

..'though all this will have occurred to you already maybe, Niels..?

Edited By DiogenesII on 30/06/2023 06:36:33

..because unburnt fuel / oil in catalyst can cause damage from exothermic reaction, maybe?

Total scavenge is necessary?

Dropped a 75mm long, 50mm dia. finned cylinder, hogged out of a M/S billet onto the corner of an angle-iron workshop dolly as I was giving it a last clean-down. How we laughed..

If you mount it at the back with the tool upside down, and run the lathe forward as normal, you are pulling the tool through the work towards you while the rotation is trying to push it up and out - you will see that this is a much better strategy than trying to push it with a screw, whilst the rotation is trying to drag it in and under.. .. .. especially if your lathe is not so young anymore..

Because the tool will be mounted upside down with the tip on centreline, there is no limit to blade depth other than what you can find to hold the desired width of insert.

All you really need is a substantial lump of steel or iron to hold a blade in the right position, firmly, at the back of the cross slide..

Edited By DiogenesII on 21/06/2023 20:29:53

There is a usefully detailed pdf of the Warco DRO Installation guide available in the public domain which you can find at;

https://www.primadilna.cz/fotky49990/fotov/_ps_3044Warco-DRO-Install-Manual.pdf

(..it is a 'safe' / bona fide Czech Engineering suppliers site..)

..the instructions are clear and will enable you to see what is involved, and might give you a feel of what will be required to carry out successful installation yourself.

When you mount work in a 3-jaw like that, there's only one jaw 'driving' the workpiece round (the one at '5 o'clock' ).

If you use a single point tool to make an aggressive cut, say if cutting a rebate from the centre out, when that jaw gets to '10 o'clock', the cutting forces will be pushing it away from it's partner at '6 o'clock'', whilst the jaw on the short side will actually be trying to eject it.. ..you can see what could happen.. ..be careful..

Sometimes for work like that you can turn just one of the jaws in a 4-Jaw round to hold the 'long' end; maybe someone has a picture?

Edited By DiogenesII on 19/06/2023 07:37:56

Edited By DiogenesII on 19/06/2023 07:38:18

..of only it was a square with corners..