Member postings for Chris V

Good evening all,

I need to make a couple of tight 90 degree bends in 3/8" round steel bar.

Heat source to warm it up will have to be all I have, a couple of butane/propane mix gas lamps from the DIY store.

Out of the two, EN1A or EN8 which would be best to use, or is there nothing to speak of in it?

The parts are replacements for a turnbuckle tensioning device for bench countershaft. One end of each will be threaded, probably after bending.

Edited By Chris V on 24/05/2020 17:16:33

Thank you for your replies. The burner was designed for Kerosene which I understand is the same as Paraffin.

I mistakenly first tried the engine with Meths which smoked & smelled, and did not give out as much heat as Paraffin that I have been advised will do. Further advise was to get white Paraffin as this is the cleanest burning, but as mentioned not going out limits what one can obtain, so mail ordered from the description I have supposedly got clean burning 'lamp' oil.

The retailer has got back to me and suggested the wick may be exposed too much,.... with no mechanism for adjusting that I had not thought about that!

I will try trimming the wick tomorrow to see if that helps.

Cheers

Chris.

Well an update on this is now due. After the last fuel tips as we could not go out I ordered some paraffin off the internet, this never arrived. The company I ordered from are apparently so busy they have disconnected the phone lines, and they don't respond to email. So that's why the delay in updating. Eventually I got fed up and ordered some off eBay which is apparently smokeless & odorless, with good feedback on the oil. It dosen't actually say on the bottle it is Paraffin, I should say that. But sold specifically for indoor oil lamps. As the Meths I was using was in the burner & wick I left the caps off for a couple of days so it no longer smelt, the idea being it would have evaporated by the time the new fuel arrived.

So today I fueled the burner and lit it with the new stuff, boy does it smoke! Much worse than Meths...

So finally my question is do you think the new fuel is combining with residue Meths to create the smoke, or is this most unlikely in which case the new fuel is no good?

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you Nigel Graham 2 & Clive, yes that's clearer now in my mind!

Chris.

Hi Clive, what book is the GHT design in please?

Chris.

Drummond/Myford M Type original parts sought.

Good afternoon all. I have come to realise I'm missing the original 4 way tool post conical packer and ball handle. Whilst I'm very keen to mainly use the Norman toolpost holder I'm aiming to keep the lathe as complete and original as possible. Whilst I'm at it also a Vee pulley block for the headstock, which I understand is identical to the one on the countershaft.

Its another long shot but if anyone has these parts that they are willing to part with I would be very interested?

Cheers

Chris.

So there's two in the club, my memberships still pending!

Hope to join you in that special club sometime before too long !

Thanks for your input hope it was tapered 😊

Chris.

Brilliant that's really fascinating. I was really after a Drummond badged one but seems like I got closer than I thought.

This one was only a mile away from home and had been there for the last 40 or so years.

Thank you very much for the info! Oh yes sent you a PM too.

Chris.

Thanks Howard, is that what the pair of locknuts are for on mine?

Cheers

Chris.

Hi Geoff,

Yes Tracy tools & GLR I have found to be excellent.

In answer to why I admire the taper pin method, it is the same as why I now have the M, I love the look and build quality of old machinery. I asked a chap on Instagram whose work I greatly admire about how he fixes his turned handles to their threaded stems, his reply was just screw it in tight, or use super glue if you like. Well yes that would work and be FAR simpler than a taper pin, but wheres the satisfaction in that!? I'd rather learn a little of the old ways I admire than lots of quick fixes. That said I have no engineering training so as and when I have a go at taper pins and possibly mess up...who knows super glue may look more attractive! (-:

No plans to remove anything on my lathe right now, once I gather bits for the counter shaft it seems a better idea to see if it all works ok!

Chris.

Brilliant, many thanks to all, I recon I know about 90% more on the subject now from reading this thread compared with last night!

Blimey those taper pin drill bits are pricey! Still when time is money they would make sense.

Don't suppose I need to worry about the difference in taper between metric & imperial, but will certainly aim to obtain one or the other.

I saw some taper pins on eBay described as clock makers tapered pins, they looked to be good value compared with elsewhere, anyone know if these are different to regular tapered pins?

Or put another way, where do others buy their pins??

Chris.

Thank you not done it yet. Do you finish the pin flush or raised and rounded, or is that personal preference?

Ah thanks for that, I didn't know about tapered drills.

Presume on larger sizes it would be plain drill, tapered drill and then tapered ream?

As I wait for parts to get my Drummond M up and running I was admiring the taper pin method of joining ball handle to screw on the top slide. I looked up previous posts and watched a delightful online clip from the 1940's, but that showed fitting of large size pins.

Looking to have a go with something small say 1/8" diameter I now know metric and imperial tapers are different, and you can buy tapered reamers.

Question is do you drill the smaller end hole and ream the rest?

Are clockmakers tapered pins different?

Any and all tips gratefully received on methods and best places to buy?

Cheers

Chris

Thank you for your PM Diogenes11, sent you one back as I cannot find what you are referring too.

Cheers

Chris.

Is there a way of searching for a members posts of this forum?

Thank you Lee, that's good to know! (-:

Cheers

Chris.

Facinating Geoff, thank you. I think I'm right in that you posted a couple of catalogues in another link last night for someone else, thank you from me too, most interesting!

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks for this Hopper. I'm sure you are right about the belts, for now though as the bearings seem to be set fine I will keep to a jointed belt to save dismantling. As a beginner Ive also found the belt being able to slip not such a bad thing!

Ah ok, I do have steel handles though I'd have preferred the horn ones myself.

Were the Tumble Reverse and Thread Dial indicators optional extras, I don't have either.

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you Geoff, yes I saw that but the top rest is not original sadly.

That's interesting about what you say re Myford improvements, what were they?

Yes I will post pics in due course.

Cheers

Chris.