Member postings for old mart

Using either type of decimal measurements is fine, but try to avoid fractions.

Now the name Komet comes up, I fear John Reese is probably correct. Some makers like Komet and Ingersol had a habit of making excellent tooling with proprietry inserts which soon were unsurported. I bought a beautiful Garant 6mm solid carbide boring bar cheap on ebay, but ended up having to pay £50 for a box of 10 inserts for it, fortunately still currently available. The good thing about it is that it bores from 7mm and gives a superb finish in steel or aluminium.

An increase in the strength of the mix would help if only small quantities are used. We use Rocol soluble oil at the museum, but only in squeezy bottles at 10:1.

Welcome, Greg you will find lots of model enthusiasts on this forum. Only yesterday, we had a new member from Texas, Alin, who is a welder. You would also find some model makers on the "Home Shop Machinist " forum, if you are not already a member.

Howdy, Alin, we always appreciate advise from experts, keep it simple, not too technical. I couldnt weld anything to save my life, Iv'e tried in the past.

I have looked on ebay and there are lots of WCMT type inserts at least up to 08 size.

Can you post another picture of the tool with a WNMG 08 beside it?

If you find that the bar takes some obsolete, obscure inserts, it would be better to look for a bar that takes the inserts that you already have. I bought a 25mm lefthanded boring bar the other day for only £15, not the most popular type, but it takes the common DCMT 11's.

Edited By old mart on 19/05/2021 16:51:48

The shape is right for the WNMG inserts. As they are negative, the seating should dip towards the tip by 7 degrees. If the seating is horizontal, then a variation of the shape which is single sided and with sloping sides, commonly 7 degrees would need some research. Unfortunately, some positive boring bars also dip their tips, so that is not a sure method of telling. It is definitely not a threading tool.

You are part way there, Duncan, if I have interpreted google correctly, the volume increase between liquid form hydrogen and the gas is 851, and with oxygen, 860.

A cheap item that I bought at lidl a few weeks ago was a set of telescopic wands, one with a mirror on the end, and the other has a magnet with a built in led light. I wish I had bought 2 sets at the time.

You are lucky to have the backgear, that will more than make up for the slightly smaller motor.

The hydrogen would have to be compressed to get a worthwhile ammount in a vehicle, maybe even to liquid form. Petrol is bad enough around a crashed vehicle the hydrogen might be worse. If the hydrogen was kept as a refrigerated liquid, there would have to be constant venting, and using a garage to park in would cause additional problems.

It looks very good, any idea how much it costs?

I'm not sure if it's true, but it was said that during the life expectancy of a wind turbine, the ammount of electricity produced would not equal its initial enviromental cost.

A new type of nuclear energy will be needed to eventually make the costs start to add up in the right way, hopefully, but not in my lifetime.

Oxygen depletion cannot happen when hydrogen is produced, remember that the source, water is H2O. As the hydrogen is produced, so is oxygen. Producing the hydrogen in the first place efficiently enough may happen eventually. Meanwhile we will have to put up with the smug faces of electric car owners ZERO EMMISSIONS, and saving the planet.

It is a good idea to keep a box of mixed nuts, bolts, washers and metal offcuts ready for when you use a faceplate. Having a mill to make custom clamps and brackets helps too.

As Howard mentions, it is easy to distort things when clamping, faceplates are not very stiff.

Also, be very careful to keep spindle speed low when things are out of balance, even when counterweights are used.

Edited By old mart on 18/05/2021 14:43:24

I forgot to mention that if you have a faceplate to secure the castings to, it would be better than a chuck.

What happened to the op?

You could fit the spokes into the holes in the hub and fit the rim last to hold it all together.

We had fun with the apron of the Smart & Brown model A at the museum, everything was worn out. A lot of the bushings were replaced with sintered bronze ones modified or made directly from bronze bar. Three of the shafts so worn that they had to be replaced, and I used en19t or en24t, but didn't harden them. The apron has an oil pump which lubricates all the gears and bearings, plus the saddle and cross slide. With the pump restored and good old semi synthetic 5W40 there is little likelyhood of the wear repeating itself. If you cannot harden the new shafts, just make sure they are kept lubricated well in the future and you will be ok.

The paint colour might be a clue. The vee groove is at the rear of the lathe bed, it looks too small for a 15" Harrison.

By the way, welcome to the forum.

Edited By old mart on 16/05/2021 18:49:20