Member postings for old mart

That is a lot, 0.05mm high would be pushing it.

Good result, and you now have lots of alternative ways of approaching every job, so the thread was useful. Next time a belt needs changing on many types of lathes, remember that the link type can be fitted without disturbing the spindle.

London might be the port of entry, if the box originally held wine.

You could mount the table on parallels or a ground block with a hole in it to allow room for the drawbar projecting. I would play safe and use some form of drawbar. A 3mm thick head for your special drawbar would be plenty strong enough should you make one.

Edited By old mart on 29/05/2021 19:16:33

Edited By old mart on 29/05/2021 19:19:34

It looks fairly easy to make, mild steel would be fine. The diameter of the head end is 0.375". The total movement is about 1/4". The spring would be 3/8 od by the diameter of the hole in the knurled handle, it could be cut to a usable length. I have not tried to dismantle the museums one as the gearbox cover would probably have to be removed to re assemble it. If that is done, jointing compound is required in the right hand end as that is partly oil filled.

Judging from the quality, you could go for a much more sophisticated engine . Do you have a mill as well as a lathe?

Standard for R8 is 7/16 -20 as already mentioned, but I also have one or two R8 tools with metric threads, so I try to check before buying.

Hi, Mark, welcome. Ihave looked at the drawings and the selector for the Norton gearbox on the museums model A. There is no cmplete drawing, but the angle of the tip can be guessed reasonably easily. The grubscrew is 4BA and a 1/16 AF hex key is the right size. I include some pictures, the red part of the drawing is conjecture, as I did not dismantle the thing.

When I use this forum, I frequently skip back and forth to other sites and don't want to keep logging back on. My method is to go to the log on page, and then before doing anything else, go back to forums. Then when I go to log on, a little box appears which I tick and log on. Then until switching off the pc, I can skip back and forwards from various sites without having bother.

I wouldn't have thought that the wheel could do any damage, it must have been the dressed edge being much sharper than common bench grinder wheel.

It would also be possible to hold the tool shank in a vise, with some shim to make up for the middle section being slightly smaller and take a small cut along the slot to deepen it slightly.

You have nothing to loose by taking the caliper to bits and cleaning the otherwise impossible to reach areas. Remove the non vital label on the back of the body and the screws will be revealed. I think they are JIS crossheads, not Phillips.

Since reaching the screw to adjust the stickout could entail removing the spindle, it might be easier to carefully reach it from inside the spindle and file it shorter. A Dremel might take a little off the end, say 0.004", 0.1mm at a time until the new tool fits. Make sure any filings are cleaned out very well afterwards.

I purposly left the R8 conversion for the Tom Senior light vertical unfinished, the hole for the pin/screw was not drilled right through into the bore. This is better and the only time it can cause problems is when an R8 collet is used, because there is nothing to get hold of. As long as the threads for the drawbar and all the threads in tooling are free running and lubricated, there is no problem. Without the pin, you can clean the taper section of the spindle with a BT30 cleaning wand.

An excellent little engine, now what are your plans for the next one?

Lazy tongs are easy if there is room to use them. My fingers are arthritic and can only squeeze a few, whatever the size, and I bought a pneumatic riveter from Axminster tools. It came with a comprehensive kit of spares, new jaws, o rings and diaphragms, plus all the tools needed to work on it. It makes pop riveting a doddle.

That is exactly what I did when the new compressor was installed at the museum. The compressor is outsise the workshop building in its own little locked up house. The hose is led inside to a ball valve and back out again to vent. The valve is at a convenient height, easy to reach and the receiver is drained every time we go home. The main three phase switch is also inside the main building. We check the oil level once a month, it never seems to use any.

If the job is easy, it will get done, if somebody had to struggle to drain the water every time, I doubt if it would.

Good original British made vises seem to command high prices on ebay. I was lucky, because when I bought the house, there was a 5" record in the garage, and after making a set of jaws, it is superb. It is steel, not cast iron which is a bonus.

I bought a very cheap box of sockets on ebay simply because it had a couple of double square sockets in it. They were for 8 and 10mm heads. The other way would be to just buy some SHCS of the right length and diameter, and use a hex key.

My cousin who was a small boy during the war was taught to make a toy that looked like a table tennis bat which had four chickens on it. They pecked in turn worked by threads passing through the top to a carved wooden ball beneath. He made me one when I was about 5. He was taught by a German prisoner of war.

I hope you are right about glue, and its not some kind of soft solder.

You will get in trouble with the moderators, you should have posted this in "the cup of tea room"