Member postings for old mart

The 100mm Bison vises at the museum only open about 70mm, that is why I got one of ARC's 125mm with the swivel, not as nice as that one of yours, but it opens to 150mm.

So that battery factory is in such a cold location that it will take extra power to heat it, and the workforce has to travel long distances to get there. Allof the raw materials have further to go and the finished product also.

Welcome, Paul, there are lots of steam enthusiasts on this forum to trade info with.

With a power cross slide feature, I wonder if that is a link to the leadscrew nuts being locked?

When there is not much gap between the chuck body and the bed, the advantage of the larger chuck diminishes. Also the cross slide is likely to foul the chuck body.

The four jaws support the work at 90 degree spacing, wheras a three jaw is 120 degrees. Have you tried a junior hacksaw with the sides of the blade rubbed with 400 wet and dry paper just a little to smooth the sides of the set? A lot depends whether you want the parted off faces to be a finished surface, of if you can take a bit more off by facing off.

Well made vise stop, will work very well. You are not the only one who just gets on with making something, exact dimensions are not always needed to get a project underway, all it takes is a bit of imagination. I only use a drawing if the job is for somebody else to their specifications.

That ARC vise is rather nice looking, how have you found it quality wise?

Edited By old mart on 15/06/2021 17:48:26

Edited By old mart on 15/06/2021 17:48:39

Edited By old mart on 15/06/2021 17:48:58

A four jaw independent chuck will give better support than a three jaw when parting off. If there is more than 1 diameter overhang from the jaws, the added support from the tailstock would be welcome, and finishing with a hacksaw can be much safer than parting all the way.

The bigger the chuck, the longer the body, so you would loose some bed length. Check out the three jaw offerings on the ARC site, they helpfully show the sizes and their holding capacity.

To bend polycarbonate, a hot air gun will do, my efforts with the 6mm were not very good, but thinner material should be easier. I tended to overheat the bend line, the picture of the guard with bent ends does not really show the poor bends. Practice with a small offcut would help a lot.

That chuck you were interested on Amazon is a 5", is that ok with your lathe? Also, the chuck does not come with a backplate, so it will not be quick fit.

It would be worth checking out Chronos for a 125mm three jaw chuck, a 5" backplate,1 1/8" X 12 tpi and the cost of postage to Canada.

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/

Edited By old mart on 14/06/2021 19:41:48

Welcome, Dean, there are several members from OZ and some Kiwi's on the forum,the more the merrier.

I made some guards out of 6mm polycarbonate sheet for the museum's mills simply because it was available laying around. Slightly overkill, as 3mm would have been easier to work. The arm holding the screens is a cheap adjustable arm stand for flat screen monitors up to about 19".

A 5" vise would be the best choice, 6" is more for Bridgeport size machines.

At the museum, we have a choice of an ARC 5", 125mm vise for the larger jobs, or 100mm Bison which get used most frequently. Both mills are of similar size to your new Warco.

If I was looking for a good value vise, I would give the ARC 130-040-03500 one top priority, it is 100mm jaws opening 122mm. Their next size up in this type is a very big jump.

Edited By old mart on 13/06/2021 18:15:19

Edited By old mart on 13/06/2021 18:23:12

They look fit for purpose, and fit in with the decor pretty well. Probably modern manufacture.

The thing to remember is that any deficiencies in the quartz crystal is corrected when the time signal is picked up. The average accuracy over a year might be within a 1/10 th of a second, but a graph made with a sensitivity of 1/100 of a second might show plus or minus reading throughout the year.

I used to work in aircraft parts manufacture, and all the timepieces used for any process were checked and recertified every year. By far the greatest errors in timing a process which might be over one minute would be the operator, not the clock.

I take lots of time to make anything, but it hardly matters unless you are making a living at it.

I think that a huge ammount of time and effort went into aging that model. Whether it was worth it is always a matter of opinion, and I'm not going to make any comments.

Those figures I put down would be easier to manage in a slightly different form. Starting by just touching in the 0.800" bore and setting 100 on the cross slide, using thousandths of an inch numbers and working back towards zero.

100 - 85 - 70 - 57 - 47 - 39 - 32 - 26 - 21 - 16 - 12 - 9 - 6 - 4 - 3 - 2 - 1

Start checking the fit at 3. There is a possibility that you might reach 1 and still not be able to get the leadscrew to go in. You would have to creep up slowly in that case. Also worth checking if things were tighter than expected, would be the core diameter of the male thread. I have machined this gunmetal dry, and if you have an airline, blow the swarf out every pass.

It's well worth watching all of Joe Pi's YouTube videos, he is a most talented engineer.