Member postings for old mart

It is common for mills to have taper roller bearings and if yours is this type, it will be very sensitive to the preload adjustment. Overheating is either overpacking of the grease, you need at least 50% airspace, or preload. I had another less common spindle overheating problem on the Tom Senior R8 conversion caused by the lower seal friction which fooled me for some time, but that is unlikely with the original dust cover on a mill. If the preload is adjustable, there will likely be two nuts, possibly with a lock washer that have left hand threads in the upper half of the spindle. The trick is to just get the loose play in the bearings removed before locking the nuts. Testing at maximum rpm for 20 minutes should get luke warm, but not any hotter. Too hot and you very slightly slacken the bearings (try about 10 degrees), let things cool down and repeat the test. Once set, the bearings will probably never need adjusting for years. I use lithium high melting point grease as used in older car wheel bearings.

Today, Lidl has got a worktorch which runs on the X20Vteam batteries. It is £7.99. The light can be pivoted up through about 110 degrees and is not dimmable or focussable, 3 watts/280lm. I bought two, one for home and one for use at the museum. If you already use the system and have batteries, then I can recommend them.

Edited By old mart on 30/09/2021 17:10:00

The way to save burning so much methane, reduce landfill and help feed the hungry is Soylent Green.

Welcome to the forum, Richard, it looks like you are well setup. Get some pics posted of your projects for us to enjoy.

Time to cut a little metal and see if the real results match the theory. I would go for aluminium first with a tiny bit of lubrication, it is easier to manage.

I would turn the mill 90 degrees anticlockwise to give it more space.

Edited By old mart on 23/09/2021 17:02:22

What a can of worms I stirred up. I would like to point out to Bazyle that the 38 cans and bottles of beer that I bought represent over one months consumption. If everybody drank the same as me there would be no more arrests for drunk and disorderly ar any need for a drink driving law. I was told by the supervisor that she understood my complaint, but that the store manager was able to put his own interpretation on the voucher and it had happened more than once. I rather wish I had taken advantage of her offer to call the manager, just to take up more than £6 of his valuble time. Circlip knows what I'm on about, looking at his own voucher.

I will be taking my buisiness elswhere. Living in the edge of a town, I can choose the following all within a 3 mile radius: Tesco, Asda, Sainsburys, Lidl, Aldi, Waitrose, Marks and Spencer and CO-OP, so there's plenty of competition.

I have been a regular customer at a local supermarket for the last 15 years, and have one of their membership cards. The other day I got a special offer voucher. It was "save £6 when you spend £60". I filled the trolley with £87 pounds worth of stuff which included £46 worth of beer to ensure I was eligible for the discount. The voucher was refused at the till as there was alcohol in the order. When I got home, I looked again at the voucher and was surprised to read "Valid in store only, in a single shop. Not valid on alcohol only baskets". When I returned and queeried this, they were adamant that any alcohol automatically disqualified anybody using the voucher. What do you think of that?

I'm with Ady1 here, the plywood will be strong and spread the load.

That looks like a Bosch SDS special nut that doesn't need a spanner. Common nuts on angle grinders have two holes for a peg spanner.

Wow, 2 pictures of a properly thought out replacement for the compound slide in one thread, Ifoggy has one too!

You might consider changing the small motor for a single phase one and then buying a VFD to run the main motor from the mains. You will have to set the maximum running speed to match the wheel safe limits.

I can recommend the "inverter drive supermarket" and look for a VFD the same rating as the motor and one that also includes their own "quick start manual" which will save you many wiring up and programming headaches.

The alignment of the toolpost matters most if you are using a parting off tool which must be at right angles to the spindle axis. For most home use having exact location is optional as long as the toolpost can be tightened securely.

John Haine's toolpost mod is the neatest and stiffest that I have seen, and it can be removed quickly if the compound is needed for a specific job.

The blanked off point on the left end of the top of the headstock is another project for 3D printing. The little insert that should sit in there is to provide an access point for adjusting the left hand spindle bearing. You can also squirt some oil in there to lubricate the thrust bearing. If you join the group already mentioned, they may have free downloads of S & B manuals and parts drawings. Otherwise, you can buy the full print from "lathes UK".

I am lucky to have found an honest garage. I asked them to look at the steering rack boots when the car was last serviced and the boss told me that they had plenty of life left in them.

You will find that the threads on the model A are either BA or BSF. I could try making a sketch of the gear cover which would help with a 3d print. I don't think the change to the later backgear lock is viable. The apron is filled at the lower right hand end level/filler. The backgear train can be filled simply by squirting oil down between the gears, you would normally have to remove the cover, (missing) to do that. Just deep enough to submerge the bottom of the lower gear. It is the Mk2 that has the improved backgear assembly, yours is a Mk1 or 1.5.

Edited By old mart on 07/09/2021 20:05:04

Edited By old mart on 07/09/2021 20:06:42

Better stop using your electric car until the problem is resolved.

This firm may have something similar. If you have a lathe, then making or modifying to use a similar bearing would be easy, I can'y remember if I reused or replaced the thrust bearings on the museums TS when it was refurbished. You need to measure the OD, bore and the thickness of the three parts.

**LINK**

Edited By old mart on 06/09/2021 16:35:12

The photos provided by Stueeee show the reason why your lathe spews out oil, there should be a cover for the backgears. It has no function but to contain the oil, so it might be possible to make something out of sheet metal. The screws which hold it to the headstock are 2BA.

With a shortened hex key, you turn the backgear lock clockwise to disengage the pulleys from the spindle, and then you can engage the backgears. After using the backgear, you first disengage the backgear eccentric and then using the hex key in an anticlockwise direction, the locking dog is sprung back into place to lock the pulleys to the spindle. If you hold the chuck and slowly turn the pulleys, you should hear the dog spring back into place.

The cross slide backlash is caused by wear on the 1/2" x 5 ACME left hand thread. There is limited antibacklash adjustment on the nut which might help.

Be wary of running in reverse with a screwed spindle machine.

Edited By old mart on 06/09/2021 15:21:10

It would be common for the brushed motor of a router to run at 25000 rpm.

Maybe you could save a lot of money by getting a local machine shop to do the work for you. As long as you intend to use the mill regularly, it would not be worth buying one.