Member postings for old mart

A 3/8" drawbar would fit a MT2, I would guess, and to get enough diameter in the wall after boring central to take a helicoil, the length would have to be reduced. The helicoil would take up less room than a threaded bush. You would have to make a longer drawbar just for that arbor. It would be easier to bin the arbor and replace it. But be careful, most MT2 arbors have a 10mm thread in them.

I mill down the 20mm tooling using a 50mm Ceratizit shell mill holding 5 round inserts of 10mm diameter. The steel of every tool from Sandvik, Kennametal, Seco, Korloy and the Chinese no names is very tough to machine, not too hard to file, but I have to rotate the inserts after 2 tools are milled.

When I made a special cross slide dial for the Smart & Brown imperial lathe so that a metric leadscrew could be used, (118 divisions is close to 3mm pitch), a jig was made to help hold the punches square to the dial when stamping it. Because I can never hold them straight freehand.

If you do indeed need a Boxford backplate, they are easy to get from ebay in different diameters for finish machining to fit a chuck. If you can post the exact dimensions, length of thread, overall length to shoulder and the length and diameter of the register, it could be verified by Boxford owners.

Boxford most likely, the Atlas is the same nominal size, but uses unified thread form.

I bought a Soba 6" which is a copy of the Vertex and it is ok since ditching the central needle roller bearing and turning up a bush out of aluminium to remove the unacceptable radial play. The aluminium is fine for a bearing considering the very slow speed of rotation.

I agree with Huub about the TCMT and DCMT style inserts, they have a 7 degree clearance angle and work better with small machines. The only disadvantage is that being single sided, they have fewer edges per insert.

Edited By old mart on 27/02/2022 16:29:53

No genuine firm will ask you to send them your log on details.

The first one that comes into my mind starts: I had a girl with a -------------------.

If the tool size is a problem, then look out for the WNMG 06 size inserts in a 12mm tool.

The Chinese made tooling and inserts are very good, I have many and those WNMG 08 are a common size, available in many grades, I have various steel, stainless and aluminium inserts. If you don't have a pile up and break the entire end off the insert, there will be 6 fresh cutting edges per insert. I get mine from ebay, but the Amazon ones will be identical.

Edited By old mart on 26/02/2022 20:47:04

The lathe at the museum has a tool height of 17.53mm and I buy 20mm tooling and just mill the 2.47mm off the bottom of the tool. No shims are required, so using 2 and 4 way toolposts is easy. I would steer clear of modifying the insert seat.

I can recomment APT they are very good and fast. For home shop people they have a common range of inserts available singly, so you can buy an assortment to test out rather than a box of 10 which might be unsuitable. They also sell carbide threading inserts singly if you only have one job for them.

The smell of old coolant was the signal to replace it, and I wonder if the extreme dilution was to blame. I just use a Rocol soluble oil in small mixes at about 10% and have never had it go off. But I only use it in squeezy bottles, not a pumped system.

Most of the cnc mills where I worked collected the floating oil with a little mechanism that looked like a vertical belt sander. Just a slow moving rubber belt dipping into the tank, and a scraper to wipe off the oil and divert it into a small container for disposal. They ran all the time the machine was running.

How about the mechanism design similar to the bass drum pedal in a drum kit.

I was worried about the leakage current from the filter causing the rcd's to trip, they are lower than domestic ones, but so far there has been no problem.

Offsetting the tailstock might not be able to produce a steep enough taper, these adaptors are cheap as chips on ebay.

When I bought a Scneider VFD for the museum's Tom Senior light vertical, I had the advantage of being able to print out the quickstart guide from The Inverter Supermarket. Following this was easy and I paid strict attention to the screening of all the wiring, including remote controls and having a fully earthed metal box to house the inverter. This was in a different enviroment from a home installation and the strict adherance to the rules was necessary. So far it has caused no interference to mobile phones, radios or wifi, including 433Mhz remote controls.

If making one, I would play safe and not use very hard steel for fear of it breaking or loosing some teeth. You could get away with only 3 teeth and sharpen them frequently with a swiss file. Every couple of turns the saw would have to be withdrawn and cleaned or risk clogging and jamming.