Member postings for old mart

My Bosch drill does exactly the same, occasionally, more often at low speed than high, I haven't looked inside it for ten years when I replaced the horrible stiff cable with the lovely flexible B & D one after the B & D commutator decided to come unglued.

You've got it pretty well sussed.

A. The wrench is probably made to be correct if using the biggest tap that will fit it.

B. Yes

C. Yes

D. I've never tried them, would prefer ist, second and bottoming myself.

E. Yes that seems to be common, no idea why.

F. I've never noticed.

G. Yes, they are miniature works of art.

Yes it might be easier, I could even use the hole drilled for the stop.

More pictures, the step is to make the height easy to achieve. When the lug is bolted on it will be 0.008" higher than the rest of the base to ensure the vise is pulled down.

I haven't had time to research a holder for this type, it may be available from carbidemart. They look like Sandvik, Iscar and the generic MGMN style, but those three are not interchangeable. Odd shapes cannot be identified using the charts, so the manufacturers can call them anything they like. Making a holder would be extremely difficult owing to the longitudinal vee grooves in the design. 

Now, I've looked at the prices, Its not worth the bother getting a toolholder as the postage from the USA alone would be prohibitive on top of the unit price, if they could be bothered to ship to the UK.

The common Chinese parting tools on ebay are not bad and even buying a holder and 2 boxes of inserts, one for steel and one for aluminium would be much cheaper. The first link by peak 4 actually shows the ones I am referring to.

Edited By old mart on 15/01/2020 22:04:49

Edited By old mart on 15/01/2020 22:05:47

Edited By old mart on 15/01/2020 22:08:02

I missed out the start of the detachable lug.

I have long been thinking of modifying the 100mm Bison vises we have at the museum. Most of the time they are bolted to the table with the jaws lined up with the X axis. They also have lugs which allow the vise to have the jaws in line with the Y axis. I don't want to loose that facility, but I do want to loose the overhanging rear lug which uses up Y axis travel. This is more of a problem on the Tom Senior, than on the drill mill as the bed is smaller, and only has three slots whereas the DM has four slots and more Y axis movement. A start has been made on making a removable rear lug for the rare occasions when it might be used.

I very much doubt if Norton still support Windows 7. You have a good chance of getting a free upgrade to Windows 10, its not that far removed from 7, I still have control panel on 10. You can get used to it if you want to, I still have a copy of 7, it doesn't get used any more. 

If you still want to run old programs on Windows 7, I recommend disconnecting it from the internet and getting a cheap pc which is on Windows 10 for using on line. They could both be connected to the same monitor using, say D-sub for 7 and hdmi for the newer machine as long as only one was switched on at a time.

Edited By old mart on 15/01/2020 20:59:29

Those codes don't make sense to me, as for as the insert designation charts go, there is nothing starting with Z. You could post us some pictures of them, if they are a proprietary insert, you are likely to be out of luck, unless you have the means to make your own holders for them.

Removing all traces of the soft solder is the key, I cannot fault your procedure. Residual traces of the soft solder would have been visible after the pickle bath.

If you decide to bend a piece of brass, then start by rounding off the long edges. This reduces the chances of cracks. Then anneal by heating to a dull red and cooling. Then produce the bends. Lastly, re anneal.

It will take a little experimentation to get the bends in the right places, so having some spare metal stock is a good idea.

I'm sorry to say that you will be doubly confused after reading through this thread. Some people like to make things so complicated just to show off their knowledge.

So anyone who runs a four pole three phase motor at 29 Hz is content to expect a full 783 rpm, you must be a bunch of prats. 

Not only that, but it WILL NOT GIVE ITS RATED POWER.

Edited By old mart on 13/01/2020 20:39:53

There are wallabies in the gardens at Leonardslee near Horsham in West Sussex, UK. They are semi wild and have no problems surviving in the winter. If you visit there and are lucky, you might catch a glimpse of one.

Motors in this country are designed to run at 50 Hz and in the USA, 60 Hz, not 29 Hz.

Welcome, Nat, it looks like you are making a welcome early start, and forums always need young blood added to their members. You are especially lucky to have a dad who is also interested in the hobby, look after him!

We have an incomplete set of collets at the museum, some of which had seen better days. I selected the poorest ones and put packing in the slots and bored them with my 6mm solid carbide Garant with Garant inserts. The inserts are like hens teeth and I had to pay the full price for original ones, but they are worth it. I bored collets to 5/16" , 3/8" , 1/2" and 5/8", plus 8, 10, 12 and 16mm. Using smaller Picco solid carbide boring tools, I also did 1/4" and 6mm. Despite the interrupted cuts and hard surfaces, the bores are pretty good and stock sizes run true better than 0.0001" tir.

I also have some of the external ring and cone stepped collets plus the opener / closers. There is one of the NOS cone collets on ebay for a reasonable price, unfortunately, it is identical to the other one I bought some time ago from the same vendor, or I would have snapped it up. 

I would think trying an auction price starting at £9 each if selling individually, but some odd sizes will not be likely to sell. Or £7 each starting if they are sold in bundles, which would be more likely to get rid of them. I hardly ever use them, so I would not be interested.

Edited By old mart on 13/01/2020 14:10:29

It's always a good idea to try the recommended tooling on any offcuts of the metal first to get a feel for yourself. That way there will be no danger of spoiling the actual workpiece.

Of course, the majority of people on this forum will not be wanting information on 400 volt inverters simply because they don't have three phase power connected to their homes.

The information I have read does not mention a change of power or speed if a motor is connected in star or delta.

Try reading the same link that I posted earlier:

**LINK**

I have dealt with Simply Bearings in the last six months and can recommend them. They have a huge variety at all prices and unless your machinery is going to be used for production, the premium ones will not justify the expense.

**LINK**

I always recommend Motalias website, it contains a good number of thread charts which can be printed out and may well have the data you require. They also have a lot of goodies for motorcycles.**LINK**