Member postings for old mart

I'm a bit out of touch with recent Lidl diy stuff, is the grinder 12 or 20V?

There is another way, filling the pipe temporarily with a low melting alloy such as Cerrobend:

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Thanks, I've found it on lathes UK

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I bought mine, a 7 x 12 Warco about 10 years ago in almost unused condition. Included was the milling slide which has one shortcoming. It attaches to the cross slide where the compound sits. So it is too far from the centreline of the lathe without a modification before you start.

There is a wealth of useful information and useful modifications and improvements on www.minilathe.com

Making your own to be also lightweight is not really viable as CO2 in liquid form is at a pressure depending on temperature of just below 1000 psi.

Right there Baz, there are not many lathes with a 16" chuck and a screwed spindle.

That cavity would suggest either a blowhole in the casting, or a pin fitted from the inside with a much larger inner end. I would remove the bed, it would only take a few minutes, but if you are not sure about doing it yourself, then it will not do much harm to leave it alone and make do with one lock.

I've just seen this very compact milling machine on ebay UK. It looks a cut above the usual small mills, any ideas what make it is? 

Sorry, forgot the link.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/milling-machine-240v/124085878340?hash=item1ce4183e44:g:aB0AAOSwYBpeSVcH

Edited By old mart on 16/02/2020 19:18:19

I made a set out of silver steel for the Pratt lightweight 6" four jaw. They had LH acme threads, although some of their chucks used square threads. Unfortunately, they are still in my cupboard, after I found another more serious problem with the chuck. I broached the hole hexagon, as it was easier than having a square hole. Much too small for a 16" one, however. When the blocks which hold the screws in are drifted out, check them carefully for cracks.

This damage is common with Pratt chuck screws, they are not able to withstand abuse. Ham fisted people wrench the key sideways, putting great strain on the square. This is even more prevalent with screwed on chucks. Then it is easy to put the key in and whack the base of the key with a mallet to start undoing the chuck from the spindle. At the museum, we have a strap wrench for removing chucks and never use any other method.

A plain brass cylinder is all that you want, it pushes against a flat surface in this type of mill.

I had an Academy slide rule with motor efficiencies on it in 1965, I may well still have it. On the wall in the maths room at Midhurst secondary school in the early 60's was a giant one, about 8 feet long, not exactly pocket size. After my knee heals up, I'm hoping to be able to ride the super full suspension mountain bike which I built about 12 years ago. I cannot ride with plain pedals, I have to be clipped in with SPD.

14 it is, you could make one out of a brass woodscrew in five minutes with a hacksaw and a file.

They usually have a tiny brass cylinder down the hole. Remove both screws and check the depth of the holes, you will then know how long the cylinder should be that just goes down the hole.

As well as soft alloys, they work on wood, I have flat and half round. I used to have a double sided flat with a different coarseness each side.

The bottom bracket threads on British bikes also have the left and right hand threads. I once bought a Ballistic aluminium full suspension mountain bike frame which had been welded up with the bottom bracket the wrong way round. It did indeed come loose miles from home, just as well I had self extracting crank bolts. It got some weak threadlock on the XTR sealed bottom bracket and was ok after that. The funny thing is that Italian bike bottom brackets have right hand threads both ends. 

Pete Rimmer is correct in that it is down to precession forces are high because the shaft is overhanging from the fixing. Imagine having a housing with two ball races spaced 2" apart which have 1" bores. If you stick a 3/4" rod through the bearings and use a stirring motion, the bearings will start to rotate. this is an extreme example, but the best I can think of.

Edited By old mart on 15/02/2020 16:06:05

Thanks, everybody, I have the feeling that recovering from the second one will be much quicker. The only thing that's not quite right is that my blood pressure is lower than it should be. Fortunately we have a digital BP kit from Lloyds chemists, which I used as soon as the slightly giddy and funny eyes started. I have stopped taking my BP medication and I am recording the results every couple of hours, to show them at the hospital on Tuesday when I get the dressing changed and see the physiotherapist. I think the reason is being off the beer since last Sunday.

I would lean towards soaking in Jizer or Gunk rather than brake fluid. Cillet Bang is a strong cleaner, but needs to be rinsed off very well with water, as it is corrosive.

When you get to know the machine you have, it's surprising just how good the results can be. A good machinist can produce great work on a mediocre machine, but seldom the other way round. The advantage of having a Myford, is the wealth of knowledge and help available for any user who needs help and bothers to ask.                                         Also, every spare part can be found ready made, which is not true of some other makes.

Edited By old mart on 14/02/2020 09:47:49

I was brought home yesterday by ambulance and wheeled to my front door, as I couldn't manage the ramp. Today the knee has improved a huge amount and I'm as pleased as Punch. It already bends over 90 degrees easily.

I can just see those hip joints being made into door knockers for orthopaedic surgeons.

The best way to avoid the risk of a less than perfect drill is to get a smaller boring bar to start with. They don't have to be expensive.

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