Member postings for old mart

The drill mill at the museum is similar design to the pictures of RF30's that came up by googling. It has no way of tramming the head to the table and I would be interested to find out how you did it. There is a joint between the column and the base, but it would be difficult in the extreme to successfully make any adjustments there.

Its nice to find a company which doesn't mind one offs. They would only have to take a couple of thou off, easy for them, but a mighty challenge for the rest of us. That firm is in the same town that Tom Senior mills were made.

Edited By old mart on 16/07/2020 17:24:50

The indent is only to stop the gib slipping sideways out of place, it is common practice with lathes, even Myford.

I bought a new 0.75KW motor and an 0.75KW Schneider VFD. They work perfectly together, I heeded some advise not to waste money on a larger VFD as the safety features built in were designed to be matched to a similar power motor.

The head is quite different from the LV type, I wonder if you could remove the wheel mecannism and get enough access to the quill to give it some oil. Even extending the quill to its limit would expose some of it to oil, even if it was messy.

Edited By old mart on 13/07/2020 13:48:53

While you are considering options, make sure you eliminate the bolt factor by using 12.9 high tensile bolts, they are much stronger than 8.8 or stainless steel.

When I did the modification to the Tom Senior light vertical fron MT2 to R8, I included a double lip seal into the design to run on the end of the spindle adjacent to the lower bearing. It was a double lip seal with a garter spring on one side and a thin unsprung lip on the other. I removed the spring and fitted the large lip on the greased bearing side. Every time the spindle was tested, it overheated and I spent some time fine adjusting the bearing preload, even setting the quill and spindle assembly in vee blocks and using a dti. I eventually realised that the bottom bearing was getting hot and the top one wasn't. The heat was being generated by the oil seal, even though the seal size and shaft matched and it was well lubricated. The only cure was to cut away the upper part of the seal entirely which was ok as there was grease not oil and rely on the outer lip. The outer lip is satisfactory as it does not heat up and is present solely to keep swarf and dirt out of the bearings.

There would not be much advantage of the longer thread, but if you are concerned, then follow the aircraft industry proceedure with almost all threads in light alloys and use Helicoil type wire thread inserts. 1 1/2 diameter coils will be 12mm deep and will be stronger than any ordinary depth straight into the aluminium.

The gears must be made from sheet tufnol with the gear axis square to the surface. This is because the grain, like in wood is on your side.

That 3/4" W which is 10tpi sounds like a good idea, and if you are not sure of the accuracy, then it would not be hard to do some tests with different measured movements against the dial readings. The OP could use a suitable metric equivalent, although getting hold of trapezoidal stock is much easier in the UK.

My cousin is 86, and had one eye done successfully, and was overjoyed when the eye specialist suggested having the other one done. Now he has much improved vision.

This link should show most of the common types:

**LINK**

I restored a gearbox shaft with a sleeve and INA needle roller bearing, the wall thickness of the sleeve was under 1mm. Everything depends on your shaft diameter. Case hardened steel would have to be ground to finished size before using.

That runout you now have is about par for the course, if you want better, a four jaw independent chuck is the way to go. They take more getting used to, but worth it.

Welcome, Chris, lots of people make excellent stuff on these little lathes.

Thats a novel backplate, I hope your welds are good. With a four jaw independent, the main thing is making sure the front of the faceplate is faced dead flat and square to the spindle axis. Radial runout is slightly less important with this type of chuck. The best check for the faceplate would to screw it on ond off several times and check with a dti that it stays true on the face.

I'm back at the museum next Wednesday, I will have a look for the faceplate.

Edited By old mart on 11/07/2020 15:27:57

All you need are the three dimensions of the holes shaft and depth, and you can try "bearing boys" or even ebay for the size. Most oil seals are garter type, it refers to the spring which holds the lips tight. Another good source would be "simply bearings"

Edited By old mart on 11/07/2020 15:16:34

I have had some problems like that with the drill mill but not the Tom Senior. Two possibilities spring to mind, either the spindle bearings in the DM are not as good, of the speeds being different can affect vibration and some kind of resonance.

These problems are difficult to diagnose without a lot of time consuming testing.

Even taking the tool out of the collet and refitting it might make a difference.

I have some left handed boring bars which have advantages using the lathe in reverse, but steps are needed first to lock threaded spindles. Left handed internal threading bars are good too, as you produce a RH thread cutting away from the chuck.

These chucks are very easy to dismantle, clean and regrease, yours may benifit from a little tlc.

If you have some silver steel. of other ground stock like the plain shank of a 1/2" drill in undamaged condition, then you could try chucking it up lightly so you can just turn it by hand, and then wiggle it about. You should be able to tell if the jaws are looser at the front or not. If the are not touching at the front, they are bellmouthed.

Perhaps a cut of 1mm is expecting too much from a little chuck in a Myford.

Edited By old mart on 10/07/2020 20:22:16

Edited By old mart on 10/07/2020 20:25:51