Member postings for Pete White

Good luck to the sellers at those prices. I personally could think of quite a few better ways of spending my "workshop cash "

Pete

How about using a fixed steady on a much smaller lathe than you would need to pass a cue through the spindle ?

Pete

Engineering porn, great photos, keep up the good work and posts, much appreciated.

Pete

I will second the widen your choice option, to give you more chance of finding a good buy. Accessories are expensive if bought individually, a machine with as much kit as possible is a way to go, if the machine is sound, be prepared to travel.

In the days of the demise of Technical Colleges machines could be had with 3 and 4 jaw chucks, face plate, catch plate, coolant, low voltage lighting, taper turning, fix stead, travelling steady, gap bed. etc.

Good Luck

Pete

This might be a bit like when we conned into having "economy seven" for free to benefit from energy being produced at night. I few years ago i was looking at changing supplier and they questioned why I was on economy seven as I was not using enough night units to justify the charges THAT HAD CREPT IN. Soon came of that scam, but still wonder how much it had cost me over the years. I had given up night time activities, like baking cakes, night time washing, cutting the privet hedge, getting the wife up early to do the ironing, etc. lol

Who started all this whining anyway....lol

Pete

Thunderbird, no problem, old fashioned looking format, gmail I never got to grips with.

Top tip, Linux Mint, don't like paying for software prefer spending money on tools. lol

Pete

I am lucky to have 3 phase in the workshop, never used a VDF, but do you need to ensure your motor is a six ends out so that you can make sure the voltage is correct, or already suitably wired?

There was single phase motor on my wood lathe when I bought it., it was hopeless with all the stopping and starting leading to over heating. Sorted by fitting a readily available cheap three phase option. Maybe the motor had a problem but convinced me that single phase is not for me.

Pete

Double post, instead of edit, as below.

Edited By Pete White on 09/02/2019 18:27:47

Well those two answers are exactly what I was looking for, lots of very good points and the link, many thanks to you both

The Atlantic offering was taken from the series in M.E.March 2010, that was the one that didn't look right to me.

I am at the stage of joining a local club, will talk with them.

Thank you for your time both.

Pete

Edit Just saw other two answers which appeared whilst I was composing, lol thank you also gents

Edited By Pete White on 25/01/2019 11:51:04

Well it appears that 153 viewers don't know the answer, lol, so I did some more research .

I found the GL5 standards to add to my confusion ! ..............the.0.038 tip radius made me smile. I was beginning to think that I was over thinking this until I saw that, serius stuff, ..........or maybe I am over thinking it lol

And then I looked back at the Atlantic details. that 1/16 flange isnt much, but a big radius behind it wth no dimensions or taper...........does it all matter

Pete

Third vote for keeping it simple, lock nut.

As above, I have four 16 mm thick billets machined up with axle hole bored true to face.

I started to think about final dimensions and pulled up this drawing. AALS standards, whatever they are. My question was about the back taper 0 - 8 degress being a bit open ended. Then I pulled up a wheel drawing from a mag,for an Atlantic and found it to be quite different, only 9/16 thick including a 1/16? thick flange. Very different !

I have done some google and found nothing to help, I am out of control here, lol.

What should I be doing here ?

With Thanks

Pete

Edited By Pete White on 24/01/2019 17:47:39

P. S. 45 minutes a blank, EN8, turned it once when about a third way through.

Bet a fancy band saw would have whipped that by a mile, but both my saws came F.O.C...................and I have owned them for thirty years.

Well apart from rebuilding my Ajax donkey saw, I sawed off three wheel blanks, with my Manchester saw, from a 4 inch billet. It has not had such a workout for quite a while.

Why only three blanks? .................going to try out the Ajax tomorrow. One must go, a man does not need two donkey saws. lol

Nice bit of kit there, sod the expense. Had a quick look for price and got bored, but just remember lads that £750 will barely get you a week in a residential care home. So might as well spend the money and enjoy.

That said I fettled up my old Manchester only yesterday. lol

They do tend to walk about a little as mentioned. My old Rapidor didn't do that, might have been because it was about five times as heavy lol

Edited By Pete White on 17/01/2019 08:49:40

Edited By Pete White on 17/01/2019 08:53:11

I don't we are getting all the information here.................as usual .

Thank you Keith for that detailed explanation, I understand the table now.

What I am seeing is that with say the short 0.75 springs there is not much difference between free and solid length. In the case of type 47 on 0.23.

So what I think I was originally trying to find out, in hind sight, was how much suspension travel is a reason amount to design for.

I am working from drawing form 5g drawings in M.E. which show horn brackets at 2 inches and as I said with bearings at 26-28mm only leaves 19 ish mm for the springs to live in. This is not exactly my area of expertise but understand that "proper" loco builder do use ball bearing?

With Thanks

Pete