Member postings for Tomek

Hi Keith.

I agree on joining ME society. There's a lot on benefits that comes with it and the most important is the chance to meet people that share a same interests and are happy to share their knowledge.

If you wish to contact WMES, club doesn't have a website anymore but some info and contact details can be found on Facebook page Wmes facebook.

You're welcome to come round to a meeting at WI hall in Thornton Hough, these are on the first and third Thursdays of each month at 7.30pm.

Tom

Hi Simon. I've sent you a PM.

Tom

Hi Dave. I was already moving my WM18B twice and as mentioned above, you'll benefit from a help of a second person. On a first time I've took a head off first, than table, saddle and finally a column. On a second time when I was moving a workshop I haven't took a column off as from what I remember it was fiddly to put a gas strut back on.

To take a head off, take a quill handle off first, then get someone to assist you when loosening 3 head bolts. Now you can twist head 90° clockwise, lock it in that position and lower it onto two wooden blocks resting on the mill table. Twisting head to horizontal position will give you a better access to the screws holding a head, after you take them out, slowly wind the table towards you to separate a head from column.

Taking a table and saddle of wasn't difficult, just make sure you mark a gibs before removing so they'll go back the same way after.

You can also separate a column from a base as together they're probably over a 100kg.

As for going over a grass, I had a two sheets of plywood and a small trolley to put a parts on.

Just take your time and remember, lift with your legs not the back!

Tom

Thank for all the input.

I will contact Warco as it worries me that machine doesn't always start "softly" now. I'm afraid it could be an early sign of serious failure.

Robin, regarding new space telescope, mirror actuators can move in steps that are a fraction of a wavelength of light (1/10000th diameter of human hair), that's some accuracy!

Tom

Hello,

I own WM18B with variable speed. Following manual I always set speed to minimum before switching on. Spindle gradually building up rpm from 0 to about 250 in a few seconds which I believe is called a soft start.

Recently I've noticed that very often motor gets on to minimum revs instantly when switched on. I wonder if this could have a bad effect on the motor or control board.

Machine is still under warranty but I thought it would be best to get some idea before I contact Warco.

Thanks

Tom

Hi Pete,

Attached is photo of Juliet article from ME with dims of the ash pan.

Well done Allan.

I've made exactly the same engine as my first project. If you want to make something a bit more challenging next, I suggest a twin cylinder double acting oscillator.

Tom

Here is my beam in humbrol no.20 crimson gloss.

I always recommend this one Link for beginners. It's a single acting oscillating engine and it doesn't require any castings. Great to start with and can be easy modified.

Hi Derek

Building the stuart beam engine by Andrew Smith .

Regards

Tom

They're always my first choice for taps, dies and drill bits.

Myfordboy also built a Cracker locomotive which might be of interest. Look it up on YouTube. I can suggest building a simple oscillating steam engine and put it into a small boat. This could be easily converted to RC with couple of servos.

Tom

I had a phone call from UK mobile number earlier on this week. Very nice gentleman with very strong Indian accent said he's from BT technical department and reason of this call is that my modem sending strange signals? He asked if I noticed that my internet was slow recently, "Oh yes" I replied. So he said that he can solve the problem and I really wouldn't mind if he could speed up our broadband a bit, only problem is we're not a BT customers since 2016!

I don't know where he get my mobile number from but exactly the same phone call I had this afternoon and guy was reading the same script as well. First number I've reported and blocked straight away but second phone call was from a different mobile number (UK as well)

There is an active listing on ebay with castings for Juliet Link.

If you want to save some money consider fabricating some of the parts instead of buying castings for them. For example pump stretcher and axle pump can be easy made from bar stock.

Hi David.

I've sourced castings for my Juliet from Kennions and cylinders castings from Reeves. Both good quality but one of the cylinders got tiny blow holes and had to be bored oversize to get rid of them. If you're on facebook it's worth joining Juliet builders group for any advice you might need during your build.

Good luck with your project!

Tom

Amadeal xj12-300, slightly over your budget bit I don't think you'll find anything else around £600 unless you looking at the second hand market.

You didn't say how much you willing to spend. I've bought this one last year and I'm very happy witht Link. It goes up to 120psi and got 6ltr tank. Also with 59dB you can comfortably sit next to it without any ear protection. Very handy to have in the workshop, doesn't take much space under the bench and can be easy carried around if you want to pump up bike tyres etc.

If you're on the budget you can use one of this airbrush compressors. Problem with those is that volume of air will be very low and they're getting hot after about 10mins of constant use.

Thanks guys for your comments. Re chimney: drawings for Juliet shows alternative chimney (shape I went for) although from what I could see suppliers only offer an original straight chimney. Luckily I found mine together with some other castings on ebay.

Hi all. Here's some photos of my Juliet started in 2019. It was start and stop build disturbed by other projects, house improvements, covid etc. Still far from finish, but now it's on the stage where I can proudly display it in our living room

Any comments are welcome.

Stay safe!

Hi Brian. I have db8vs, I'm guessing they will have same belts?