Member postings for Graham Meek

It has been a while since I posted anything on the Milling machine mods so I thought I had better give you an update.

This shows the fitment of some scales taken from a pair of cheap Aluminium Vernier Depth gauges. I has tried to get some 6 mm wide metric rules but these proved elusive at the time. In the end it worked out for the best as the X-axis Table Stops work better than I expected.

I have tried throughout to fit these items without drilling and tapping the machine. The Y-axis utilises the mounting hold down bolt holes to hold the scale and one of the feedscrew plate retaining bolts to hold the pointer.

The X-axis is piggy-backed onto the Gib adjusting screws. One Gib locknut can be seen in a clearance cut-out at the front of the aluminium bracket. The scale itself is held by two M3 cap head screws and these had to used tapped holes in the bottom of the old scale dovetail slot on the front of the table.

The scales from the vernier have an inverted Vee in one face. The table stops utilise this Vee to locate a 3 mm dowel which is held in the stop with Loctite. A hook like up-stand on the brass clamp stops retains the stop during adjustment.

This last view shows the brass block which holds the scale. A Tenon on the back of the block locates in the previously mentioned redundant scale slot.

It may take a little tweaking to get the set-up just right but that will come with time and usage. I have already noticed I am quicker when doing a co-ordinated hole pattern.

Regards

Gray,

My example of using Loctite to retain an Oilite bush was to show it does work. The amount of Loctite used would probably have only penetrated a few microns. Given most bushes have a 1 to1.5 mm wall thickness I do not think this is going to seriously affect oil retention.

When a machine is stood idle because there are no spares, or the lead time for a replacement is days away. Then it is a case of needs must, or you have to turn patients away. The bush was later replaced with a new one, but the original was extremely difficult to remove. Not wanting to use a drift on such delicate machinery I made a dedicated extraction tool. This work being carried out at the next scheduled service.

Regards

Gray,

I have secured Oilite bushes in the past with Loctite 638. This has usually been when the oilite bush has become loose in the bore during service and the machine is needed to be in use ASAP. Loctite will however close in the bore of a thin walled bush, so one needs to think about this.

I would imagine the bond would be be very good as the adhesive has an increased area of contact given the porous nature of the material. This will allow the Loctite to flow around the particles of the sintered material.

Regards

Gray,

Oilite bearings I have purchased from Amazon are variable in quality. Those I have purchased from Simply Bearings, (the usual disclaimer), have all been of excellent quality.

All Oilite bushes need to be inserted into a standard H7 Fit bore. When this is done the bearing collapses to the correct running fit on the shaft. If the bore does not conform to the H7 tolerances then you will have problems.

Oilite stick material is still available I have been told. This can with good tooling be machined to size. It is however very hard on HSS which may mean continued sharpening. Carbide tooling tends to rip the small bits of sintered material out of the structure of the material.

If you can get hold of a ball bearing of the nominal size this can be pressed through the bearing to size the hole. You will however need a very good press to do this.

I hope these notes help,

Regards

Gray,

I made a mistake with the Rocol reference earlier. Having found an old tube of the grease in the workshop yesterday, the correct reference is MTS 1000.

Molykote GN which I mentioned earlier was one of the many greases used to service the Radiotherapy machines or Linear Accelerators which were in the Oncology Workshops care. Being used in close proximity to the beam it never showed any signs of degradation, or drying out. It was never thrown about by the various gears it was used on.

Hence why I started using the same thing on my lathe changewheels.

Regards

Gray,

Back in the 1980's Myford used to supply a Rocol product, (I think it was MOS, or MS), which was similar to the spray on sort that you have. I have been using for many years Molykote GN paste, comes in a tube and I apply it with an artists broad paint brush to my change wheels.

It does stay put once applied and does not fly everywhere which is what tends to happen with some greases.

Regards

Gray,

Hello Jouke,

The only parts in this post which were made on my previous Emco machines are the main body for the Screwcutting Clutch, and the knurled Operating Knob for the Leadscrew engagement. Every thing else has been completed on the C5, the Proxxon mill or my restored Unimat 3.

I have been really surprised how good these little machines are. The C5 with 4 tool turret is easily as accurate as the Emco Maximat Super 11 was. Admittedly things take a little longer to make, but then the machining is the bit I like. My Unimat brings back many pleasant memories of when I was starting out in Engineering.

I have some additional turning toolholders for inserts for the C5 to make. A new base similar to the Unimat 3 for the Proxxon. As well as some linear scales for the X & Y slides and then I can get back to my model work.

Regards

Gray,

My views for what they are worth,

As regards competitions I do not bother entering, I have never won anything in my life, including arguments. As regards an English wheel, well for one thing I do not have the work for one. For another it would take up a lot of workshop floor space for only occasional use. I know Sam Lovegrove has a hankering for one.

I certainly do not think it would be appropriate for me to enter the JS Cup for several reasons.

As regards showing my workshop off, that is covered by Ady.

Readers tips are often given in my writing, but like all advice it can either be taken, ignored, or pulled to pieces.

Regards

Gray,

This view shows I have now completed all the new and replacement Dials for the Compact 5.

Here is the Tailstock dial which started the ball rolling in the first place.

This is my take on the Leadscrew Dial. I decided to stamp the numbers as per normal practice. Unlike the original dial which has the numbers parallel to the leadscrew axis. I had made provision for stamping the dials to comply with the original, but it involved a lot of extra work. If I cannot get on with this new set-up then I can always bite the bullet and make a new dial.

The cross slide dial is a much better fit as regards the gap between the dial and the endplate when compared to the standard dial. All dials are much smoother in use with none of the sticking that was present with plastic on plastic.

When I fitted the Retracting Topslide attachment I thought my original adjustable dial that I had made for the Unimat 3 Restoration looked a little on the small side. I therefore decided to make a new larger version which follows the rest of the machine. The new dial does allow the numbers to ascend in 0.2 of a millimetre. This could not be done on the original Unimat dial as the numbers all ran into one another.

I hope to post the restoration of the ailing C5 Tailstock soon.

Regards

Gray,

Hi Neil,

Morton's should have realised the running costs involved when taking over this magazine. I don't buy a car with a V8 and expect others to fill the tank.

I see an Elitist Forum in the future, one which will not attract anyone considering taking up the hobby. The funds needed to pursue this hobby are slowly being eroded away by the increase cost of materials, energy and the machinery needed to make things. Your "Paywall Fee" will be something that will eat into the Workshop Budget, as it is only going to get more expensive to renew as time goes on, hence the Elitism.

I know of several Model Engineers who have already gone over to making things from wood, due to the high cost of steel.

I also foresee the "Disposable Income" will soon be a thing of the past.

Regards

Gray,

It strikes me that Morton's are shooting themselves in the foot if the install a "paywall". My contribution will stop when this happens.

Regards

Gray,

GHT's 4 Tool Turrets have served me well over the years.

The one I had on my Maximat Super 11 was also fitted with a self indexing attachment.

It was fitted with two additional face cams which returned the turret to the 90 degree position. This did not mean the Turret could not be set for any angle in between.

The addition of a one way clutch in the underside of the lever meant the turret started to index as soon as the lever was undone.

This a non-self indexing version I have fitted to my current lathe the Emco Compact 5. Repeatability is very good even in this small version.

Because of the inbuilt rake angle on the Tool holders there is no need for any packing. The underside step on the Tool holder means each Tool holder can be removed and replaced at will, with no loss of position. All the benefits of QC but the advantage of 4 tools at my disposal before I need to change.

The Parting blade and Boring tool holders are automatically on Centre height.

Regards

Gray,

When in the 1980's and I was starting out with my home workshop, I did offer the design of the Handwheel Dial and the Screwcutting Clutch to Myford's, in exchange for a 254, but it was declined. I suspect the cost for them to manufacture such an item would have been mind boggling. Myford, bless them, did make me an offer on a 254 which I could not refuse.

I have over the years been told by several people that the Handwheel Dial was made by Myford's, which is what I was aiming for when I designed the item. There are of course red faces when I say "I don't think so, as I designed it".

Regards

Gray,

Hi Ega,

The standard Myford thrust race remains, but an additional Needle Roller thrust race has been added. You can see this in John's 3D view, it sits between the Oilite Bush and the Input gear. The Input Gear and the Thrust race actually share the same recess.

This was added to help with ejecting Morse tapers. This was catered for on the original Handwheel with a large contact face. This face had to be reduced to take the Sleeve Gear that carries the Dial.

Fitting the Needle Roller Thrust race on it's own improves the feel, and makes for easier Morse taper removal

I hope this makes things clearer,

Regards

Gray,

Hello Martin,

That is a nice job you have made of the Tailstock Dial. The fitment certainly looks as though it has always been there as Myford had intended.

Home Shop Machinist is currently running an article on this Dial with due reference to the original article in MEW No 279. I also understand this will soon be available commercially.

Regards

Gray,

Following on from John's 3D image here is the Embryo Dial in-situ on the lathe. Work can now start on engraving the dial as the Dividing attachment is now finished

This first photograph shows the stand alone unit and how it drives the original C5 Dividing attachment. The worm gear is shown being screwcut earlier.

This is the unit bolted in position. The next view shows the additional dividing plates and a spare wormwheel, along with the homemade single point cutter. The detent has a hold out facility like most larger dividing heads, which avoids the detent being held out of engagement when doing multiple turns of the worm.

This last photograph shows work is about to start on the engraving of the Tailstock dial. Which hopefully will be followed by new dials for the cross-slide and leadscrew.

This is where the C5 and Proxxon merge, note the adaptor plate beneath the Dividing attachment. The complete attachment is on dowels to locate off the central Tee Slot. Thus it can be removed and re-fitted at will. A single dowel that the Dividing attachment abuts in the adaptor plate. Along with the step in the adaptor plate means the Dividing attachment can be removed and returned to the adaptor plate with out the need for clocking.

Regards

Gray,

Edited By Graham Meek on 16/09/2022 17:11:36

As regards making a new spindle the socket would be the last thing to do in my book. There is always a very good chance with the amount of material being removed that the new spindle will distort due to the locked up stresses in the bar stock. Far better to rough out and finish machine such an item.

This is how I made the spindle below,

Regards

Gray,

In an earlier post I did mention how to check to see if the spindle is bent. I would check this first before I did anything else.

You are half way there with your set-up above.

Also if the run-out on the taper test bar is getting progressively larger away from the spindle nose then this will also point to a bent spindle, but, it will also point to a Morse taper that is not true to the spindle centre-line, i.e. at an angle.

To check the quill bearing registers set one bearing inner face on a circular parallel, (Old ball bearing outer races are good for this). Using your DTI clock the exposed bearing inner face. You are only interested in the face alignment with this test.

In the vee blocks rotate the quill to check for run-out of the outer bearing diameter registers. Mark any high spots on the outside of the quill with a magic marker pen.

If the run-out is the same magnitude and in line then do not worry.

If the run-out is 180 degrees opposite then you have a problem. It is salvage-able but only if you have the equipment.

If the faces are out then it is a case for setting up in the lathe with a fixed steady and skimming the face or faces. This set-up will also allow you to bore the bearing diameter register oversize and insert a sleeve to correct the 180 degree problem.

Regards

Gray,

To prove if it is the bearings at fault rotate the spindle in a matched pair of vee blocks. The bearing registers resting on the vee block. If you get the same run-out it as was present in the assembled spindle and then it is not the bearings.

Also put a clock in the centre between the bearing registers and see if there is a high spot. Mark the high spot with a felt pen. Move either side to see if the readings are the same or less.

If the readings are the same magnitude then it will be safe to assume this portion is running out from manufacture.

If the readings either side are occuring at the same point but are less then the spindle may well be bent.

If the high spot in the centre is opposite the low point at the Spindle nose then this would confirm it.

Hope these notes help,

Regards

Gray,

Edited By Graham Meek on 09/09/2022 11:09:57

Hi Robin,

When we had our "not so smart" meter fitted first. It was sited in the Larder, a) to be out of the way visually and b) it was the only available plug.

The Larder is about 3 m from the main fuse box / meter, and 1 m from the outside gas meter, but of course there is a cavity wall in the way.

This set-up would work, but very intermittently. One such period of non operation involved switching the mains off and re-booting.

The smart meter is now sited less than 1 m from the main fuse box but 3 m, plus wall from the gas meter. Even here it has not been without problems. The last time it was going to need a new meter fitting. However the threat of having it all taken out and going back to the old system seems to have sorted it out.

The meter never displays the correct tariff and is thus always priced higher than our actual consumption.

Don't you just love progress, the old meter had given 50 years of trouble free service.

Regards

Gray,