Member postings for Ron Laden

Well I would never have imagined that you learn something every day, obviously works very well as you have shown.

Thanks Jason

Wow, I can see why it looks so good with that amount of effort and the techniques and methods used, impressive stuff.

As Craig mentioned you could show someone the engine and tell them it is years old and no one would doubt it.

I forgot to say its also a very sweet runner responds really well to a change in heat level, very good.

Mustard resist.??

Ron

That really is superb Jason, that looks to be very well used and years old and none of it looks as if it has been added, it looks like genuine age and general wear and tear from years of use. For me what makes it work so well is that you have covered every part from top to bottom and not just odd bits here and there.

Can I ask how you did the chipped paint work and also the discoloured bare steel its so realistic.

Great stuff Jason, some excellent work there.

Ron

I have the ARC Versatile 80mm vice and I can't fault it and at the price it represents great value for money. Like most I never use the swivel base so removed it which on the 80mm reduces the height by 30mm. I have not needed to do any deburing on mine I used it straight out of the box. I also went around it with a test indicator checking from both open to closed and it's as good as I will ever need.

No connection with ARC just a very satisfied customer.

Al the windows and screens fitted I used 2mm acrylic which I glued in with R/C Modellers Canopy Adhesive, first time I have used it but it's very good. Grabs hold in 3-4 minutes and dries crystal clear, should you have any that needs removing then a damp cloth shifts it completely with no residue. Another new to me product I, m about to use is Humbrol Maskol (liquid rubber like solution) for masking off the windows, apparently its very good.

So about to start weathering the body working from the roof down, airbrushing using some roof dirt paint and others then with the body on the chassis working the frame and bogie finishes into the lower body and blending in.

Hi Ken

I had the same fault on the mini lathe I had (not Warco)

It turned out to be a dirty speed control pot, I didn't have any circuit cleaner at the time so gave it a squirt of WD40 which did the trick. After working the pot back and forth a few times it came back to life and had full speed control. The pot has a slot at the base of the 3 connection tags, that's where to spray in the cleaner to get it inside.

Ron

I am surprised after switching on the start the driver got out of the cab and left it unattended, is that allowed..? I would have thought not but maybe it is.

Morning Jason

The base looks great I like the shape and the look you have achieved there. I am amazed at how just 40 minutes in the Brickclean de-scales the steel to a bright finish I would never have imagined that until you told me about it.

Ron

If it helps you can get clear acrylic discs in various thickness and a range of diameters from a well know site. I am guessing the window trim will be turned to captivate the window but should you need to glue it then R/C Modellers Canopy Glue is ideal.

Ron

Hi Vivieene

I went back and checked the Lincoln Society website and some good news they do allow youngsters and have a Junior membership.

Ron

Hi Vivienne

You do have a local engineering club at Lincoln, The Lincoln Model Engineering Society.

If you google them and go to their website you can find more information, I had a quick look and they have 1/3rd of a mile of track. They have a video section on the website which includes some footage of loco,s running at the track which should interest your son.

It would certainly be good if he can join as a junior member, an engineering club is an ideal starting point for him.

Ron

Thanks Jason, I do have a couple of spotting drills but never thought of using them as Vee cutters, makes sense when you look at the business end of a spotting drill. It also seems obvious to hold the work vertical and plunge cut the half circles, only thing is it wasnt obvious to me until you told me..lol.

Hi Ian

At least I know I,m not seeing things, not that it matters of course the thumb screw looks fine. I like that idea grooves rather than knurling, I need a pair for something thats coming up and I dont have a knurling tool so will give that a go.

Ron

Should anyone be interested something else I came across in the paint line is some weathering paint at a very good price. I found a MIG Ammo railway set of 6 colours in water based acrylic, it is actually a track weathering set but I thought it would also serve for some of the loco weathering.

Priced at £14.95 and free postage makes each of the 17ml bottles £2.50 each which is half the price of most of the weathering paints of a similar size. I got it via ebay but the supplier is Jadlam Models UK. MIG do a large range including sets for military vehicles and aircraft as well as 160 colours and other items.

The railway set is Track Rust, Old Rust, Medium Rust, Matt Black, Dust and Earth

May be of interest.

Edited By Ron Laden on 14/02/2021 09:48:47

Ian, I must be missing something but the end mill will cut a 90 degree V wouldn't it but the V,s in the final picture look less than 90..? or at least that's how it looks.

Ron

Should any of Jasons engines take your fancy I would highly recommend making a start on one.

I have only been into ME for a couple of years so not that much experience but last year I built his Jowitt Popett Valve engine which went well. I am also 90% through his Muncaster Entablature engine which will be finished when I,m clear of my loco build and the Muncaster is also going well so far.

The bonus with Jasons engines are his build threads which have lots of pictures of the set-ups and tooling used, plus the instructions on how to produce the parts and on some parts alternative methods should you not have the tooling. The drawings are very good to, not all squeezed onto one large confusing sheet but spread across a number of sheets, even quite small parts will only have 5 or 6 related parts on one sheet which is very helpful.

Good luck with whatever you decide on.

Should any of Jasons engines take your fancy I would highly recommend making a start on one.

I have only been into ME for a couple of years so not that much experience but last year I built his Jowitt Popett Valve engine which went well. I am also 90% through his Muncaster Entablature engine which will be finished when I,m clear of my loco build and the Muncaster is also going well so far.

The bonus with Jasons engines are his build threads which have lots of pictures of the set-ups and tooling used, plus the instructions on how to produce the parts and on some parts alternative methods should you not have the tooling. The drawings are very good to, not all squeezed onto one large confusing sheet but spread across a number of sheets, even quite small parts will only have 5 or 6 related parts on one sheet which is very helpful.

Good luck with whatever you decide on.

Ah yes I forgot that part

Sorry, we had better get back to Colin,s engine.

Can't quite remember where, I think maybe one of Jason's engines but the wooden floor was run diagonally across the base which I thought looked really good and different to, just a thought. 

Edited By Ron Laden on 08/02/2021 07:40:04

Very impressive I admire your patience and ingenuity in making those tiny parts, great stuff.

Ron