Member postings for Ron Laden

Thanks Werner for sharing the videos, I enjoyed them. I think your Fire King is very good indeed, you have done a great job with it and it is something a bit different...very nice.

Ron

Andrew, as mentioned previously my CJ18a and your Warco Super Mini look to be almost identical machines so I am surprised yours doesnt have a saddle lock as mine does. I dont like the naff little handle on mine and intend to change it but the lathe does have the means of locking the saddle to the bed.

Edited By Ron Laden on 22/09/2018 21:18:37

Edited By Ron Laden on 22/09/2018 21:25:03

Sorry for the not too good a picture of a test piece and the guide rod using the method that Mick put forward, it is really easy to do and works a treat...thanks Mick. Good thing is of course, you get repeatable results when producing more than one item. I just have to get some better material before I machine the buffer set, the stuff I have been given is awful, dont know what it is but terrible to machine.

Andrew,

I have a CJ18 mini-lathe which is almost identical to your Warco Super Mini.

The cross slide backlash on mine is 0.1mm and the top slide is 0.13mm and like Michael and Andrew I dont worry about it. When I got the lathe (my first) I did worry a bit about it but from reading and youtubing soon realised that adjustment can reduce it but not lose it altogether.

Thanks Michael, I didnt realise that.

Ron

Sorry, dont know why my above reply is in miniature, cant seem to change it..?

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 21/09/2018 15:26:45

Edited By Ron Laden on 21/09/2018 15:28:14

Edited By Ron Laden on 21/09/2018 15:53:52

Rod, just a thought but I prefer WBP ply over OSB sheet as it gives you a smooth surface, you can get OSB with a smooth side but it is more expensive. I dont think the cost difference between WBP and standard OSB is that much.

Ron

Still plugging away, fitted the engine door hinges, handrails and the vent panels. Used 1.5mm ali welding rod for the handrails and cable tie ends for the hinges, they are about right size wise and I think they look ok. I think the vent panels on the full size is a grid of small mesh but I havnt found anything yet that fits the bill...any suggestions welcome..? I have slipped in a couple of pieces of 3mm plastazote for now to give some idea.

Edited By Ron Laden on 20/09/2018 14:58:41

Well I,m hoping the 1.5mm tool and holder I have just ordered will be ok.

Its a 8mm holder said to be suited to mini-lathes so fingers crossed.

Thanks guys,

Looking at the pics of 08,s they dont seem to have particularly large buffers, I thought they would have been larger.

Of course the 0-4-0 is not scale just pinching features from the 08 and I am guesstimating the buffer diameter to be around 15 inches so going with 1.25 inch.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 20/09/2018 13:14:21

Thanks Bazyle, I have found that the 3.2mm tool works well as a grooving tool. I tried it on a sample yesterday in prep for turning the buffers. I didnt take too heavy a cut but it worked fine in elongating the grooves at the different diameters of the buffer ram and ram body.

Thanks Andrew

Ron

Thanks Hopper, that sounds a good approach too.

Ron

Thanks Bazyle, that sounds good.

Cheers

Ron

I am about to turn a set of alu buffers for the 0-4-0 loco.

The buffer face is convex, can you tell me a way of producing that on my mini-lathe.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 20/09/2018 09:36:26

Thanks guys that is helpful, I was obviously parting with too high a speed, I didnt reduce the speed from the speed I had been turning with.

The aluminium parts are 20mm diameter and the 3.2mm parting tool seemed heavy for that size, but it is the only parting tool I currently have. I have just ordered a 1.6mm HSS tool with holder which I hope is more suited to smaller jobs.

Ron

The parting tool in my HSS set is 3.2mm with a straight cutting edge, is there any advantage in putting a slight angle to the cutting edge. Parting off some aluminium this morning and I was getting a bit of chatter, the tool is sharp with a good edge and wondered if a slight angle would help.

Also using the correct speed or near as damn it for turning and facing a given size of material is that speed good for parting or should the speed be adjusted when parting..?

Ron

https://www.steelroofsheets.co.uk/categories/pvc-plastisol-roofing-sheets/

Link above, my mate bought his local but if you google PVC coated steel box sheet there are numerous suppliers of which the above is just one.

Hope it helps

Ron

I realise that the OP was reference plastic cladding but last year I lent a hand to a friend who built is own workshop and he clad the outside with PVC coated galvanised steel box sheeting. He argued that the steel cladding worked out half the price of the plastic cladding he had considered.

He started with a concrete base then built a 100 x 50 treated timber frame, he then filled all the frame work with 50mm polystyrene sheets and lined the inside with 12mm WBP ply. The outside was then covered with more of the 12mm ply so he had a ply -polystyrene - ply sandwhich. The outside walls were then clad with the PVC/Steel sheets (coloured dark grey) and I thought it looked really good, certainly workshop like. Having now had his first winter in the shop he said it was "snug as a bug" in there.

His workshop is free standing and I guess if you are attaching a shop to your house or garage you would have more pleasing lines and finishes with plastic, but I didnt think his shop looked out of place in his garden.