Member postings for Bill Phinn

Just to round off this thread, a quick word on how the new bearings I put in have been faring after nearly a year's use.

I opted for an Oilite bushing in the end which I cut two 6mm thick slices off before milling out the internal diameters to size on a rotary table.

I'm pleased to report that after probably 50-60 hours of use, including some full day sessions involving cutting thick privets with some stems over 15mm thick, the bearings are performing very well, with no noticeable wear. One further advantage over the original bearings (apart from them holding up better) is that there's noticeably less friction in the gear box, so the blades reciprocate slightly faster and the gearbox gets less hot in use.

Thanks again for everyone's contributions.

Hence hospital parking charges do arguably contribute, for many of the older generation particularly, to the effect rising costs are having on our interests.

I can see no need to defend hospital parking charges, especially when some hospitals charge disabled badge holders whose disability means they cannot use public transport.

Life in the UK today is not just about rising costs but costs for more and more things that previously were free.

This may be a useful starting point.

Well done, John. The wood still looks very clean in spite of all the filings etc. that must have got in to the grain.

It's nice to see that low-tech toys are still valued by some people at least.

Maybe it's just perspective, but the channel and hoop diameters look substantially wider than circa 10mm to me.

As others have suggested, a long piece of dowel wrapped in sandpaper and a drill, or maybe an extended-shank drum sander if you can contrive one, would be my attempt at a solution.

To keep costs down, presumably, but still allow you to use the machine for some things when starting out.

An ER collet chuck would have to be supplied with at least several collets to be useful, and direct collets would have to number more than one for the same reason. These are both more expensive options than a drill chuck.

The pictures show three brass finishing tools for bookbinding that I had engraved a while ago. The second picture shows the middle tool impressed through 24 carat gold leaf on to goatskin.

The tools are all less than an inch square. The two on the left were engraved using a manual pantograph, the one on the right using CNC. The pantograph-engraved tools are cut considerably deeper than the CNC-cut one.

Unless you get the temperature, pressure and dwell time exactly right and the wood is a close grained variety, you may lose a lot of detail if you are using your proposed one-inch tool for branding.

EtA: the brass in all three cases is CZ121.

Edited By Bill Phinn on 23/06/2022 22:10:28

Thanks for your reply, Neil. Because I don't work in the Australian outback among the red dirt, or anywhere similar, I returned the Hazet. Hazet themselves haven't replied to my inquiry.

In place of the 19mm I bought a whole set of long spanners by Toptul, a Taiwanese manufacturer.

I've attached a photo showing the jaw opening of the Toptul 19mm and one of the whole set alongside the Hazet.

The Toptul 19mm is 347mm long, which is a shade longer than the Hazet.

Like the insistence that it's not a lubricant, this too is a myth, Dave - again according to the manufacturer.

Edited By Bill Phinn on 17/06/2022 21:17:32

The manufacturers seem to think it is:

https://media.wd40.co.uk/app/uploads/2020/11/24085047/EUF0002_EN.pdf

Thanks to everyone for the further replies.

I emailed Hazet on 14th asking what their own target range of jaw opening is for a 19mm spanner. I've not yet received any response. I'll wait till next week and if they don't reply I'll just initiate a return.

As an alternative to the Hazet, I'm toying with getting a "Britool Hallmark CEXM19". If anyone has any experience [good or bad] of Britool Hallmark CEXM long spanners, I'd be interested to hear more.

I might have gone for a 19mm "Stahlwille 14" long combination instead, but at only 265mm long that hardly qualifies as a long pattern spanner in my book.

Thanks for the replies, Clive and Dave.

That's useful information, Clive. It looks like the Hazet is very top-side at best.

Dave, the spanner is from Amazon [where the others were bought from], and it is clearly marked 19 [see picture with the Draper].

I've attached some pictures, showing four different 19mm spanners [first the Hazet, then Draper, Yamoto, Kamasa] and, for further comparison's sake, two 3/4 spanners. The Hazet, at 19.35/19.36mm, seems to be a radical outlier.

I recently bought a new HAZET 600LG-19 combination spanner.

The open end is a very sloppy fit on M12 19mm hex nuts. I measured it with calipers and it is 19.35mm AF. All the other 19mm spanners I own are around 0.15mm narrower than this, and a much better fit on the nuts I've used them on.

I don't fancy using an extra long spanner, which is what this is, with this much slop on a 19mm fastener, and I plan to return the spanner to the seller.

Before I do so, can anyone tell me what the DIN standard stipulates as the maximum permitted jaw opening on a 19mm combination spanner?

I already have a 10mm and a 13mm in the same Hazet range, and there is no problem of the present kind with either of those.

I had to think about it too.

English usage is to blame for being slow to catch up with decimalization; "a few dozen" sounds natural: "a few tens" doesn't - yet.

If the piece you're cutting is too short for a pipe slice, square off the end, cut a piece off with a hacksaw slightly longer than needed, fit it on the wooden handle squared-off end first, then make the protruding excess of copper flush with the wood using a belt sander and/or file.

I prefer brass tube to copper for ferrules. It ages more pleasingly besides being a slightly tougher metal.

If you were going to mount a vice on the table most of the time, the vice could sit centrally and just avoid the scar. In this case, the scar being there would be no practical problem whatsoever.

It's hard to tell how damage like that would have happened. It looks at this distance like someone was milling a slot with a blunted drill bit whilst moving notionally in the Y direction but with small deviations in X and Z.

The "original" variety of JB Weld would be even better if it came in shades other than dark grey. Wood-coloured shades would be particularly useful. Sadly, KwikWood and WoodWeld, though you might think they fit the bill, don't have the same desirable properties as the original JB Weld.

Edited By Bill Phinn on 05/06/2022 17:05:11

I'm inclined to agree with you, Martin. My reply was primarily intended to elicit an answer from vintage engineer on how doable a single-point-cut internal POL thread would be on a basic mini-lathe.

Edited By Bill Phinn on 26/05/2022 21:24:28

Vallorbe, yes, Dave, but not that set if what you're after is general-purpose needle files; those are buffing files.

I've got the set myself. I paid £60 when I bought them almost ten years ago. They fill a sometimes useful niche between filing with an ultra-smooth toothed file (i.e. a no. 6) and polishing.

Edited By Bill Phinn on 26/05/2022 21:19:19

I only have a woodturning lathe at present, and I don't have the necessary taps, or the brass in a big enough diameter. Would it be straightforward cutting an internal POL thread on any mini lathe?