Member postings for Stuart Smith 5

My Warco WM290 was delivered on a pallet. The lathe was in a plywood crate with packing under it and this was sat on a standard pallet. The stand was in 2 cardboard boxes sat on top of the lathe crate. It had all been wrapped in plastic. Warco sent it via palletways, delivered to me by a local transport company. The driver used an electric pallet truck to move it to my garage. He would have put it into final place for me but I hadn’t cleared the space.

Georges (mechman 48) method looks the best idea if you can get the lathe and mill delivered in their pallets to inside your workshop.

I used an electric hoist to lift my lathe but this depends on having a suitable strong enough attachment point. New sling from tool station.

When I bought my WM16 mill I split it into 3 pieces to move - base and column, head and table.

Stuart

Derek

One thing to bear in mind whichever models you decide on is that they are all out of stock.

There is a note about this on the Warco website : **LINK**

If you want a lathe or mill from Warco you can ‘back order’ and they will reserve one for you. I bought a WM290 lathe earlier this year but initially started trying to buy last August. I then realised that they were all sold before they arrived in the U.K.

Stuart

Dave

That advert is for an independent school, so presumably they can choose to carry on with practical courses if they want/ have the funds for. I think they have links with the car industry as well.

I went to a Grammar school in the late 1960s which had woodwork and metalwork workshops. They were later closed and are now used as classrooms.

Stuart

Tristan

Just looking at the Denford site mentioned by Kiwi Bloke, I found this post with a manual attached.

**LINK**

Stuart

John Smith 47
 

It seems to me that all your posts are of a business rather than hobby nature. i.e. you seem to be asking everyone else to do your homework so that you can make commercial gain from their advice.

I understood that this forum was for hobbyists.

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 14/06/2021 15:28:42

Ian

This company might have something suitable. They list engraving laminate which looks like Traffolyte. I used to get engraved labels made from Traffolyte and it is quite rigid.

https://www.plasticstockist.com/Default.aspx

Stuart

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 14/06/2021 15:21:27

Jason

What type of pipe and fittings do you use? Is the manifold a commercial one or did you make it?

Thanks

Stuart

Peter

The current DRO setup you have looks like the ones sold by Arceuro. I am pretty sure they are capacitive type, the same as digital calipers. In fact they look like digital calipers but fitted with an output socket.

Unfortunately, they won’t be compatible with your new display unit which is designed for magnetic or optical scales which have a different output format.

I think you have 2 options : buy new scales or return the new display unit if possible and buy or make an interface to use your existing scales with the TouchDRO app using an android tablet as the display. I have this system on my mini lathe and on my mill. They both use diy interface circuits I made myself. I have used modified Lidl digital calipers on the mini lathe and Arceuro scales on my mill (though they are different to the ones you have).

Here is the link to the TouchDRO developers site: **LINK**

Stuart

Or I suppose a 3rd option : use them as they are.

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 28/05/2021 20:09:28

Those dollies are only any use on a flat and solid surface. They may be ok once you get the lathe into the workshop but not on the ground outside.

This is what I would do:

I would strap the lathe to the pallet , lay some boards or planks on the ground and use some round bars as rollers to sit the pallet onto. If the delivery is via palletways the driver should be able to lift the pallet up so you can get boards and rollers under it and then lower it onto them. Probably put some strengthening timbers between the top and bottom boards of the pallet. Then you should be able to easily roll the lathe on its pallet, moving the boards in front of it as required.

When you get it to the workshop use a bar to pry it round through 90 degrees still on the pallet on top of a board level with the workshop floor . Jack up each end the lathe in turn and put some blocks under each end of the lathe. Remove the pallet and jack the lathe down onto rollers and push it into the workshop making sure to keep the rollers under each part of the stand.

When I was at work, we moved transformers weighing a few tons and switchgear using this method.

Stuart

I think the current measurement is done by a Rogowski coil printed onto the circuit board, rather than a traditional current transformer.

**LINK**

and

https://www.analog.com/en/technical-articles/current-sensing-for-energy-metering.html 

Stuart

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 22/05/2021 12:55:42

Is it possible to trace the tracks from the connectors? Or test to known components .

Stuart

Wilson

I don’t have this board, but out of interest, I just looked on the internet and found these 2 pages which might help:

**LINK**

**LINK**

the second one is for Aliencnc board, but there are suggestions it is the same board with a different name.

Stuart

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 20/05/2021 10:29:53

Another vote for leaving well alone and getting an experienced person to look at it.

Daves post and suggestions may be ok for someone with electrical fault finding knowledge, experience and test equipment, but otherwise not.

The problem needs to be identified before rushing in changing parts.

Better to spend a few quid than not be here!

Stuart

I think this may be the sort of tool he is talking about:

**LINK**

Though I don’t think it would get hot enough for silver solder.

Stuart

This one might be suitable from CPC:

**LINK**

They list others as well.

Stuart

Adrian

Just a thought, but could you remove the head from the column by winding it to the top?

Stuart

Adrian

I have found that Grizzly tools in the USA have similar mills and lathes to the ones sold here. That also have very good manuals with detailed parts drawings etc.

I have had a quick look and this one looks like it might be the same as yours:

**LINK**

I don’t know if this will help you but I have a Warco WM16 and the Grizzly equivalent manual has a lot of useful info, so maybe you can work out what you need

Stuart

Michael

After checking that all the components are installed the correct way round.

I would suggest removing the uP chip and power up the board from a 5volt supply.

Check that the supply voltages around the board are correct.

It will be possible then to test the buzzer and display by using jumpers to simulate what the uP should do.

The other thing that occurs to me if all this is OK is do you need to start the clock by pressing the 2 buttons in a particular order?

Stuart

Just looking at Michaels link to the Newton Aycliffe plant, it looks like they don’t actually manufacture there, just final assembly.

Quote “ No actual manufacturing operation takes place at the site; it assembles components built elsewhere into completed trains. “

Stuart

You could try this contact:

**LINK**

He is listed as President of UPS UK operations.

I don’t suppose you would get a sensible response but it might be worth a go.

Stuart

Update - it may be that he has been replaced https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/ups-leadership-changes-europe-lou-rivieccio. 

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 07/05/2021 13:55:21

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 07/05/2021 14:05:09