Member postings for ron vale 1

I am beginning to bottle out of machining my radius rods from solid.

If they were 'flat' it be relative simple, but these have an offset of 9/32 ( in old money) between the c/l of the expansion link and the c/l of the valve rod, Plus there are two distiinct angles in the side view.

Does anyone konw of any chaps who have CNC that would be willing to cut these out in exchange for money ( and if so what would i be looking at, hopefully ,not open wallet surgery) i have the blank Steel, just need the expertise...lol

PM if you have any connections Plans can be given on autocad

TIA

I Order of seeing

Como ( several times and still find something new)

Fred Beards Lord of the Isles Dean Single

Back in 74/5 spent many hours in his workshop just watching and chatting, new to the hobby so getting all the advice i could. This loco had 2 articles in EIM The wheels were cut form solid, the crankshaft with its iirc elliptical webs also turned forn solid As Fred put it he started out with an 10lb billet and ended up up to me knees in swarf ( although he didn't use 'knees' and ended up with a pound and a crank that wont be seen!!

The only thing he didn't make was the GWR badge, but the small animals? each side he did do. Ran it one only on air.

the third and fourth are still under construction Greenglades Gresley A1 and Rogers 1500x

I have seen Peters in the flsh and it will be a winner, no doubt.

Rogers also i just hope they dont compete in the same year!!

Both have wll detailed build logs on the Model Eng forum. Rogers menthods have left me speechlees with some of the manching he does

Both well worth a few evenings reading

Type 4000 drill

Using a mandrel with the cylindrical sanding attachment( the ones that slide onto a rubber mandrel and you tighten them up)

Cleaning up Brass sheet with soft solder on it. suddenly revs drop from about 10k and starts to run very lumpy esp a low speed setting

Put it on high speed and runs ok. The 5k setting is more like 500 and very erratic

Could it have ingested some of the very fine brass and solder that has been removed?

And if it can be clean at home any suggestions

TIA

Bill

Thanks for that. Trust everything is ok?

Is there anywhere i can find to bore of gauge glass? 6 or 8mm OD preferred for 5in gauge loco

Tull

this could be an egg sucking exercise but converting Metric to imp and vv is as easy as falling of a log

If plans are works drawings in Ft/in and you are doing a 5in gauge loo then to convert to i(model) inches multiply the full size by 0.0885* to get scale length Assuming you are working to 1 i/16in to foot

The correct figure id 0.8855416667 !! lol

If you want metric equivalent the multiply by 2.248

to convert model plans inches to metric multiply the inches ( and decimal parts) by 25.4

if converting metric to imp then divide the metric by 25.4

Grindstone

Thanks Had a complete brainfart fort hem!!

^mm will be just the job

Is there anywhere that supplies files that are either 0.25in or 6mm thick

Am about to file the expansion link and liiftng link slots in the radius rod

Whilst the slotting is no problem, i need a file of that thickness to get the ends 'square'

Or is there a better way i am not aware of?

Thanks will suggest that they start doing one for the WM16

Jason

Any link so i can get an idea of what is involved please?

Serious question

I have a WM16 Has any enterprising chap got around to supplying a kit that you just bolt on ( with you doing all the grindy bits, as well as all the electrics that you can just plug in without taking a Masters degree in Physics.

I donr mind getting to grips with the programming side, but all that soldering!!!!!!

Or has anyone made up a shopping list of all the bits ( i can farm out the sparky side of things!!

Duncan Mea Culpa yes 0.1mm

Andrew

Have a look at a gap of 0.01mm., a gnats todger wouldn'tfit through it but the solder will When i got all my bit laser cut byMalcolm i drew them with that gap..no problem whatsoever, plus if too tight you can tweak it a bit but you cannot narrow it

I was scared of soldering, so i practiced on some scrap..No problems now

Cup alloys IIRC recommend a gap of 0.1mm

anyone out there got one ?. ATM it is doing my head in and must be the worlds dearest resetable cross slide dial

Having got the Myford running again. i was doing some work on the WM16

Whlist the vice may not be 100% parallel to the X axis, this would have a

occurred whether it was 100% spot on

Had to mille doen a length of 3/8 (wide) bar to 5/16 i took a cut on the rear face to suare it all off , then moved the work so i could now take the rest off to get it to 5/16

The cut was not parallel to the rear face, in fact the workpiece got wider towards the end Workpice in rih hand side pointing towards the right

Even if the worpice was at a larger angle off 'parallel' surely the two cuts should give the same width all down the work..

Now because of this it got me wondering about other thnigs so tonight i put the Digitl protraxctor on the bed with it resting on the Y dovetail ( hope that makes sense) it measured 0.00 degrees When i put it on the bed it showed 0.40.

I thenput a DTI in the drill chuck and spun it round 180 dgrees. The was a difference of about 20 thou ( i didnt check if it were + or -

Any thought how i might go about rectifying these 'problems'?

TIA

It hasn't been 'overworked' whatsoever

Edited By ron vale 1 on 24/07/2020 22:21:45

Case now Closed, and a VERY BIG public Thankyou to Malcolm, who 'held my hand' and got me there in the end

Thanks again Malcolm..I owe you a few beers

Ron

Malc

If your terminals on your Crompton are like mine Z, AZ, A T in the sequence Blue, Brown, brown, Blue that would be great

Ron

I have forearms like Popeye cranking the thing around by hand, and no monkey to dance to the music!!

Emgee

It is now back on the lathe and picture taking is a bit awkward!

The switch is a Dewhurst drum type that has forward and reverse

The Myford S7 manual (i think you get download it) on P19 Fig 25 shows the wiring diagram for such a switch

The motor sows four terminals A1 and A2 and Z1 and Z2

A1 is black and goes to Switch T5

A2 is black and goes to Switch T7

Z1 is red and goes to to switch T2

Z2 is red and goes to switch T6

My motor is a Brook Crompton Parkinson and has four terminals

Z AZ A T

Z is Blue

AZ is Brown

A is Brown

T is blue

I feel rather aprehensive of doing a 'i will just try this....' just in case i blow up half of Berkshire!

If you could say put this blue from Z on Terminal X and the brown from T on term Y

is really all i need.( plus the other two locations)

The change of terminal nomenclature threw me completely and the change of colour just put the icing on the cake!

Sorry, left off the bit where i found the diagram. It is Fig 25 on P19 of the Myford S7 manual