Member postings for Clive Brown 1

The packing on mine was cut from thin wood, probably about 3/16" thick. 4 pieces in all. Basically a rectangle with a slot for the bolt and a curve to follow the outline of the cast runner plates. I made a replacement from plywood. Anything slightly squishy would probably do.

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 05/11/2017 10:54:58

I have a 6" bench grinder with 2 wheels, coarse and fine, which I use for off-hand sharpening of HSS lathe tools and drills. I'm thinking that the fine wheel is becoming due for replacement but I'm not sure of the best grit size. The present one is OK in that respect, I think that it's 60 grit, but the label is unreadable.

Any advice appreciated.

Clive

The makers of my motor, TEC, specify 70 Hz for continuous operation and 100 Hz for intermittent, but I don't know the duty cycle though. These same limits seem to apply to both their 2 and 4 pole motors, so the max. allowable rpm for the 2 types will differ.

P.S. earlier should've said my motor was 0.75 hp, not kW.

Agree with most of above. I fitted a 0.75 kw motor and VFD to my 5" Boxford about a year ago. Previous motor was 0.5 hp SP. Very pleased with the outcome. I've set the max. speed at 75 Hz, ie 50% above standard so the motor will turn at 2100 rpm. If I turn the speed down the motor tends to lose torque, so I think that the larger motor would be better in that respect, but as said, you should change drive ratio for any long period at low speeds.

FWIIW, the components for my system, including wiring, remote push-buttons etc cost ~£230 UK source.

Why do you think ER collets are not suitable for this type of operation?

The reason I ask is that I'm currently thinking of making an ER20 holder for my Quorn T&C grinder for this type of job.

Clive

Nick,

OK, must say that the damper on my elderly Rapidor was never really very good and I eventually discarded it, but I didn't see it as being able to take much weight on the cutting stroke.

If Fizzy gets his to do as you describe then that's a good result..

Clive

Not sure that the damper will really do what you wish. Its basic purpose is to keep the bow slightly raised on the return stroke, to reduce blade wear, after the bow has been slightly lifted on the cutting stroke. This lift comes about due to the saw geometry, the blade is not quite parallel to the guides. Hence the work-piece will feel most, if not all of the bow weight at some point on the cutting stroke. The damper will not take very much at all irrespective of the oil or the valve adjustment.

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 01/11/2017 19:31:43

"Archimedes screws are left hand threads normally."

I was with my grand-son in an adventure play-ground last week.

There were two hand-operated archimedian screws lifting water from a stream several metres to the sand-pit. Both were right-handed, ie clockwise rotation at the top to lift water. All the children that I saw seemed to turn them the correct way without much thought about it.

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 30/10/2017 08:34:41

If you want 5" gauge, Simplex is worth considering. Straightforward to build, including the boiler and a good performer. The final choice is a personal decision, but I would think twice about taking on a very detailed prototype for an initial attempt. The fine detail can be quite trying and time-consuming to complete, leading to discouragement. OTOH, getting a loco "under your belt" gives confidence for later projects.

But it all depends!

I think that it would be the forming process rather than the grade that influences this. Hot rolled steel would deform more readily than cold-rolled or bright drawn steel.

There's a set of inside jaws for PB 3.25" 3-jaw currently on eBay for ~£45. Described as new old stock.

Don't know if they are the type OP needs.

No connection!

Clive

In a recent post, I mentioned hammer drive rivets. AFAIK, they can be purchased on-line. They are steel r/h rivets ad have a helix on their shank. They can be driven into a correctly sized blind hole. Might suit your need.

Chinese machines seem to offer a lot for the money, but a feature that I would be doubtful about is that many seem to lack usefully low speeds for some ME tasks. For example, the Arc SC4 referred to above has a lowest speed of 150 rpm. Not too good for largish iron castings IMHO.

My Boxford, as bought, went down to 38 rpm, lower now with a VFD., I've found this range very useful for, eg, the 9" drivers for my Princess of Wales and other jobs.

Boxford, plenty on s/h market, good design and doesn't attract the Myford price premium.

But I'm biased!

I've no expert knowledge of bearings from olden times, but weren't some made by casting white metal, or Babbitt "in situ" around the shaft? Cut them in half, and hand- chisel the oil grooves.

Don't make them like that any more!

An alternative might be hammer -drive rivets, steel, round head rivets with a fast helix on the shank to secure them. Available in a range of sizes, but you'll need to match the head size with the existing rivets, otherwise they'll stick out like sore thumbs.

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 17/10/2017 11:13:29

The figure of 33,000 is foot pounds per minute, (equals 1 HP. )

So your dimensions need to be in feet.

It'late, hope I've got it right!

Lathes.uk website list 26T gears for your Raglan. Fibre or cast iron @£42 (+ vat?). Ouch!

That doesn't look like a Perfecto machine. A feature of them was the gear quadrant and rack drive to the ram.

Unusually, the major components appear to be fabricated, still, as said by others, should be a handy deviceI don't think the limited cross-travel will be a major drawback.

My 4" Abwood dismantles just as you have tried. The leadscrew comes out with no difficulty. To remove the moving jaw from the dovetail slide, it's necessary to remove the jaw-plate, really needs a short or a cranked screw-driver.

If you did this, you might be able to slide the jaw back far enough to reveal the tee-nut, I'm wondering if you have something like a circlip on the end of the screw to prevent it coming out of the nut.

Again, on mine the nut is held by a countersunk screw visible on the under-side in the middle hole of the 3 you appear to have on yours.

Hope that helps.