Member postings for Clive Brown 1

Note that if the parting blade is tapered, then grinding from the top will reduce the cutting width. The tool can then be fed into the work, without risk of jamming, only to the extent of the ground length.

The "grooving tool" looks to be a poor shape, far too much rake on the top face. I'd grind it back and perhaps put on a much shallower rake of, say, 5 deg. or so.

Since the fault only occurs with the switch in the "forward" position, I'd see the switch or its wired connections as prime suspect.

Incidentally, take care when switching a Myford into reverse. the chuck can uhscrew with startling effect.

Hi Harry,

I did follow that your difficulty was with the album title itself. My post was due to my remembering that, years ago, I made some digital albums from vinyl LPs using Audacity. These will play from a USB stick in the normal way in my car , showing the title. Audacity is a fairly complicated piece of software however and I've forgotten the exact process that was needed.

I think the OP's problem might stem from the fact that his original CD is a compilation made by himself so won't be tagged or recognised as a commercial album would be. Really over my pay-grade but I think he might need a more powerful audio-editor such as Audacity, but that's a fairly big learning curve.

Mine measures 6"x 4" with the mounting boss centred 2.5" from one short side. Sorry, not for sale.

AFAIK, CDs don't necessarily hold much meta-data, maybe just track numbers. I rip my CDs to MP3 using Windows Media Player, but there are others.This process is quick and straight-forward. If the ripping is done on a PC that is connected to the internet, the ripping app will recognise the album and automatically download what extra meta-data it can, including art-work, (very clever! ). The resulting music files are then copied over to a USB stick and all the information will then be available to the car system.

All my in-car music is stored in this way and the sceen shows artist, track number, track title, timing etc Complete listings of all albums and artists are also available to allow choice.

I welded up my Boxford stand from 45 x45 x 6 angle. It's rigid, but don't underestimate the work involved, or the cost at to-day's steel prices. I found that quite a bit of corner bracing was needed, adding to the work. I had a mechanical saw, a huge help.

Ready-made would be my choice these days I think. I do have a Warco stand for my mill and I have no real criticism of that.

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 16/08/2022 20:51:02

I thought the tem "Fulham" referred to the flexible hose connection, not the quick release feature.If they were bought at different times they might be different manufacturers. If t'were me I think I'd keep them as matched pairs.

The self lubricating property of cast iron is important for cylinders etc. This is brought about due to the form and distribution of the graphite in the metal. SG iron has a different graphite formation, probably not so conducive to self lubrication.

What you really need is a Geo. Thomas Universal Pillar Tool. Invauable gadget. here

Not the same machine, but my Raglan mill recently developed similar symptoms. The feel of the gears was very rough and the handwheel difficult to turn. Proved to be the bevel gear mesh moving out of adjustment, ie too far into mesh. This was caused, in this case, by unscrewing of an adjustment nut at the top of the "Z" leadscrew next to the gear. Easily cured with a "C" spanner.

Maybe worth checking on your Senior.

Christopher Vine's methods are undoubtedly the councel of perfection with many excellent ideas but, I feel in a few respects , he is OTT for the average modelmaker. Follow his advice if you wish / can afford,, but my 5" loco. was painted over 3 decades ago without any blast preparation . All surfaces were thoroughly cleaned and degreased of course and brass platework was treated to the lightest spray of etch primer. The paint is still firmly in place.

I find that the greatest enemy of a good finish is avoiding dust. That needs a lot of care, especially where fairly large surfaces are concerned.

A further point, from your picture the pressure from the clamp bolt looks to be much nearer to the spacer than to the angle plate so the spacer is taking most of the clamping load.This type of arrangement needs to be the other way about, ie the bolt force nearer to the angle plate. This alone won't cure your problem in this case though. As said above, more / better clamping is still required. If your angle plate is of a type that doesn't have bolt-holes in one face, then I'd drill some or get a bigger one that does.

The larger tool sizes might add a smidgen of rigidity but really of little consequence for most home machining. For the normal run of model engine making, 6mm square HSS is perfectly adequate. I've owned a 5" Boxford for decades and virtually all my HSS useage, other than parting off has been with 1/4" sq. The largest that I have is 3/8" sq. and that is usually used only if large lumps of steel needs to be tackled. Don't under-estimate the benefit of easier/quicker grinding, especially when a profiled tool shape is required.

I heartily second the comment about ease of changing chucks which is one of the features that I value with the Boxford with its screwed mandrel nose. A swap-over takes just seconds. In a busy working session I might do that 2 or 3 times and the older I get, the more that such chores discourage me. Wish I'd got room for a 2nd. lathe!

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 07/08/2022 20:12:52

Having just fitted the rings to my "Centaur" gas engine, I've been reading E T Westbury's advice. He states that for this 1.5" bore the gap should be between 0.002" and 0.005".

The OPs gap of !mm seems more than plenty but I'd think that a steam engine is less critical than an IC engine.

Do you remember these?

Agree that you are very ambitious with your choice of project. Don't underestimate the cost of materials and the time required which will be in the thousands of hours.

Regarding machinery, no, you don't need a milling machine to build a loco, but then a milling facility in the form of a vertical slide for the lathe is essential.

It's also hard to do without a bench drill and a bench grinder. Smaller tools etc. can be acquired as you progress, but it's a lengthy list.

I.45mm dia. is a commercial drill size eg; here. Might be worth a punt to see if it cuts slightly oversize.

I'd try putting into the collet a throwaway piece of material same diameter the screw thread.. Cut a slot and then re-adjust the position by trial and error until it looks right. Then cut the actual screws; but I haven't got a DRO!

Not quite answering your question but I recently bought soft-jaws for a 5" PB 3-jaw chuck from Rotagrip. Quick delivery and cost abour £30 including postage.