Member postings for Pete Rimmer

JB Weld (not the quick one) is advertised as 100% resistant to petrol once fully cured.

The grooving holder has a positive stop behind the insert to give consistently very accurate depths to the grooves you would cut. The parting holder has no stop, so the seating depth of the insert can be affected by the cutting forces. You might start cutting a groove at the required depth but high cutting forces would cause it to sink back in the seat and then your grooves would be shallow.

I have a hoarder friend who never disposes of anything. He's not one of these people you see on TV with piles of junk filling every room, he just slowly collects mostly good/great stuff but won't ever let anything go. For example he has a Mk1 Capri he built and tuned when he was in his 30's which hasn't seen daylight in the 15 years that I've known him. It's worth a serious bit of wedge now but he'll never sell it.

I work on a '2 year rule'. If I have something that hasn't been used or utilised in the last 2 years, I get rid of it. Some certain things like tools are exempt but otherwise out it goes to make room for more useful stuff.

Or the REALLY amateur version...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_8OhjmWR0s

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 05/09/2018 07:20:47

Stuarts is still around but it's not layout blue, as I'm sure has already been pointed out. Layout blue dries out fully so it can be handled, engineer's blue is designed not to fully dry out, though if left on over several weeks can be a bit of a bind to remove.

Yeah that's my bike. It was only the second bike in the UK to crack 200mph on a totally standard engine. I owned it 12 years, started out bog standard, built two whole turbo systems for it and ended up making over 400hp

When I decided to sell it I waited a whole year for the right person to come along. Couldn't be happier for Andy he's a great guy.

Last week's meet my old bike was there and it's now-owner cracked 200mph for the first time. I got a nice text off him when I was at work.

I never went to Elvington myself, but I did quite a few top-speed meetings at Woodbridge.

Hey Windy, I see you're into your landspeed racing. Were you at this week's top-speed Tuesday at Elvington?

I have a wide piece of ground flat stock that I put between the knee dovetail and the back of the fixed jaw. I push the vice back snug against the plate,use the X and Y screws to position the table under the vice and tighten the bolts. Few things need better accuracy than that but if they do I use a mag mount and DTI on the front face of the fixed jaw.

Remove the motor pulley and turn the shaft so the keyway is not pointing towards the big pulley. Place a straight edge across the edges of the big pulley so that it extends up to the motor shaft. Put a small square on the straight edge and check if the motor shaft is truly perpendicular to the straight edge, which will make it parallel to the big pulley axis. If it isn't, loosen the motor and adjust it until it is. If the pulleys are now aligned and parallel, the belt will run true.

Once you have the motor pulley parallel to the big pulley use a marker pen to draw marks on the base along the motor feet. Then if you have to adjust the motor to tension the belt you have a visual reference to keep the shafts aligned, you just eyeball the gap from the line to the motor foot.

I fitted new felt wicks into a 100yr old Cataract lathe yesterday. I used 5mm round F1 felt. I see that there's a guy selling 1/4" diameter for £15 a metre. If you need it flat just flatten it out in some smooth-jawed grips/pliers. Mine needed to be flat one end and round the other where it dipped into the reservoir.

Ah, then the error is doubled as I'm sure someone mentioned previously.

Where are you Dave if you're close to North Kent I could pop by and assess it for you?

Therein lies the conundrum. If the cross-slide is not perpendicular you would still not see any dial movement by following the cutter's path with a dial gauge, which it seems is what's happening.

What it could be is that the slide or gib is worn or such a poor fit that cutting forces are deflecting the cross-slide where dial gauge plunger is not.

It's very possible but you have to make the presumption that someone with the presence of mind to measure for concavity in a face would also have checked for taper in their normal turning, especially if it's to such an extent.

The only thing to do is ask SOD:

Dave, have you checked that parts you turn which are held normally in the chuck for taper? If not, that is the very next thing you should do.

It does have the minor complication that a tapered part might be the result of a twisted bed whereas a faced part would be barely affected by bed twist if at all.

If you swept the face by mounting the dial gauge on the same cross-slide that you used to face the part with the tool, you should see no movement regardless of whether it's face is truly flat or not.. Since you do it points to a worn or maladjusted cross-slide.

I use magnets for collecting swarf in the tray of my hobber. I t stops th fine stuff from clogging up the oil pump thought I've just bought some paint filters to use when hobbing cast iron.

The only big drawback from using magnets is that they tend to magnetise all your tools, which in turn causes the swarf to stick to them and that gets very annoying. I have to have de-magnetising sessions every now and again.

A good shop vac is one of those essential tools IMO.

To clean up after turning cast iron I use a Numatic shop vac followed by washing down with brake cleaner in a pressure pot. The pots are 16 quid and 4 gallons of brake cleaner about £36 on offer. You can see it wash the finest particles away. you could use a trigger gun in a pinch but they don't last 5 minutes with brake cleaner in them.

After that re-lube with way oil.

I've got a hobber Michael. If you want to knock out the blanks I could cut the teeth, or if you're near North Kent you could come and cut them yourself.

Have to check that I have a .8mod cutter first though...

Tony you're quite right, I had a senior moment there. I'll blame it on the heat, or the hard day at work etc.

It's far more likely to be the column that's out of perpendicular to the y-axis ways. Does the column bolt to the base?