Member postings for Pete Rimmer

Type approval requires that speedometers read between -0/+10% so it will only ever read in your favour as far as complying with the law is concerned but it can be anywhere from bang on to 10% high.

What you do need to be aware of is that many don't apply the error in a linear fashion and in fact some speedos don't even have the digits printed in a linear fashion. For example I drive a VW where the numbers are set out in 10mph segments but after 80mph the scale is halved so the next '10mph' is actually 20. That vehicle reads about 5mph high from 50mph upwards but at 20mph it reads correct. It also over-reads more when heavily loaded I guess because the rolling radius is reduced as the tyres flatten out under the load.

Martin if the camera was one of those on the left gantry post it's unlikely that you got away with it.

Ha! I aquired one of those in a box of bits and couldn't identify it.

Thanks John

I'm going to presume that you are wanting to make a new cross slide screw for your ML7 which is 10tpi. Being an even numbered hread you can engage the half nut on any line on the dial numbered or not.

Surely that depends on the size of the holes?

I coudn't do the box-and-ladder one but for sure it has two possible solutions. Only the visual representation (and the fact that no-one would use such a low-angle ladder) suggests that the base of the triangle is less than the height. Mathematically there are two values of X where the line meets the cube.

Pilot holes should never be more than 1/4-1/3 the next drill size IMHO. Especially true for drilling a grabby material like brass.

I have absolutely no problem painting over any age of machine (I have a 1915 lathe stripped bare) because 1. It's unlikely to be the original paint any way 2. If it is it's highly unlikley to be the same colour as when it was painted and 3. they were probably not so particular about the exact shade when it was first built.

If you want to make it 'original' by stripping it bare and re-painting it's a lot of work. There's likely to be a LOT of filler on those castings and many hours of filling and sanding ahead. If it were mine and given the way it's been previously treated, I'd be tempted to de-grease it and then run a DA over the paintwork, fill in the divots, sand back, filler primer and re-paint in whatever colour suits you.

I'm currently rebuilding a TOS milling machine which is about 5-8x the amount fo work you have there. Currently 5 full days in and I havent even got the main body of the machine home yet, just the anciliaries and I'm still doing filler.

Be very sure that there's enough clearance behind to knock the pin completely out. If you knock it half way out and it hits the housing behind, you will neither be able to get it out nor turn the shaft to knock it back in again.

If the collets are ER type you have to load the collet into the nut before you put them into the chuck. The face of the collet should sit at or very close to the face of the nut. If it doesn't, you probably don't have the collet fitted correctly.

Another good book that can be found as a downloadable pdf is "A treatise on milling and milling machines" By the Cincinatti Tool Company.

Archive.org link

This is of recent interest to me as I have just bought a FN22 which has horizontal spindle, two vertical heads, slotting head, fixed table, 3-way moving table and indexing attachment.  It's a bit scruffy but it's undergoing a full restoration as we speak.

Pete.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 09/12/2021 13:32:44

Noel the Eagle grinder has wheels which mount directly to the arbor on the shaft, rather than fitted to a hub which then mounts to the shaft taper as most grinder have, so whilst it is always a good idea to balance a grinding wheel there is sadly no facility for it on the Eagle grinder.

Hi Malcolm.

Tracy tools do a 9/32" - 40tpi tap for £3. It's onlty 6 thou oversize, probably closer than you could cut that thread as a novice.

https://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-dies/model-engineering-taps-dies/9-32-x-40-tpi-me

All the time i'm in the workshop I'm not running the central heating which is the no2 producer of NOX.

Being in the workshop is good for the environment!

3.0/3.5 is 6/7 so take any driver gear that has teeth which divide by 6 and swap it for one with teeth of that result x 7.

So if you have a 30 driver in your train swap it for a 35. If you have a 36 driver swap it for a 42 etc.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 23/11/2021 17:21:21

Just another 'common myth' that makes sense until you think about it properly. A 15amp charger isn't going to distort plates that deliver 120amps to the starter.

Fast charging might warm the battery up and cause the electrolyte level to drop over a long period.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 23/11/2021 14:37:34

I keep a couple of spokes for that very reason. I have also found that you can screw the red straw from the spray cans of penetration oil straight in to many dial gauge threads if you need a makeshift extension.

Momentary distraction vs impaired everything? Doesn't equate IMO. I'm not advocating using a mobile whilst driving I'm just pointing out that a person not drunk is capable of risk assessment and normal judgement whereas a drunk person loses inhibitions, judgement, co-ordination and the ability to rationalise correctly.

If a 17mm spanner fits them then 11/16" AF will fit them too.

I should think that adding Surface Mount Resistors would reduce the power available not increase it

That screw is for a model A or B but it'll work in a model C all the same. Could be that someone swapped it out.