Member postings for Jim Nic

Plumbing done on the Rocking Valve engine:

And, hopefully, a bit of video of the first run:

https://youtu.be/wc0bhx2L9lo

Jim

Edited By Jim Nic on 06/06/2018 17:05:52

Edited By JasonB on 06/06/2018 17:07:21

George

You may have to do a bit of head scratching to combine the exhaust ports on your Vertical Cross because looking back I see you have done them to plan and put them on the side of the valve chest. I had planned to combine them from the off and so put mine in the face of the chest so that a simple cover plate and some longer studs made it easy.

The additional cover plate has a shallow groove in the back covering the 2 ports and then a hole through from the groove to the front with a connector flange silver soldered in.

Jim

That looks good George (but then, I would say that wouldn't I?)

How is it running now?

Jim

Who, other than Neil, thinks that using "Loctite" as a generic term is, or has caused, a problem in the building of a model.

There is plenty of on-line information for the guidance of those unsure of the right adhesive for a particular application and surely part of the hobby is using one's own judgement and learning new things in making mechanical devices.

Jim

After the passing of much time it seems I have the semblance of a rocking valve engine.

My cosmetic "improvements" from Ray HasBrouk's original design such as visible crankshaft bearings, a different eccentric arrangement and a different connecting rod end ganged up on me.  The cumulative result is that the valve operating rod end is some 5mm outside the valve operating arm.  One solution would have been to bend the rod back into line but I don't normally like to see push rods with bends in them so I made an extended link.  It may stay, it may not.  

What I really need to do is either stick to designer's drawings or properly think through what I'm "improving".  A lesson learned.   

Next steps are to arrange the plumbing and the wooden  base, decide on a colour and paint it.

Jim

Edited By Jim Nic on 22/05/2018 11:53:40

Edited By Jim Nic on 22/05/2018 11:55:47

Joe

So sorry to hear your very sad news. Best wishes to you and your wife.

Jim

I'm another who would be interested, depending on location.

Find a possible venue, or better yet, a couple of alternatives, and I would guess there would be a more enthusiastic response.

Jim

Well done George.

, ,

Jim

Look on the bright side George, at least you don't have to worry about what your next project is going to be yet.

Jim

George

That's the same drawing as I used. I checked my engine last evening and there is no appreciable leakage past the valve at its operating pressure of less than 10 pounds per squinch.

Just a couple of suggestions of possible causes for your problem could be: incorrect valve dimension, a less than good fit between valve and bore, or incorrect positioning/range of movement of the valve. Given that the valve is made to drawing how closely does it fit the bore? If that is satisfactory is the throw on the eccentric correct and is the valve rod the correct length and set to move the valve at the correct time in the crank cycle?

Jim

George

I've checked my retained drawings and have noted no "improvements" to Stew's design so all I can say without stripping the engine is that the valve is made to drawing.

The valve chest is almost to drawing, the only changes are making it with a closed bottom end (rather than boring it all through and then plugging it) and putting the exhaust holes on the front face to facilitate a cover with an exhaust pipe.

Where is the leaking air in your engine going? My valve may also leak but any air could only go down the exhaust pipe and I wouldn't know! (I'm now going to have to go and check, of course)

Jim

George

I'm a little puzzled by your having problems with the spool valve on your Vertical Cross engine as in my experience they are normally simple to make and reliable. I have a total of 5 such valves on 3 different engines, all have used 6mm silver steel rod as the basis for the valves working in a 6mm reamed bore.

These from my Paddleduck are the most complex:

Good luck with the investigation, I hope whatever cure is required is not too drastic.

Jim

Fascinating and informative, thanks for showing us.

What is the blank made from and do you prepare the metal in any way? (Other than making it the size you need.)

Jim

The half diameter pin has not rotated out of position, it is designed like that so that the pin can be inserted through a close tolerance hole of the same diameter as the pin. When the screw is tightened the oversize half of the pin is pulled up and catches against the underside of substrate panel and the main body grips the patch. Hence the name "Gripper Pins". I still have a few from my aircraft fixing days.

Jim

Edited By Jim Nic on 26/04/2018 15:11:23

George

As a matter of interest, where do you get these castings from?

Jim

By 'eck, that looks a good machine now you've fettled it Stew.

I've never seen a shaper in action before but now I've seen yours I think I need one. It takes a decent cut off and leaves a fair finish as well.

Jim

Like this George?

I thought it looked better matched to the cylinder

Jim

STK

Why not ask them?

Jim

Welcome Paul.

Nothing at all wrong or annoying with newbie questions. Where in the world are you?, your location sometimes has a bearing on any advice offered.

Jim

I haven't made a lot of progress on the Hasbrouk Rocking Valve Engine of late. For one thing other priorities have got in the way and for another I haven't really taken to this project like I have with all my previous engines. However I like to finish what I've started so on we go. Here are a couple of "family shots" of the cylinder and crosshead and the crankshaft in its bearing pedestals.

I am making the engine smaller than the original drawing so the next step is the connecting rod and then I can confirm my dimensions and get the cylinder and crankshaft mounted on the baseplate.

Jim