Member postings for Phil Boyland

Ok that’s great cheers for the info. I’ll have a go myself first,

best regards

phil

Hi, can anyone recommend a motor overhaul place in the Derby area.

My lathe motor has developed an issue so need to get it looked at.
It’s a Tyco Crompton one for a Super7. When running it now makes a vibrating sound, although can’t physically feel any vibration and sometimes it does not spin at all, just buzzes. It’s getting upto speed no problem, just very annoying to use it in this state. Guessing bearings are gone but I’m far from expert on things like this.

Cheers
Phil

If you do intend to sell, provided you've done a great job and it looks lovely, it should not put folks off. Unless it was a hideous shade of course.

I recently restored my Fobco Star and sprayed it Aubergine(my favourite colour) as opposed to the usual cream. I think it looks the business so go with what you want

Only difference is in the saddle, apron and lead screw I believe.

I wouldn't panic just yet, highly likely it will just need some of the screws adjusting.

Using the Link above, start with screws 3, 9 and 11 and see how you fare. 9 & 11 are shimmed (item 6) and the bed may have worn enough to warrant some play which can be overcome easily with thicker shims. Myford do them at a price, or you can buy a selection of thin brass sheet* cheaper and do it yourself. Let us know how you get on.

*  I did this on mine buying a pack of 1, 2, 5 & 10 thou

For the dial, undo screw 39, remove the handle and dial and give it all a clean, its probably just gummed up or been done too tight. It just spins on the cross slide screw so nothing to go wrong as such.

Edited By Phil Boyland on 22/05/2019 08:01:32

Edited By Phil Boyland on 22/05/2019 08:06:35

Edited By Phil Boyland on 22/05/2019 08:08:29

Edited By Phil Boyland on 22/05/2019 08:08:47

Something sounds wrong to me with what you have described as on mine (84 green model) the drive is disengaged when lever to the right. Even when engaged it does not foul on belt cover.

Edited By Phil Boyland on 14/05/2019 09:18:14

If you can file a few bits off I can chemically analyse them in work and let you know compositions, should help you narrow down the possibilities.

I think they work on X Ray fluorescence principle(XRF) where as I am working on the Energy Dispersive X ray principle(EDX). I don't user the former, but you can only look at a whole sample with XRF so if you have several different materials present, it would not tell you the alloy just a % of the elements present that you would not be able to classify. This is more suited to samples you know already are only one material.

With EDX you can pin point a particular particle in a sample and get its composition. Excellent for jumbled up metallic debris in a engine filter for example..

Ok cool, will look out for a message.

Composition can be measured by measuring the x-rays coming off the sample whilst it's bombarded with electrons. This is a useful by product of the electron stream being used to create an image. Will send you a few screenshots too if you like as it always looks fascinating.......well to me at least. Science nerd!!

If you can file some off and post it I can check the chemical composition on our electron microscope in work for you.

All for free

When I restored my ML7 I went for deep red down the centre, which I thought looked the business. Also went for the same red on my late model green Super7 when I restored that. I'm not a fan of the yellow personally and if you plan to keep it, go for whatever you like I say.

There is a grub screw that holds it in place located on the left hand side of the apron. It’s quite deep down so you can’t actually see the screw itself, but just put an Allen key down and it will locate. From memory it’s about 3/16” but dont quote me on that. You only need to undo it a few turns as it sits in a groove in the cam body to stop it pulling out.

Edited By Phil Boyland on 20/10/2018 19:36:48

Edited By Phil Boyland on 20/10/2018 19:37:32

No need to turn diameter, just put a small chamfer on the end and use a split die at widest setting, then after first cut, run it down thread again with adjusting screw loosened off slightly. Check with a nut after each pass to check the fit.

I can take a pic inside of it if required.

Edited By Phil Boyland on 05/06/2018 22:47:04

The control switch is a Myford 85766, the same a Clive Hartlands in this thread.

**LINK**

Edited By Phil Boyland on 05/06/2018 22:46:35

Thanks Otley, will give it a try and let you know findings. I do have a reverse switch in the unit.

Will all 4 connections in my control switch be used or just 2 of them? (ignoring earth for now)

Another question, my ML7 had a 5 wire cable going to the control switch, so again following from the diagram, do I only need 3 core for this motor?

Thanks for the replies, so a few more questions,

I presume I fit the bare ends under the corresponding posts, then fit my new flex on top of them?

Following the logic of the diagram, which of the wires will then go to Z1 of the control switch as there isn’t one in the motor.

Hi there. Gotten myself a Super 7 and the motor wasn't attached so trying to work out what to do. I've kept my original stand and controller, a Myford one with emergency stop and the contacts are U1, U2, Z1 & U2 + an Earth.

I am after some advice on which motor wire is which as a tad confused on getting it plummed in. I'm not an electrician obviously, but am competent once I get instructions from someone wiser than me

It's a Tyco/Crompton 240V and the pic shows exactly how it came to me, apparently unused. Cap isn't attached currently but I know the Red/Green wires are for that and top post is Z2.

Thanks in advance

Live steam models in Little Eaton do 2.25” at £6.36 per inch.