Member postings for Adrian R2

These are full size, but perhaps someone recognises them from a model?

They are cast iron with solid rubber tyres and attached to the remains of an axle and differential casing so perhaps from a steam lorry, but not one that I can match to a picture.

Thanks for any suggestions, Adrian

Thanks Fred, that makes my uncle's Field Marshall look positively modern. I guess there can't be any hills on the farm where it lives then? We have pretty flat land as well so brakes don't get used a lot but they are still nice to have when manouvering or hitching up.

I'm intrigued by the operator controls (model and fullsize) - are there any pedals or is it all done by hand while standing on the platform like a traction engine? I can see gear level and another lever so is that brake or clutch and how did one start and stop it?

Edited By Adrian R2 on 18/05/2021 10:24:23

Thinking about function and fit: Rust or loose material needs to be gently removed without changing the shape of the taper, light pitting isn't going to make any practical difference but if there are any dings or bumps then ensure that the edges of these are not proud of the surface otherwise they will prevent a good grip and might score the inside of the female part if it spins in use.

Fascinating watching this come together and the thought that is going into each piece. A question on the front axle - why did you decide to make it from plate sections? Presumably you thought cast aluminium would not be strong enough around the pivot, but why not machine from solid steel?

Edited By Adrian R2 on 05/05/2021 10:46:21

The "Petrolea" mentioned earlier in this thread is back at SRS and on sale for £2650:

https://www.stationroadsteam.com/3-12-inch-gauge-ger-t19-4-4-0-stock-code-7987/

For the doubters, it works, and there is even a linked video of it in steam.

"Passivated zinc" is a common finish for car bits, it keeps them looking nice and presentable in storage so they can be sold, but doesn't last very long once fitted to the vehicle and exposed to the elements. Of course this is probably done to carefully specified minimum standards and "fit for purpose".

I'd go for "price" - only one letter wrong and adjacent on the keyboard.

Less convinced about my freezer idea now. The shaft will need to move on at least one and maybe both the bearing inner races, cooling the whole lot won't do much there. Perhaps put it the freezer and then allow to warm up in the sun or on top of a radiator, some differential effect might occur to loosen it.

If no joy by bedtime, put it in the freezer overnight then get out in the morning and give it another thwack, less destructive than heating and you may get lucky. When it comes to freeing things off one good hit is better than a lot of little taps so plan ahead and have a way to support it so you can thump confidently. I'm **guessing** that it will either be a plain shaft with a tubular spacer between bearings, or have a larger diameter internal section with shoulders and maybe some shims, and will come apart from either end.

That said, how much do you intend to use this saw once rebuilt? You now have good access to the bearings so could flush them out, relubricate and see how they run. May be good enough.

I'd love to know what the legal defintion of "silent" is....guessing it has as much meaning as "quality" or "high performance".

Some traction engine type strakes wouldn't look out of place, or there is one here that has been fitted with solid tyres.

https://cobahcastiron.weebly.com/mcdonald-tractor-twb542.html

Looking forward to seeing this on its wheels.

I remembered where I'd come across a vertical split gearbox before. My grandfather owned a Turner Yeoman of England with a similar arrangement. It was a v4 diesel if you fancy building another oddball.

Edited By Adrian R2 on 02/03/2021 11:12:05

Also interested in recommendations - I bought a no-brand flexible LED reading light to use on my lathe a couple of years back and it generated more radio hiss than my VFD and had to be sent back.

As an abstract exercise, comparing the two designs indicates where the makers think the weak points are:
- Top jib reinforced by triangulation around the upper ram pivot
- Two tension stays at rear to reduce risk of vertical post tilting sideways

The problem with using the hydraulics as a load limiter is the extendable jib surely? If the ram is sized for max load with short jib, then it can potentially overstress when extended.

(No qualifications to back this up apart from decades old physics A level and youthful misadventures with farm machinery, you have been warned)

I dug out my plans for Petrolea last night. They say they originate from Donaldson & Piper, Kent, with the "Copyright" to LBSC crossed out! I bought them s/hand so don't know if they are the same as the Kennions ones.

SRS number 7987 appears to have worked (edit: perhaps not strictly a Petrolea?)

https://www.stationroadsteam.com/3-12-inch-gauge-ger-t19-4-4-0-stock-code-7987/

Edited By Adrian R2 on 08/02/2021 10:45:53

I have a part completed one, inherited from my grandfather. I think he would have started it "in period" and got as far as completing the chassis, motionwork and boiler before leaving it on a shelf for 50 years+. I have run it on air which seems OK, so if you want anything measured from an as-built version then shout.

I have most of the original ME issues and a set of plans purchased later, and I recall I found some pictures in the Station Road Steam archive if you haven't discovered those already.

Good stuff. I don't think I'd fancy furnace work in 30C, well, not unless you have one of those closed and insulated electric ones. On the plus side less chilling from the moulds I guess.

Thanks Fred, looking forward to seeing some more pictures in due course.