A fish in the internet suggests the tank is made of polycarbonate. The dispenser shown on the web is is for a two component syringe with a static mixer nozzle attached.

Epoxy might do the job but you might never get it apart again.

I would have guessed it was a clear two component addition (platinum) curing RTV silicone. Shouldn´t attack the polycarbonate. Anything with a solvent in, is a no go. A clear sanitary silicone would probably do the job. Put a blob somewhere out of sight and see if you can get if off again.

However I had a look at this German site (https://www.poolpowershop.de/waterrower/glue-kit) and it helpfully has the supplier details of what they are selling for the job. It turns out to be an electronics grade; unfilled, room temperature fast curing; two-component polyurethane adhesive is designed for the adhesion and potting electronics.

Dick.

Try "perforiertes Blech" or Lochblech. (perforated sheet).

There are things (tower shapes with bridges) for this in Thingiverse, search calibration and pla. The problem is to get the printer to print different parts at different temperatures, so as far as I can see you have to import their g-code and run it, i.e. no stl and slicing. I run at 210°C and 65 °C bed.

MichaelG.

Try pr = gb19690030371.

pr is priority.

Searching patents is a bit of an art. Transposing application no.s, i.e. getting the application no. into the right format for Espacenet is tricky, older Japanese documents with emperor years as dates, US serial codes that cover several years. Espacenet will accept wildcards but you have to specify the field. Often it is a problem to pad out the number with the correct no of leading zeroes. You also have to know whether it is a priority or a straight application no. A good start point is to have a look at the publication data on the front page of a published application or patent and try and make sense of the various numbers and then try and find the document again using other tags (priority instead of application or publication no.)

Patents were my old playground. US application no.s are trickier.

From Espacenet

Bibliographic data: GB1335367 (A) ― 1973-10-24

CHUCKS

1335367 Chucks CLARKSON INTERNATIONAL TOOLS Ltd 14 Sept 1970 [16 June 1969] 30371/69 Heading B3B A tool-holding chuck includes a tool-locating part 26 slidably mounted in the chuck body to control the axial position of the tool, a rotatable adjusting ring 34 in screw-threaded engagement with the tool-locating part, and means, such as apertures for reception of a suitable tool, on the adjusting ring accessible through an opening 18 in the body for rotating the ring to control the axial position of the tool-locating part. The adjusting ring carries suitable graduations visible through the opening 18. A rear surface of ring 34 abuts a shoulder 17 in the body. A head portion 25 of tool-locating part 26 is held against rotation by engagement of a slot therein about a screw 19. The head has a conical stop 27 which engages a depression in the tool shank 23. The latter is gripped by a split collet 22 which is tightened by axial movement of a sleeve 21 due to rotation of a nut 11. Alternatively, a nut (38) (Fig. 4, not shown) with a bevelled portion, engages the collet (40) directly. The chuck is self-tightening.

Gruetzi aus Bayern.

Mains gas /air I would think. The valves are nice and fall naturally under your index finger and thumb to switch between melting/burning off, keeping warm to blow and annealing the finished piece. Maybe it predates natural gas. The other usual one was a bunsen type with a heavy stand and the burner angled up at about 45 deg. The one you have was more for working on (glass) vac lines in situ or burning off and sealing a vial of something from a vacuum line.

Laboratory glass blower´s torch?

Would painting with a solution of water glass (sodium silicate) solve the problem?

Hello Martin,

Greetings from somewhere between the Lech and the Ammersee.

Sorry I didn´t see your original post.

Dick.

Neil, out of curiosity, what were the long names in the "mix of several chemicals with very long names is a clear gel"? As a polymer chemist I´d be intrigued to known.

Last year I landed up repairing a mobile which consisted of an acrylic plate (ca. 15 x 70 cm, 6mm thick) with a fantasy mechanism Meccano of wheels and propellers driven by a synchronous motor in the base. The mobile fell victim to some children visiting. The plate was attached/ butt jointed at the sides to two perspex columns 20mm dia and the whole lot was in a large perspex tube with a lid about 80 cm. tall in all. After the impact the columns were broken, the plate broke off the column on one side and the brass bushings glued into the plate were loose.

I used this stuff Acrifix 1r 0192 to repair it. ( https://www.acrifix.com/product/acrifix/downloads/391-20-acrifix-1r-0192-en.pdf). I used blue masking tape to protect the area around the joint and to remove excess glue after curing (there is a YouTube video on how to do this). A light source I used bright sunlight. I think a 100g tube of the stuff cost me about 10 Euro. The product description says it could also be used for polystyrene (PS) and polycarbonate (PC).

A picture might be helpful. I´m not sure what you mean by a "hot tub". I know certain large bits of plastic sanitary ware used to be made of highly filled thermosetting polyurethane moulding compositions.

Around the 12-15 Euro mark. As to a "simple prescription" try Germany, (100 Euro +) for anything. I tend to use simple over-glasses and a variety of off the peg reading glasses in the workshop but the availabilty of safety glasses with bifocal sections caught my attention. I take the point with regard to those whose eyes differ markedly. sorry, just trying to be helpful.

Following on from the article on "Lathework for Beginners" and the safety aspects thereof, in the latest edition (Model Engineers' Workshop 284) I was recently pleased to note that you can now get bifocal safety glasses in the normal strengths for not too much money.

As I said, the article is scant on detail, I think you assemble it, get it chiming and set the hands accordingly! Perhaps there is someone out there with more experience? Sending a PM.

Which part of the instructions for the build are you interested in? The whole article spread over 6 editions, including the building of the case, only stretches to 21 pages and is a bit scant on detail sometimes.

Dick.

Take the point about the 5 bells but perhaps it has a different chime (Smoke on the water instead of a conventional Westminster chime)?