Member postings for Ian Usmar

Many thanks for all your responses. I have had a look and it fits nicely into the back of a 3/8 Socket so now all I need as bolt and a few nuts to fit the said socket then another socket etc. on the other end. Bobs your Uncle fanny's your aunt. Hopefully. I sprayed with release oils yesterday and it looked like it went into the thread?

I have a sump plug which has a square head which I am trying to remove. I have managed to snap a drop forged spanner already can anyone suggest what I could use. I cannot start the engine at present so have not tried a hot removal as yet. Its what type of spanner would be best ?

There is a foundry in Gillingham KENT

So anyone know what the issue number etc. is.

Dear All,

I seem to recollect a comment about a modification so that the hand wheel on my M Type moves the table in the same direction as the wheel ? Am I imagining it or is there such a thing ? Is it a difficult modification ?

Is there a market for Drummond M type lathe parts including a bed. I know there are some bits on a certain auction site but most seem to be round bed ?

The good news about the taper is I have found an adaptor by Proops on a well known auction site so can leave as is .

Can anyone identify the attached piece of tooling I purchased it a while ago but cannot remember what for. Also it's a 2MT which does not fit the Drummonds 1MT how easy is to recut / grind a 1MT ? In fact most of my tooling cannot fir the Drummond, do I sell it on and get new stuff.

Things are moving on BUT yes always can someone confirm its a morsetaper in the tailstock as I have some adaptors for 1mt to 2mt but the drill chuck I took put the tailstock does not seem to fit properly! I dont have the tailstock at present so was just wondering ?

Bazyle, To be frank No. I understand the principle its how I set it up though? How will the motor assist with tension of the clutch is in between the motor and the lathe.

The lathe is coming on I will get the Tailstock drilled out but I now have the issue of how the motor, clutch and pulleys fit. Please see attached photos of what I have, any ideas? I think I am missing something from the rear but do not knw what its called I assume it has a couple of gears on it ??

So now that i have it apart I have to make a decision, I have been in touch with Tony at Lathes.co who informs me that the Drummond were solid as standard. Do I keep it as original or bore it out ? If I leave it I could easily have the same issue again.

Eureka1 tap with the ball joint splitter and it came apart BUT yes there always is the depth of the hole is only 2 1/2 inches deep so need to drill right through. Anyone near Chatham able to assist me ??

Andy,

The lathe does not work at present its part one of the restoration project.

Roger,

Yes that does seen to be deep I will have a thing on that one.

Having looked at the wedges idea I have a ball joint splitter that maybe will work just need to protect the tailstock.

Roger,

I did start the idea of drilling through but can you remember how deep it was before you broke through with your brothers machine ? I think I drilled about 1/4" but still solid ?

Ian

Roger, Thanks for this but I tried that in the very first instance and nothing it just locks up. I suppose I could put stilsons on the hand wheel but think that's a tad brutish for such an old lady.

So I have a Drummond and have stripped out the tailstock the downside is that it has a Drill chuck seized in it and alas does not have a facility to use a drawbar. I have tried heat, cold. penetrating oils all to no avail. Has anyone got any ideas?

My next will be soak in derv over the weekend.

So tailstock now removed but still have the issue the stuck drill chuck I have tried heat and cold and its not budged. Any suggestions was thinking soak in some derv!!

So measurement for my collet.

Overall length 2”

OD at the base 13/16”

Bore 1/2”

OD top of taper 1 1/8

So measurement for my collet.

Overall length 2”

OD at the base 13/16”

Bore 1/2”

OD top of taper 1 1/8