Member postings for Joseph Noci 1

I have a useful manual in PDF so would need to send it via email - However, take a look here - lots of shaper info.:

**LINK**

lathes-UK has the manual I have, as well as another, at rather silly prices, but the one I have is available via google..

Not sure what the problem is - the winder handle to adjust stroke fits over the square shaft, and there is a lock 'nut' a big round knurled nut that you must loosen to be able to turn the handle - the nut should only be hand tight.

The stroke position is done by moving the slide, but I'm sure that's not the issue...

This is mine, a 2S I believe - with NC'ed steppers added to X and Z - mid right side the square shaft is seen protruding, as is the round 'nut' to loosen.

Better view of it here, top-right.

Amazing how many an unsuspecting bloke asks a 'simple' question on this forum, and about his only option is to run away, terrified..

That's what happens when you believe in Fairies..

Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 04/11/2022 10:28:16

since it's windows, google Powertoys for Windows - a uSoft developed add on for windows- installs and if you right click in the folder you have the images you can select one, more, all images, set a size to resize to and it does them in a flash. Also gives a few other features that try to make windows better..

It works well, is hidden, no adds, no thinking, nothing to learn..

Robin,

Is your sketch representative of the inside of the device? - ie, is there only one LED fed from the 2.7ohm R? If so, 270mA is very high for basic single LEDs, even hi-bright types. Max is typically 80mA , and often down to 20mA.

As LEDs start conducting ( and glowing) , the actual knee voltage of the LED is well defined. A few 10's of mV above that knee and the current through the LED increases dramatically. That knee is typically 2V for red leds, and 3v for green and white leds. I suspects your leds are white? The 2.7ohm resistor may almost just as well not be there - @270mA it drops 0.1v, hardly limiting the led current, and that is why the current is so high. A small variation of the two cells voltage will cause big variations of LED current in this case.

The better options is as has been suggested, but if it is a single led after the 2.7 ohm resistor, then rather limit the current to maybe 20-30mA - so @ 12V supply, 3v across the led, needs a 270 to 330 ohm resistor.

If there are leds in parallel, then you need to work is so that there is say 30mA per led and use total current to get the resistor value.

Led's in parallel are not recommended, some will be brighter that others, but maybe the fairies won't care...

Dell,

Not familiar with your specific needs/setup - wick lubricators I am familiar with sit atop the bearing or slide, with a hole down to the lubricated surface. A wick sits in the oil bath in the lubricator, and in a U bend goes up then down into the bearing/slide lube hole. The wick does not touch the moving surface -

What Pultra do you have?

A typical Wick Lubricator for lathe bearings

Joe

I used pipe cleaners in the oil-cups on all the lube points on my Alba shaper - works very well. The wire in the cleaner permits easy shaping of the wick, if needed.

Joe

partly...

If you had a 3 phase variable frequency source and connected it to a 'brushless dc motor' - such as in a 'lectric bike or scooter, or an RC model, the motor would happily turn at a speed related to the supply frequency - in exactly the same way a generally understood 3 phase motor would. There is NO difference between these types of motors in function - Brushless DC motors tend to have one of it parts ( rotor or stator) as permanent magnets, while generally understood 3 phase motors use induction to excite the other half, is all. The phases are not switched in sequence ( like a stepper motor might be), but are supplied true 3 phase. That the 3 phase is generated by a PWM signal from a DC source is the only reason for the term 'Brushless DC motor', but is irrelevant from the motor's point of view - the current in the windings is a decent 3 phase sinus..

And Dave (SOD) - they are not DC motors by any stretch...the 'DC pulses they are fed' is misleading. Only the controller's source for the PWM generation is DC. The magnetic field within the motor is a 3 phase sinusoid, or close to , thanks to Di/Dt assimilating those PWM DC pulses into a current in the motor windings, the value of which varies as it would in an 'ordinary' 3 phase motor connected to 3 phase mains supply.

The controller can be regarded an electronic commutator because it's action in switching DC to the windings is similar to the way a mechanical commutator works. Like brushed DC motors, brushless motors contain permanent magnets.

Not sure how to interpret this at all...Many brushed DC motors do NOT contain permanent magnets - series type DC motors have none..There is no similarity between commutator action in a brushed motor and and induced motion from a rotating 3phase generated magnetic field -

Electronic commutation is more reliable and efficient because there are no brushes. There are other advantages too, making brushless motors best choice for many applications : I think it's true to say modern electric cars are all brushless, and no-one uses 3-phase motors.

It is true that modern electric cars use brushless motors, BUT THEY ARE ALL 3 phase and EVERYONE uses them...

Drifting badly from the OP's questions , but misinfo does not help other readers of the topic....

If the supply frequency varies, the speed selected on the VFD is likely to vary as well

As I see it, it is all about a good consistent frequency sine wave input to the VFD

VFD's don't care much wrt the input frequency - the same VFD works in the UK and the USA ( 50Hz - 60Hz) and most will work from 400Hz input as well - and down to 40 Hz. All VFD's rectify the input AC to a DC high voltage bus from which the variable AC output is generated. If you go too low in input AC frequency, the internal Electrolytics are to low in value to keep the DC bus ripple low enough for the VFD to deliver rated output. If the other way, to high in frequency, the electrolytics tend to heat up due to the internal resistance.

Anywhere from 40Hz to 100Hz is quite safe for the average low power (say 1.5KW or so) VFD. A bigger deal is input voltage - a 220V Rated input VFD should not be fed with less than 200VAC , and then typically only at 60-70% of rated load...Likewise feeding the VFD with 250VAC would be possible, but brave, and heavily dependant on the voltage rating of those electrolytics - generally they are 400VDC, and @ 220VAC input they will see near 320VDC or so. 250VAC in will place near 350VDC on the caps.

You would be in possession of a really bad genset if it exceeded those limits for typical homeshop lathe loads...

By the way, an AVR on a genset does not guarantee clean output power. The rotor inductance is huge, and large sudden changes in load - turning on the compressor for example - take many 10's, even 100's ,of AC cycles to stabilise - Di/Dt will never allow the current in the rotor to change fast enough to control at that level. Even slower to react is the engine driving the genny - most cheapies engine speed are governed by air pressure against a paddle in the engines cooling fan airstream.

A VFD set for slow start will keep the genny happy too...

Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 22/10/2022 13:47:16

Bob, I made such a device for my Emco V10P lathe - I did a posting on this forum, not in great detail, but the concept is clear. I have seen other strap-on implementations - a underhang mount of the encoder with a toothed belt drive, etc - all iffy WRT swarf and such. I made mine inline with the leadscrew and the result is compact and well protected.

Backlash needs to be accounted for in the conventional way of course, but once used to using lathe dials, it comes naturally.

I interfaced the pulse output to an existing FAGOR readout system, with a bit of software translation in the way by means of an Arduino type do-alike.

It's not easy to find specific posts on the forum software, but I think this may work -

X Axis encoder post

I may have more detailed photos somewhere , but it was in 2017...

Joe

Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 17/10/2022 07:07:29

Outstanding! Cross view only...I cannot get parallel view to work at all. Nothing to do with your photo's though - have never been able to! I 'almost' get there using a cardboard sheet with two eye-spaced holes, start close up to the image and slowly pull away - often there is a 'moment' where the view almost pops out, and then its gone!

The cross views work in an instant, everytime, and those are superb.

Something I have not realized in previous views, the resulting image seems to increase in sharpness? In the background of Engine-2 on the left is a small horizontal cylinder engine - the fins of which seems much sharper and hard edge defined than in the photo itself. Likewise the anti-theft cable/wire strung through the models seems to loose the image pixelation. Is that possible?

Great photos!

Joe

Really? thats abt 50M plus devices....

Can't answer WRT a cad package that could do images for you, but the display electronics are interesting...

Not sure what basis you are using, and a lot depends of how fast you want to write ( eye persistance), how quickly you can turn the beam on and off and a number of other things...

I designed a display system for a Heads-up-Display - actually a helmet mounted display for a pilot - used the DDA algorithm - generated the graphics with a fast processor ( DSP back then..) which fed two very fast DAC's with some very, very fast drivers to prevent twirls and squiggles at line ends and starts...that was fun..We created our own PC based graphics (cad..) tool to create the graphics that would be displayed. Some graphics were static, eg, artificial horizon line, which only moved with A/C attitude, and others that moved all over this display , such as targets, etc.

A lifetime ago...

Understood - Thanks Nick

If you have a few years of Alibre under the belt, why did you move to Rhino, Nick? Alibre is kind off 3D at the core, Rhino is not, nor is it parametric ( although Grasshopper addon seems to try address that, in an iffy way..)

I am a Rhino user 10 years now, purchased Alibre Aug 2020, gave it back Jan 2021.

The Chassis pictured above is not for the faint hearted in Rhino...But I find Rhino far better for general workshop projects, 3D by more circuitous means, but most work I do is well catered for by Rhino.

Oddly, Google says...

No results containing all your search terms were found.

Your search - -DC 6-60V 12V 24V 36V 48V 30A PWM DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER (PWM) - did not match any documents.

Suggestions:

• Make sure that all words are spelled correctly.
• Try different keywords.
• Try more general keywords.
• Try fewer keywords.

Anyway, dug some more and as you say, lots of hits. That PWM module is just that - only chops the input DC into variable width pulse, so no closed loop control, so no 'real-time' update of the PWM pulse width to keep motor speed constant. This will be most noticeable at low motor speeds. It will probably not be noticed on that small lathe - torque requirements are low, so it should be just fine.

Nice little lathe...

I believe the proposed brush problems the most likely - If the brush was stuck or had some guff between it and commutator, then contact might be 'OK' for low current, ie, low torque, and fail with load. Repeated stalls dislodged the guff or stuck brush.

The odd sound from the PSU - this could easily be due to the contact tween brush and comm coming and going as the brush made good contact and broke that a few times during the stall - the PSU would then PWM itself from high current to low current mode and back, in sync with the brush contact rate, and that is reflected into a more and less intense magnetic field in the PSU switchmode transformer, the resulting magnetostriction resulting in audible clicking.

I presume the PSU and motor were in close proximity - are you sure the audible sounds were from the PSU and not from the motor as the brushes made/broke contact?

PWM can change in real time, but only if the control loop commands it - this is inherent in the PSU - the loop is a closed one with the pwm dependant on output voltage.

The speed controller is another issue though - Basic PWM speed controllers are not closed loop and do not control torque or speed - simply set speed with a specific PWM width, and then any load will cause speed to drop, etc.

Better PWM speed controllers use motor back-EMF to measure motor speed and close the loop, but most cheapies don't. Even better controller measure motor current and back EMF and control the speed/torque curve.

What is the speed controller part number?

"electronics' is far too broad to cover in any single book or shelf of books. It may help if you could categorise your interest somewhat - Radio/RF, Audio, Digital, analogue and analogue signal processing/conditioning, power electronics ( motor control) ,etc..

Any book trying addressing even some of those categories has to be rather general at best.

What are you main interests?

Have used them for degassing epoxies - works very well indeed - also used as a vacuum source for a small (300x300mm) vac table to hold down printed circuit board material on a cnc router/drill. To preserve the lube I have the outlet exit the compressor vertically into the bottom of a brass funnel filled with open neoprene sponge - the sponge traps all oil and the oil drains back into the compressor when it is not running - seems to work ok - this specific one has about 1500 hours on it as a vac pump, and have never needed to add oil.

We use a Kellie type kettle ( not kellie, but locally made so not a known name ) - I see there is a Ghillie kettle, made in the UK - it is really efficient! The UK one is Al, while the Kellie seems available in SS as well.

You have to make the fire, so carbon emissions, etc, but I use small twigs, leaves, etc, that are really dry, lying around on the ground in the bush etc.

3 large cups of water boils in 7 minutes from when the match is struck, with a large handful of twigs.. Smoke emits for the first minute or less, and if the fuel is really dry, smoke for 10-15sec only.

Not great in the clubhouse tea room...but it really works well!

Soylent Green????