Member postings for James Jenkins 1

Hi all,

I am looking for gears for one of our weaving looms, which control the number of threads per inch. There is a gap in what came with the loom, so I don't have the exact gears I want to replace, but I do have ones with more or less teeth. Using these gears I have calculated that the gears are 13DP.

For example I have:

38T at 3.175" (38+2/3.175 = 12.59)
36T at 3.02" (36+2/3.02 = 12.58)

The load on the gearing is light to medium light and it runs very slow, around 6rpm. The bore is 15/16" with a 5/32" keyway.

12DP & 14DP are obviously fairly standard items, but 13DP is pretty rare and so I am having to explore all the options, including getting an involute gear cutter and making our own. However, this is also a non-standard item, so would have to be a specially made cutter (I have been quoted £145 nett at the moment), but with the advantage that I can make a range of gears and using a No. 3 can actually fill in the gap I have.

Few questions really:

1) Anyone happen to know where I can get 13DP gears or involute gear cutter off the shelf?

2) Would Delrin be a suitable material for the job?

3) The keyway is the bit that concerns me the most, as I don't have a broach or press. How successfully can this be done on a lathe?

All thoughts and suggestions very welcome!

James

Hi all,

Thanks so much for your advise everyone, really welcome.

The twin heads are mounted onto the proper cast floor base with moveable table, so height itsn't a problem. However, I have heard that with keyless chucks they can over tighten when the drill bit catches and also that you cannot use reverse (just very occasionally useful with a left handed bit when removing stuck / broken bolts).

Any experience anyone?

James

Morning all,

I have restored an old Pollard Corona twin headed pillar drill and converted to run off our 36v solar system. However, when I first tried it out I was gutted to see the drill bit wobbling about. Luckily, when I put a dial gauge over it I realised it was the chuck (phew!) and actually visual inspection shows clearly that the jaws aren’t coming together properly.

So I am on the look out for a 2MT drill chuck and I generally prefer second hand kit, believing old stuff was better made and so better value. However, most of the ones I see on ebay, don’t look to be much better than the one I have. So maybe this is one instance where new is going to be best? That said, I have read reviews of the Chinese Jacobs’ chucks that suggest quality has really suffered. My ideal would be a NOS USA Jacobs, but cannot see anything.

Any suggestions?

James

Thanks for the feedback - really helpful.

Believe it or not, I actually use motors designed for scooters. They are 36v and so fit in the system without the need for a transformer and they are very economical (c£60). The down side is that (at the moment) the supply of them seems a bit hit and miss. I was looking for a 3/4hp motor for the drill press, but couldn't get hold of one. So I bought the 1 1/3hp one. Eventually, if I can get the 3/4hp, using this on the mill is a good idea Neil.

I've not looked into the spindle speed of the Deckel, but I assume that the motor will also need to be stepped down 2:1, maybe a bit more (usually the things were designed to run with 1425rpm motors and at 36-40v the scooter motors tend to be around 3000rpm). So presumably that will be enough ooph. Obviously I don't know the long term life of these motors, but their biggest nemesis tends to be over heating. This can be improved by taking it apart and drilling air vents, but given that I have the duel concern of using as little battery as possible I fit foot switches to all machine (also a safety feature) so that when not in actual use the machine is off and hence has a chance to cool and isn't using battery. I realise this is something I might want to give more thought to on the mill, where it is going to be on for longer periods.

Hi Clive and Chris,

Thanks so much for your advice - it's really appreciated. As I say I am restoring a Frederick Pollard twin headed drill press at the moment, which has feet of vertical space, so that's not so much of an issue. There are a few other factors with the Deckel, firstly I am running out of space in my studio! So it's quite a compact milling solution and at the moment I am only looking to mill small parts, replacement components on the looms etc Secondly just practical considerations, it's mine for around £750 and it's in a studio almost next to mine, so no big transportation issues or costs.

It doesn't come over run with parts, but it does have a dividing head, horizontal head and a few other pieces such as collets and mill ends - it was used in a local engineering workshop until it was exchanged for an elm staircase!

I appreciate what you say with regard to it not being an L plate model and I will give that some real thought - maybe see if I can find the manual for it online. Presumably though you can lock down things like the rotating head etc and use it just as a standard x, y, z mill (I appreciate that you would need to check they hadn't moved before use)?

I won't contemplate this or any other mill until the new year, it's not going anywhere. So plenty of time to think and consider.

James

That's really interesting, never thought of filling - I'll have to look into it. What brand do you use?

The Linseed paint is interesting. I have found it to be really tough, because it doesn't go rock hard it doesn't chip. Obviously I don't know how it will go long term. But it is the traditional finish for the underside of cars. Certainly in Scandinavia it's an external paint with 10-15 year lifespan. It will be interesting to see. The only downside so far is that brush stoke free finish is quite hard to achieve - I am currently painting the Pollard drill and trying thinning it down with neat linseed oil. It's improving it, but I have gone too far on some with too much neat oil.

james

Wow, amazing job! Did you have everything sandblasted and stove paint applied? That's a great finish.

James

Hi all,

I have the chance to buy a Deckel FP1 Mk2 and I'd be grateful of the forums view on these. The research I have done on the internet suggests it's a very capable piece of kit that will grow with me as my machining skills increase.

It's in fair condition, mainly covered in old grease. Some paint loss as you would expect, but the ways move smoothly and I cannot see that there is a lot wrong with it. The motor has a two two speed box, with the slow speed going slower than the brass plaque suggests (according to my handheld tachometer) and the upper one higher (two speed seems to be 2,500 rpm, when the plaque suggests it should be 1,900 rpm). Which leads me to wonder if the motor is not original. Now the motor is a beast of a thing, at least as deep at the mill itself. To replace this would be great, as it would make the footprint smaller. However, what size motor would I need for this? I am trying to replace the motors in my studio with 36v motors, so that things run off solar panels. So far I have done one of the winding machines with a 2800 rpm 1/4hp belted down 3.5:1 and I am about to try converting the Frederick Pollard & Co twin headed pedestal drill press with a 2800rpm 1 1/3hp motor belted down to 2:1 (the original was a 3/4hp).

So any thoughts on the above very welcome, either feedback on the mill itself or thoughts on the type of motor power required.

Kind regards,

James

MABEL & CO

Establishing an organic tweed weaving studio on the Suffolk Coast.

Follow our progress: Facebook and Instagram

Hi,

Does anyone have a spare treadle stand they would be willing to part with? Ideally I would be looking for the pan down (legs, fly wheel, treadle etc). I have used my short bed for wood for the first time today and it work really well, but of course got absolutely covered in wood dust etc. So I am thinking it might be good to keep the long bed for metal working (and the very, very occasional longer piece of wood turning) and then short bed just for wood turning. That way I won't have to fret at messing up the long bed.

Anyone got something tucked away? We are in Suffolk, so obviously distance is a bit of a consideration, albeit not an insurmountable one.

Kind regards,

James

MABEL & CO

Establishing an organic tweed weaving studio on the Suffolk Coast.

Follow our progress: Facebook and Instagram

Dear all,

Thank you so much for all your thoughtful responses - very helpful. I am sure, with the work arounds that have been suggested, this will prove to be a useful addition to the lathe. I am a little concerned though at it's usefulness for a few milling jobs I need to do, but we'll see. The larger vice that Myford produce won't fit on the plain vertical slide that I have just bought. So maybe at some point I will need to save the pennies and try and get the larger slide and vice.

Thanks again,

James

Hi Michael,

Thanks for your post. No, the only loose piece I have fits in against the moving jaw. This the vice I bought.

James

Does anyone have experience of the Myford 71 Vice? Mine has just come through, from Myford, secondhand. And I have at least two issues. The first is that the corner where the fixed jaw meets the back of the vice is curved, meaning that square material held in it cannot sit on both the jaw and the back. The second is that the supplied T bolts are higher than the back, so that material wider than the narrow jaw sits on the top of the bolts.

I am not 100% that the back is flat either. I am rather disappointed, anyone any thoughts or experience?

James

I managed to find a plain Myford vertical slide, but it's not coming with a vice. I missed two on ebay over the last couple of days, but I could really do with one asap. I was looking at Myford new vices and frankly there isn't a whole lot of price difference between an old and new one. I have been assured by Myford that they are British made from the original patterns, but is the quality really as good?

James

Oh... that's a shame. I see the RDG one is 4" x 5", the Myford - although I cannot see a size - seem smaller. Maybe 3" x 4" is that correct?

I guess I will have to keep looking. Does anyone know a website that sells good quality second hand Myford bits?

James

Has anyone got any experience with this vertical slide from RDG?

I have a few jobs which need doing asap and there is a big price difference between this and a Myford one. Was hoping a second hand large Myford might come on ebay, but it hasn't and I really need to get one or two jobs done next week.

Someone suggested a Wacco one, but they can only supply them in Metric.

As I say any feedback on the RDG very welcome.

The serial number is 3205A and actually it's a 1932, not a 1938. I got my dates mixed up when I was writing the above. I just used lathe.co.uk and judged it was likely to be '32 as the number was in the middle of the three years. Apologies.

We have installed a small low voltage system into the studio (picture here), so if it was to go electric I would install a 36v motor. We have already converted one of our yarn winders using a 1/4hp one (short video here) and it works really well. I use a Pulse Wave Modulator (no I'd not heard of them either!) to vary the speed, as it allow the full power of the motor to be maintained irrespective of speed. I am just restoring a warping mill (pre-restoration pic here) and that will have the same, only 1/2hp (for restoration pics look at anything in dark grey at the top of this page). They produce them to just over 1hp at very reasonable cost - above that you can look to electric boat/scooter motors.

I might have to rig up some pulleys and shafts as there is a nice tool post mounted drill with the lathe, it would be great to be able to flick the belt over, connect this and treadle power it. One day...

James

Thanks everyone. Really chuffed with it and looking forward to getting it set up on the treadle base. Will certainly give me some more elbow room. I am planning on doing a bit of wood turning on her too - thinking of making a smock that fits over and velcros around chuck, tail stock and tool rest giving protection to the mechanics and the rest from wood dust.

My standard bed has been a God send with setting up the studio, I can only image this one will be even more useful.

James

Hi all,

Well this wasn't in the plan, but having been kicking myself for a week for missing this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Myford-Drummond-M-type-long-bed-lathe-with-lots-of-accessories-/152247876415?hash=item2372ae3b3f%3Ag%3AlJQAAOSwCGVX4Bub&nma=true&si=Z%252BZRIaMoK%252FHq2huy%252B8vuUThJE3U%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557) long-bed Drummond M with lots of accessories near us on on ebay I was rather delighted to see it relisted last night. A quick phone call and a deal was struck and I went this morning to pay and collect before there was any changing of minds!

I intend to mount it on my treadle stand, so I can puff and pant my way 28/29" up the bed now, rather than 16". I will have my original 1938 Drummond M for sale at some point, which when I bought it earlier in the year I completely stripped it down to component parts (apart from the main bearing), cleaned and rebuilt it. It's very smooth (actually smoother than the longbed I have just bought). If you are interested let me know.

I'm as excited by all the accessories that the long-bed comes with, including several angle plates. So whilst thoughts of a vertical slide have had to go out the window, I now have a way of doing most things with the angle plates.

All very exciting, just need to take out the V-Pulley to install a flat belt one for the treadle.

Kind regards,

James

MABEL & CO

Establishing an organic tweed weaving studio on the Suffolk Coast.

Follow our progress: Facebook and Instagram

I was looking at this one: **LINK**

But to be honest they seem to go for about half that when they are auction, rather than Buy-It-Now so I might bide my time (or send the seller a message after the auction and see if they fancy a direct sale).

James

Hi both, thanks for your replies. Really helpful info on the swivelling type, as that would have been my natural inclination. To be honest the feedback from the Drummond Group was that an angle plate, if you can secure the work, is almost better. But the lathe is also going to be my pillar drill for a while and I guess it's much easier to move things into place accurately with the vertical movement.

I'll have to wait for an old Myford one to come up as auction on ebay - the nearly new buy it now ones are quite pricey.

James