Member postings for Richard S2

Good luck with your project.

I cheated and sliced up an early 60s Kitchen Unit Top Box which I saved . Good quality wood and machined Dovetails. Too nice to break up-

Glued-n-screwed Old Marine Ply for the bases. The 2 boxes will take 20kgs of Lathe accessories each with no issues-

Making the partitions out of mahogany at the moment.

Nickel Silver Sheet has good properties for the job. Depends what sheet size(s) you would need and what you consider a reasonable price for the job materials. Various thicknesses and hardness grades available.

An example after a quick search- NSS.

Regards

Garage/Workshop is ground floor of 3 story Town House. A comfortable ambient temp through Summer. Freezing in Winter.

Happy to endure these Temps and long days, as winter is cold and dark enough for far too long for me. Others maybe not so. Stay cool if you can.

Edited By Richard S2 on 30/06/2018 23:01:28

Hello Martin, Thanks, yes I would say they are harder than the usual iron clench rivets when closing with a small Ball Pein.

The head diameters are 0.1250" and 0.1358". I suspect they are Plate Rivets as you say. Must be a use for them, as there are 1940 of the larger ones and 213 of the smaller size.

Like the Minnie Anvils of Martin, Ian and Vic. I think mine is same as Vic's and I'm nearly ready to nail it to a lump of seasoned Laburnum -

Have a box of old round head steel rivets which to me do not appear to be the usual parallel, square ended shank type. I suspect they may be for countersunk setting or for use on fixing reference or makers plates to machines etc.

These have a slight taper and seem to comply with Wire/Numbered drill sizes of 49 and 43.-

Would they have had a specific purpose?.

Surprised to be given a box of tooling and bits. Long stored and in need of sorting and cleaning. Result was many usable pieces-

4" dia box of 2000+ Steel Rivets, S/steel ground Reference Angle Plate?. Bronze/copper gauze. Indexable Chuck (jacobs 0-3/8", detent wheel has 12 pos'ns ?. presume for milling/drilling flats or holes in small round stock.

PS Stubs assorted files (mostly unused). H6/7 assorted Reamers. Slocomb bits. Meggazones box was full of finely ground and blank HSS/C Lathe tools. Box of single/double coil spring and shakeproof washers., Honing stone in leather pouch. Dial Indicator had a hard life and a totally scratched/opaque lense. Stripped, cleaned and re assembled with the polished lense, it's now working fine, albeit the secondary dial needle is 90 degs out, but no issue. Glad to have a Plunger type-

Glad to give these a home.

A suitable sealer and filler I found some years ago here in UK is 'Leak Fix' by Plastic Padding. Usual disclaimer, but I found it bonds really well to prepared brass. It is still well bonded after 30 years. A bit fast on setting time, but will flat easily with various grades of abrasive paper and primes well. Old tube of it is still usable.

On the Plumber's Solder subject, I have a few Old bars of Frys Belfry grade which (was) had general purpose use originally. It is the same grade as Body Lead Solder with up to 34% Tin. Melts at around 252c and solid at 185c. Has the benefit of the longer plastic state for 'wiping' like in the old jointing method using a Moleskin wipe.

Tinman's Solder grades would not be suitable if required to remain plastic,as it has a higher ratio of Tin + Antimony.and lower Melt and Solid temps.

Good luck with which ever method you use. I'll have some blending work to do, but I think I'll get away with shallow Etch/Primer build up prior to paint.

Rail track sections make good Anvils. I dug up a couple of old 13 inch lengths (36lbs ea) in my property a few years ago (near London - Brighton line). dims are nearest to 100lb ARA-A spec. cleaned up easy and shiny.

It's lubricated Many thousands of Mowers, Sturmey Archer 3 speed cycle hubs etc and kept them running smoothly for many decades. I still use it around the workshop, albeit the old original maker's (E.R Howard of Hull) Thick Grade of 3 in 1 .

Never had any issues with gumming. Spindle Oil was specified for use in Textile Mills. Pale version reduced risk of staining. Being light grade, it drains, so requires regular replenishment, especially where the textile fluff tended to 'Wick' the oil away from the important bits.

And an example of the TV commercial in the 70s- Silence is Golden

Edited By Richard S2 on 13/06/2018 13:47:58

Remember them well back in 1964-ish. Mine was the Cox Thimbledrome Baby Bee. Came fitted to a Plastic PT Trainer Control Line Model obtained by swapping something for it with a School mate. I fitted a genuine Cox wrap around Silencer which was quite effective. Most of my engines had a silencer of some kind.

I also had a (now rare) British made Clone known as the Keil Kraft Cobra 049 with cast in Bearer mounting lugs.and rear Carb for a remote fuel tank. Serial number was 1231 i think. Good little engine and used many of the Cox parts.

I sold all my I/C Aero engines a few years ago.

I dare say they could be modded to run full and idle with some work, but for me, they were Control Line or Free Flight run dry scenarios. Good luck if you take on the challenge.

Hydrochloric (Muriatic) Acid has been used for many years to remove Galled Aluminium deposits from Small engine Crank Journals, usually as a result of a seized engine. Plenty of demos on WWW.

Look's a good acquisition.

I preferred to make a thicker Tapered sliding Spacer on the Drawbar to fit into the back of the Spindle Bore so that the Drawbar was always centred with the Bore when the nut is 'Nipped up'

3rd Owner Lucky hopefully!, Only Killer I see is that Chuck Key stowed in the Chuck !. I'm sure it won't be left in there

I have an unused 6'.6" length of 1/4" (not 6mm) purchased new and long stored sealed. Still supple and as new.

I am prepared to part with it so you can sell your machine on. PM me if you're interested

I'll get my coat !.

Hello Malcolm, Your original post on this is here-

LINK

If you need any more info on a 'Between Centres' Boring Bar, I'll sort some dimensions of the one I made.

Regards

Finished the refurbishment of a free Vintage Manual Bench Drill. Heavy duty version. Only felt the need to replace the Drive shaft and the Chuck mounting -

Looking forward to using it (more pics in album).

Glad you've succeeded in it's removal. I have just this week removed a piece of broken 10ba Tap from a through hole in 1/8" of copper on my boiler. Took 4 days using sulphuric acid (ex car battery 30 years ago), probably quicker, but I could only use very little at a time in a small 'bunded' area. Very pleased also with the results of the process.

Assorted jobs done on the refurbishment of this Vintage English Manual Bench Drill-

fully stripped down to component parts.

Pressed out the worn/damaged Main Drive Shaft from the 'Pin Locked' Bevel Gear-

Prepping for making new shaft.

Pressed out Main Column from Base Plate and located some replacement 5/32" Ball Bearings from replaced 'End of Life' Civil Aircraft Bearing stock I have from back in the 70s-

Also replaced the 1/2" x 20 UNF Chuck mount on the end of the Main Spindle. Enjoying this little refurb.

Thanks for the corrective response. Sure I remember correctly that he used it for Bath Taps?.

I'll relegate/elevate it to my Tooling stock, although the shank is turned down for a hand drill. Fortunately my 58 year old Bath Taps are still good. I'll get some of those Washers though