Member postings for not done it yet

In addition, someone has recently been awarded £7500 in damages for MS's unwanted 'upgrade' being loaded onto their machine. Apparently messed up their business activities. Seems like a precedent may have been set, so there may be a lot of claims following along... a bit like PPI, or volkswagen, or ...

http://www.gamenguide.com/articles/30651/20160629/microsoft-loses-to-lawsuit-for-unauthorized-windows-10-update-pays-10-000-in-damages.htm

OK, might be less now, with the current exchange rate .... but worth keeping an eye on proceedings.

The spindle is no great problem as long as any centre fitted has no run out. It will revolve with the part it is centred on or could/would have a drawbar to tighten the morse taper drive otherwise. Tha tailstock is a slightly different problem in that it needs to resist turning and be in line with the spindle centre.

Wet and dry have a thickness, so any morse taper will not clean out the full depth but must be good for most of the taper. Remember, too, that these tapers may or may not be hardened. The problems start when swarf has been trapped previously or the surface is badly galled.

So my advice would be to start with the least aggressive methods and progress from there. Testing for contact at each stage is important, to know where the high spots are. If resorting to a reamer, then removal of the absolute minimum of material should be aimed for, I would think.

West in Cambs could be Thrapston - or even Stamford (just about). How about a post code area? Peterborough has a thriving model eng soc. Stamford still has one, but needs new members.....

Using a spiral tap might make threading such a hole easier. That is the way I would go, if I had gotten that far with the project. I would avoid welding because of the distortion and redrilling problems. I might even clean it out as a slot or dovetail and simply replace the area with an insert (grub screws at the edges would hold the new piece in).

It will be as long as the sliding part? Longer would be pointless and likely to foul something; shorter would decrease its effectiveness - think here if it was so short that the adjusters did not act upon it!

Thickness should be the maximum that can be accommodated - no point in making it thin and flexible.

The angles and width will be that of the current dovetail with a little clearance. Just pay particlar attention to clearance in the topcorner to avoid pressure on anything but the flat surface. Depressions for the adjusters to positively locate and allow adjustment might need some consideration re size shape and depth.

I would be looking at the long travel gib to provide clues. There is a distinct likelihood that the two gibs are similar.

Re the roughing and finishing end mills - think here that you can get a good finish with a standard end mill but the cuts will be much less. So the cutter gets worn more quickly for a given volume of metal removed and it takes more passes, so longer time. So your choice, when it comes to it. Often the roughing and finishing route is more cost effective in terms of time and cutter replacement.

Ask yourself if you would use a felling axe to split kindling. Nope! Easier to have an axe for cutting the tree down and a small chopper for the final splitting for kindling.

I always think that flycutters and face mills are the cheap alternative to a horizontal mill. You will always finish with a dished surface unless they are trammed in absolutely perfectly. Your choice of more small ridges or fewer ridges and possibly more 'concavity'. They are an acceptable solution for those with only a vertical mill. The perfectionists who use a vertical mill will likely surface grind for a truly flat finish?!

Of course, the suppliers will encourage you to buy both - won't they!

These materials must comply with what it says on the tin/instructions/advertising.

But, of course, they choose the optimum conditions for their conformance tests. Large bulk at higher temp, not a thin film at reduced temp. They advertise the best result attainable.

Think here of concrete dam building. In these very large structures the cement will generate so much heat during curing that cooling pipes have to be inserted to prevent thermal cracking. One reason why lots of fly ash is included as a cementitious element of the mix. Think of fermentations - start too warm and the yeast produces so much thermal energy that the temperature rises more and the yeast works even faster, often to the detriment of the wine.

There are numerous other examples of 'thermal runaway'. Nuclear reactors, overloaded electrical cables, transistors or integrated circuits 'letting out the smoke', plastering walls cf plaster in a bucket, etc which are detrimental and lots of examples where extra heat is a good thing. You can be sure they test their JB weld in the best conditions!

The big joke is often that CE marks on chinese products simply stand for 'China Export' and nothing to do with european safety standards. Sure, there are good Chinese products, but there are also some really dodgy items which still need to be weeded out on arrival for sale.

The fact that the (genuine) EC marked products are up to, and often beyond, the old BSI kitemak system is to be lauded.

KISS principle. A reamer for the purpose. Bob D got it in one.

Presumably talking lathe here, not mill! I don't know about industry standard, but would a press-fitted nipple not suffice?

Is it getting hot due to too much grease? Add oil, then allow it to leak out?

Now we know the reason, there is a known fix. However, that thread is

not an important part of the chuck alignment with the spindle. It only serves as a means of pulling the chuck onto reference surfaces or for pulling it away from those locating surfaces.

That means the thread fit is not the location item and the slight difference of the thread angles may be made worse as the chuck seats on its location surfaces (especially if one of those locating surfaces has any very slight imperfection(roughness)), if that thread is already tight. Slacking off the thread fit, therefore, does not need to be as precise as one might initially think.

My lathe has a zero tolerance diametral fit at the back of the spindle nose, where the additional item is located onto a radial face. There is another close-fitting diameter at the spindle nose, but with a thou difference between spindle and fitting. Many consider that the front fitting provides nothing towards the chuck alignment whatsoever.

Edited to say sorry for the lack of paragraphs.  I put them in, but on posting they disappear.  Same as the incorrect forced line change, which was not in my draft and only appears when posting (so I cannot correct these shortcomings).

Edited By not done it yet on 21/06/2016 10:51:35

As above, I have a screw on chuck. Yes, I would prefer an alternative but it is what it is. I believe that most back gear breakages occur because the gear train is locked by engaging both back and forward gears together (yes, I am guilty of doing this to easily remove my chuck - but I don't over do the force!). My spindle centre is MT4 and I don't think I could damage the contact surfaces with any amount of reasonable force applied to the chuck. An MT3 should not suffer, either, if the drawbar is tightened sufficiently.

Another problem is fitting at different temperatures - cold and hot do not mix when making tight connections as they will either loosen or tighten. Many a morse taper has been made very difficult to remove, by expansion after fitting tight. Slightly wrong threads may make things even more troublesome.

I always use plenty of oil when putting on the chuck. I reckon that the excess, when squeezed out, is likely to carry with it any unwanted particles which may cause problems (just a precaution, not an excuse to spin onto dirty threads!).

This is what was done when fitting mill diaphragm plates in large grinding installations (3000HP?), where the bolts were tightened until the heads sheared off. Grease was used, in that scenario, to carry away any grit that may otherwise have been trapped between the bolt seating surfaces. No going back to tighten after installation!

And to add that braking a threaded chuck can cause the chuck to unwind. Also beware that you may be over-speeding parts of your equipment at 150%.and continuous working, at below about 50%, can cause overheating (the motor fan is running at half speed also).

I use all manner of methods to remove the chuck. But if it is truly stuck and you will break off bull gear teeth, or worse, here is the idiot proof method of preventing the spindle from turning while applying considerable shock-force to the chuck.

Not the cheap

est of cures and needs some work, plus some imagination, possibly.

Open chuck jaws wide. Insert a tapered threaded arbor (of whatever taper your spindle accepts as a centre), tighten it in position with a drawbar through the spindle, attach some form of lever, either at the drawbar end (if it does not unscrew while applying chuck removal force) or at the chuck end. Job done as best possible, I would suggest.

My lathe had been laying outside for several years, yet did not need that much force to remove the chuck. The ultimate method would be to remove the chuck from the back plate and carefully destroy the back plate by turning it, making sure you do not damage the threaded nose on the spindle.

Edited By not done it yet on 20/06/2016 09:54:41

There should be a number 1, 2 or 3 on each. That is the order in which they are installed in the chuck, due to the difference in screw thread of the chuck., so they all meet at the centre?

Ideally the same jaw should be intalled in the same position in the chuck each time, so the numbers should be stamped on the chuck as well. Clearly a 'matched set' with the same serial numbers should be kept as a set for each chuck.

All to do with consistency and maintaining known accuacy.

My view? Duncan is on my wavelength. 46k miles is nothing. Little more than 'run in'. All you are doing is lining the pockets of the car salesman. If that is your aim in life - to give away money, OK - but I dont ascribe to that. They are just grabbing yor hard-earned money for very little. My motor is now over 150k and my wife's Peugeot 607 is coming up towards190k. Yes, some repair costs to keep them completely roadworthy, but still not paying the income of some car salesman's earning of 50k per annum, or more!

The PPI scandal eventually caught up w

ith the companies selling a product which was not delivered as sold. No real difference here.

I've just had a minor hiccup with a distance (remote) seller on epay. Non- arrival of item. They immediately sent out a replacement by royal mail 48 at their cost.

Now, I don't know whether them telling me it was despatched was a porkie, or whether royal mail has lost another item, but they clearly would

have made less profit on a £6.62 transaction, compared to 2nd class postage.

There may be a few reading this thread who will seriously consider whether buying at a few quid less is worth the risk of a costly non-delivery saga. If you are prepared to take that risk, you don't complain. I can understand your sympathy towards the seller, as they are a prominent advertiser on the rhs of these forum pages (and elsewhere).

i had to take the day off for noting. But they promised ... So i have waited in all day ...

This sort of thing is not only inconvenient, but also costly. Two days, one with effectively a loss of pay (or a waste of holiday entitlement), means the real cost of the item may be far greater than buying from a more reliable supplier.

I would hope this considerable loss in income was taken into account when the transaction was finally completed.

Don't knock the method. Likely not work in ths instance if the cross section of the sleeve is minimal (suspect it may be).

The method was used just two weeks ago on the engine of my daughter-in-law's car. They needed to remove the bush in the flywheel/crankshaft as this exchange engine accepted a smaller spigot shaft, than the gearbox to which it was to be fitted, and it had stymied the mechanics. They actually used bread as the 'hydraulic jacking medium'. The bush was extracted successfully - and quite easily in the end.

Edited By not done it yet on 14/06/2016 14:04:43