Member postings for not done it yet

80 amps will not be much good for welding thicker materials but a minimum of 10 amps will be fine for tin plate rods.

Their comment about welding galvanised metal is a bit naughty, I think. It states that no-load voltage is 70, but I am wondering what the voltage is at 80A. Lightweight and good (maybe - they usually are) for thin sections. I wonder if there is a duty cycle rating that they are omitting from the details.

Photocopy the receipt and keep it with the manual (the lidl receipt will fade quite quickly in the light - becomes legible if heated, I believe, but easily lost).

Yet another couple of possible alternatives.

Use a smaller chuck or thread with a die.

I suspect that 1/3kW of this particular motor is actually producing something closer to 1/3 HP.

That depends on how the motod was rated. Historically the motor gave the output stated, so the input was slightly more, to take care of inefficiencies. Some specs now quote input power, which will obviously be higher than the power output.

Like compressors. Decent manufacturers quote free air produced while the cheaper, inefficient end of the market quote displacement, which is not the same by a considerable margin!

The catalytic converter was fitted to petrol engine cars to stop people killing them selves with tube from exhaust pipes which was carbon monoxide the same as faulty gas fires.

Nooo! The cat was fitted to convert the nasties ( CO and NOx) to CO2 and N2.

Unfortunately, it is likely that many cats are not working for many car journeys - the rat run to school, the short journey across town to work, or the initial part of a journey to get out of town. Why? Because the cat does not work from cold - it needs to be up to temperature before performing, so all these short trips with an engine from cold, are extremely polluting, compared with when the cat is up to temperature and working properly.

Oops! Late night guess was wrong. It will take about 6 years for payback, on sensible reflection. But still maintaining the usefulness of the kit in the winter months and good protection of machines and tooling will make it cost effective in very short order.

With Dave really. Perhaps not as exteme as Martin.

Iron requires air and water to rust. We cannot remove the air but can keep the surfaces free of moisture. Either oil/grease or warm enough to prevent condensation. Dew point depends on relative humidity reaching 100% and condensation can occur on any surface at zero Celsius.

I have partitioned off about 14m^3 for my machines at present. Well insulated and sealed - I mean very draught-proof - so air change with the door closed is vey minimal and only at low level.

Since January - to date - it has cost me about 5p per night to keep things warmed a little and quite dry. Initially it was costing about 10p per night to run a desiccant dehumidifier for three hours. Likely drawing moisture from the concrete floor until dried out. I am now running it just an hour each night, costing just over 3p I think.

The humidifier collects water and warm

s the area sufficiently to keep all metal surfaces dry. The machine working surfaces are lightly oiled, just as if in use. Later in the year a compressor type dehumidifier would be better (over 15 degrees and less heat produced) but I expect I will need ventilation while working in there, anyway!

I was contemplating fitting a fridge in the partition wall for summer cooling, controlled by an STC1000 at rather higher temperature than the normal fridge thermostat. That would act as both dehumidifier and heat pump. The running costs could be minimised by solar generation.

(LED) lighting is clearly required at all times of use but again solar generation can normally be used to keep grid power consumption down. I don't have a suitable wall for conversion to solar air heater, but the insulation is quite good for a sectional concrete garage.

I plan to increase the volume to about 18m^3 this summer if I can manage it. The only real expense being the reticel insulation for lining. The rest is chicken feed, cost wise - three or four scrap garage doors (easily found), a couple rolls of 150mm rock wool insulation and a length of angle iron (both items on site already).

I purchased two 'dead' dehumidifiers for less than a hundred quid; one works perfectly and the other only on one of the two 'speed' settings. I am using the less than perfect one. Reticel cost around £200. Payback time cf a 60W bulb running 6 months of the year? About a year, I would guess! Worth it, I think!

edit:the last 'paragraph should have been four or five.   This is the only forum where the post is compressed like this!

Edited By not done it yet on 09/05/2017 01:30:15

And I thought DW had made a typo and was asking why you wanted two suface plates!

Nowt to do with the number of conductors, but balance is important and is the reason why there is a limit to the size of any renewable energy generation feeding back into the grid from normal domestic properties - if all on one leg were generating into the network and all on another leg were consuming a lot of power, it could upset the system balance. An extreme example, but presumably with the limit of domestic generation the problem will not occur.

Here is post#100

Wait and see.

Only real answer to this silly thread

Sorry, Hopper, but neither hold water!

No point it being there if not for registration. No point if it ddoesn't actually touch anything in this respect.

Backplate could be left that little bit thicker if strength was required in that area. Chuck could be slightly thinner if the "'spigot space' was not put there in the first place.

A further point is that the bolt holes in the back plate are always left larger than the fixings - the whole reason why the spigot is the register for the chuck. They are not "fitted" bolts by any stroke of the imagination.

But then Makita for £100...

Makita ain't what it used to be.

Too true. I bought an expensive Makita screwdriver/drill and have regretted it. Turned out to be rubbish quality.

I expected it to last me out (my previous Bosch and Hitachi nicad batteries were no longer an economic proposition). I found its concentricity went awry after little use. Works well, but no accuracy. Clearly needs some decent bearings which will last a decent time. I only used it occasionally and it was rubbish by just over one year (yes - a one year manufacturer's warranty).

take the chuck off it's backplate and turn 1/32" off the register. Open out the holes in the backplate by a similar amount and put it all back again.

Please tell me the point of any spigot at all, if it is not actually doing aanything? If it is not touching anything (which is very likely) one might just as well cut a recess in the back plate - it would be just as useless as a spigot not touching anything!

Maybe the spigot is there to minimise the swarf which can collect in the otherwise gap? Again, the chuck manufacturers would not need to make their chucks with a gap behind that cover plate if that were the ca

se!

So, go on someone explain the above idiotic suggestion. Why 1/32nd? Pointless carp, if you were to ask me! Just a means of bodging a poor job (in the first place).

The only possible reason for a smaller, non-fitting, spigot is to prevent the chuck flying off instantaneously (or destroying the bed) if some or all the securing bolts were to come loose/break. If that is the case, clearly there must be the possibility of that happening -not what some are suggesting above.

That's right, Mike. Unless it is 'easy' don't use an easy out!

Too true, JR. Not mentioning possibly voiding the warranty.

Presumably one cannot over-discharge the battery? That would likely be the reason for it cutting out at stall - over-current dragged the battery voltage down to the max discharge level (and the protection circuit told it to shut down!).

tin sheds sweat a little.

The shed doesn't actually 'sweat'. It is the water vapour in the air condensing on cold surfaces. Install a dehumidifier, make the shed fairly airtight and condensation problems can be solved. But choose you humidifier carefully - compressor types don't work well below 15 degrees Celsius.

Remember to remove any jewellery, not wear anything with metal buckles or buttons, etc and turn off the pacemaker, if you have one!

As I watch Circular sock machines, there was less than half of one on epay last week which was a laugh. Rusty, dirty, incomplete and even without a cylinder or any needles even. Sold for £67.

The purchaser cleaned it up and it is now relisted on epay for £200 (a couple of parts have been removed, as well!).

The cylinder, which sold separately for over a£100, plus £50 for needles would still only amount to half a machine if it were all put together.

If there is some stud protruding, place a tight fitting nut over it and weld. The heat is likely sufficient to free it off. The left handed drill bits are apparently good (see abom79 vids). Drilling and retapping often as easy as any. Helicoil as the last resort.

Actual details - diameter, protrusion, materials, through or blind hole (yes, I know he said 'bolt' but likely means stud, capscrew etc) might help posters give the best advice. Even mole grips or small stillson might be an easy fix for this particular problem.

Maximus or Maximat?