Member postings for not done it yet

Hi and welcome. Im fairly sure you will find this forum far easier to navigate than the yahoo ones. I certainly do!

Likely much more traffic and other interesting topics on here, too.

you could use a hole saw in a drill to form the large diameter and then transfer to the lathe for completion.

Why not use the lathe as the drill? If I had several to do, that is what I would likely use. I've got several 2" discs to cut from aluminium offcuts, so I just bought the next size up hole cutter. Steel is that much harder, but you can go steadily and evenly with the cutter in the tail stock.

A cutter in the mill would do the same job.

Edited By not done it yet on 07/09/2017 22:15:24

Banggood stuff is cheap and cheerful - until you get something that is totally useless and then the trouble starts. They are a bloody minded lot re reimbursement for totally rubbish items. They just reply by robot and basically ignore the complaint.

Like do not buy anything expecting a true morse taper - you are likely to get a morse taper that only fits, metal to metal, contact at one end of the taper. Disposable/wearing items might be good enough, but not something that you might expect to last as a tool holder or similar.

How do I know? I have a morse taper that only touches at the small end. Wobbles at the working end when in work. Clear to see with marking fluid and also to feel when fitting by hand. Absolute carp.

Oops. 12.25 - 12.34mm, not 12.15 is the range for 12.3mm. If he wanted 12.30 the precision would have been 12.295 - 12.304. All measurements within that range would be a genuine 12.30mm.

Some people might expect 1 inch to mean 1.0000000", but it doesn't. And wouldn't in a court of law. Any measurement must have a tolerance to mean much at all. Whatever units the drill might be marked in is irrelevant, as I see it. Fit for pupose is the yard stick. I don't really care if I wanted a one inch drill and it read 25.4mm on the shank - it is still one inch (and to better tolerance than I specified).

That said, 31/64 could be 12.5mm at its maximum of 31.4/64", so that drill, unless it has a lesser specified tolerance, is not a proper and true equivalent.

Edited By not done it yet on 06/09/2017 23:15:30

So what is wrong with the current arbor support? Bore out the over arm innards and fit to a spigot on the new overarm. No real meaurement required. Sort the arbor lubrication with a suitable mod - like an oil hole? KISS Principle working again?

It is, in fact within the size range expected. 12.3mm would be between 12.15mm and 12.34mm.

Now, if you had ordered a 12.30mm item, it would be a different matter.... If there is no tolerance stated, you get what you actually ask for to the nearestrounding digit. That is why the average of 1 and 2 is 2, not 1.5!

Is this is for a bike with no battery?

my temperature guage stopped working they want €650 for a new instrument control module !!!

And the most likely cause of failure is the transducer! Has that been ruled out, or are they just trying to shaft you? It would not be the first time!

I have just taken a look at recommended cutting speeds with this combo, and I'm seeing 2800 fpm? So a modest 5000rpm at 2" on my S7?

Not sure where you got 2800 from - maybe an order out?

I very much doubt you have a chuck that would run safely at 5000rpm! Let alone a lathe that could achieve that speed.

must be metric

Sorry, but that assumption is flawed - if the previous reply is read correctly. There may be more than a single imperial thread used. Likely, but not certainly.

It's not by Gary , but ................

Oops, sorry - it's by some bloke by the name of Dave Halford! Any relation to you? My mistake, apols as most of the good stuff on that site is from Gary.

A good write up, all the same.

Of course, I don't need it as I am lucky enough to have a 2B. Apparently some on that site (well, one at least) think the 2 is not worth modifying... but I don't agree with that sort of piffle - they are a very good and solid design with plenty of extra opportunity, when fitted with a vertical head.

It's def worth blanking off part of any draw underneath, for the operational improvement gain, I am sure.

Sean,

Have you checked out the superb 'swap list' by Gary (binswood) on the yahoo forum? Your need is ease of operation and positional precision - as you are only in horizontal mode (with no easily adjusted quill in vertical mode).

I have no idea of the actual 'micro' adjustment on your machine but it is much harder to raise the table on my 2B compared to my Raglan.

There is always the possibility that this installation has a replacement single phase motor wired through one contactor of a three phase starter. That scenario may mean the thremal overload is trying to activate due to the incompatibility of the thermal overload and the increased current on the one phase...

I would suggest that we should refrain from offering potentially poor advice without knowing rather more detail of the problem item (and the ability of the fiddler).

I agree with David, apart from using the word 'should' instead of 'must'.

Our Ruston Hornsby 6 HR single cylinder horizontal oil engine (26hp) has a white metal big end bearing

While metal bearings can have very different analyses. Diesels generally get a much harder grade (more tin and less lead, along with other minor constituents). 200 tonnes running on only two white metal bearings is not uncommon.

I see it has a four way tool post - are you going to retain it or get a QCTP? If the latter, I would advise against an Arc Euro 'set'. Buying separately is the way to go and here are a few reasons:

Not really cheaper as you prolly won't want all the different tool holders in the set.

The knurling tool is an excessive pressure jobbie - not good for the lathe and the scissor types are far superior (even if a little/lot more expensive).

The parting tool holder is carp (well, mine is). The parting blade is fitted at an angle, so every time the blade is extended or retracted (for different diameter cuts) it must be reset at centre height!

More normal, simple tool holders are the real priority - the cheapest ones in the 'kit'.

Might be more, but will post now. IMO it would have been far better to offer a good price on the tool post and half a dozen, or so, normal tool holders (with maybe one of them with a V notch able to accommodate a round boring tool).

I might screw it down if I can figure out a way of doing so!

It does say it is designed to be bolted to the floor. Nothing about screws, mind

Tool steel or HSS? The two posts above are not necesarily the same material.

What would Neil do with two boxes of fork handles?

Fort Dunlop? Oh, maybe not!

Another 'factor' might be Cos θ. These electric motors have a lousy power factor, even at the best of times. I don't know how that might affect things at start up - certainly almost resistive before the motor turns. 3kW is 3.75kVA @ COS θ of 0.8 (probable normal running situation).

Anyone care to enlighten?