Member postings for not done it yet

Yep, brill idea, as long as everyone can accomodate their machine with sufficient space behind the spindle. I'm currently repositioning my lathe to leave space for longer bars of stock to protrude rearwards. There is always the exception that defeats the rule!

Edited to add that I like Joe Pie's wooden chuck support blocks (u-toob) where he just slides the chuck along on the appropriate block and it mates/aligns almost perfectly with the spindle.

Edited By not done it yet on 26/10/2017 21:33:20

Wait on a mo! Think about it just a tad!

These blades cannot all be the exact same length! Different tooth pitch will invariably mean a very slightly different length, unless the join has a fraction of a tooth!

When I read the title, trainspotting (one word or two?) immediately came to mind....

Not sure what the usefulness of that hobby might be, but it likely spawned the word anorak!

Please feel free to enlighten me on that hobby.

Tell us a bit more about the fault. Electrical, mechanical, motor, run out, bearings broken housing, etc? Just plain worn out?

I find it quicker to change chucks than to change from inside to outside jaws

Norman,

Are you still using the Loughborough? I little different than a chuck bolted on the spindle. So much quicker to change chucks with a theaded spindle, but the bolted on type can be used, under power, in both directions, unlike the threaded spindle lathes.

Mercedes owners have been charged up to $32 a gallon for adblue in the US:

They can afford it? Says $13 for 2 1/2 gallons is a better price , so a simple dealer rip off.

It may be of interest that farmers spread umpteen tonnes of urea on their fields as fertiliser.

On top of that the link tells of urea dissolved in mineralised water.  What poppycock!  Adding all sorts of solids to the exhaust gases!

Edited By not done it yet on 26/10/2017 17:09:32

The article was published in mid October?!

Did he mention which Christmas?

I would suggest that threaded holes in the mandrel would be the ideal means of jacking the chuck off. It should be a tight fit to maintain concentricity. The faceplate should be machined as a tight fit as well.

A better alternative is the bar in the chuck jaws and use it as a slide hammer, to pull the chuck off square (think here a suitable bolt, with nut, and a lump of suitable metal bored to slide on the bolt).

Also, best to refit your chuck(s) in the same position every time they are replaced, particularly for a self centering chuck, or a different concentrity error may be apparent on replacement.

When you buy your next new diesel car, ask the dealer where the 'diesel additive' tank is, how much it holds, how much per litre it costs to refill and how often will it need to be refilled.

I don't buy new cars (depreciation is far more than the running costs) but the additive tank is very much adjacent to the fuel tank, it holds only three litres (used to about 4.5l in older models) and needs refilling about every 80k miles. Not in the user manual as it requires resetting of the EMS, so a service item. And it won't last anywhere near as long if the fuel tank is continually topped up with small amounts.of fuel (not many know that, either!).

What annoyed me was the message of 'engine management fault' so take for diagnosis ASAP, without any specific warning. Another 400 miles would have affected nothing. That, and the smaller tank (refilled more often), smacks of dealership profits being raised by the car manufacturer. The previous model had a simple low level indication, so presumably no need for any computer intervention for resetting the EMS.

Oh, and the additive can be bought for about £16/litre.

When all the mods are carried out I would be testing it at up to something like 150% of the considered safe working load. Fitting a handle, which cannot overload the workings would be good, too.

One might add that these particular ones will soon be in short supply, or even at a premium, after the sad passing of JS - unless someone else takes up the manufacture. If I did not already have a pair, I would be ordering PDQ.

The original thread is linked by ASF above

Not the one I was thinking about,. Sorry!

Hope it might prove useful to someone else.

You selling it?

I think the post was likely about summat else but digressed to material scavenged from naval vessels. There again, that could have been on another forum....

If it only works for certain conditions, they should be able to select a constant speed, constant power situation as a generator for the batteries, so the hybrid vehicle could run on battery power at all times.

The position at which it fractured should give you some indication of the likely cause.

If not a straightness of holder problem, it could be caused by tightening down beyond any packing pieces.

While the tightening screws do not need to be extreeemly tight, over-tightening should more likely damage the screws/threads of the holder.

Are they not designed to have nuts fitted on the 'hidden' face, so drilled right through?

I've not yet used my set in the lathe, but they certainly get used in the milling vise. Saves using a rotary table for simple squaring and making hexagonals or machining them afterwards cross drlling, slotting etc

They can be used in the lathe, so plenty of uses. Now I have them, I would not get rid of them, for definite certain sure!

Edited By JasonB on 24/10/2017 13:23:49

You only mention time to stop the cut, as a big advantage - but you can also achieve a much superior finish turning at the higher rpm.

have the rest of the lathe bed to stop or disengage the half nuts

As long as the workpiece does not need support at the threaded end!