Member postings for not done it yet

Steady on! The Earth was still flat when that was made. We were also at the centre of the Universe. How things have changed...

Starting with a morse taper blank is one easy mod to the project, I suppose? The shank size, above, would nicely suit an ER32 collet chuck, but the diameter would not be critical unless using a Clarkson type holder or morse taper collets.

The key would mostly prevent the over-tightening problem experinced by the odd user.

My 22mm arbor for the horizontal mill is based on an MT 2 blank arbor. It is surprising how easy it is to get cheap chinese involute cutters working more evenly, so there must be a bit of run out over the length of the arbor, but it has not bothered me yet.

I would think none. A few minutes over a couple of months or so is just a nuisance for the clock watchers. I expect it is easy to work out the actual average frequency.... if one really wanted to....

Clearly a reply to the thread tittle?

In that case,+1.

I used to ride (perched!) at the side/back of a Standard Fordson while ploughing. My job was to trip the plough out of, and in to, work at the headlands each end of the field. I was about 7 and my brother was about 9. He steered the tractor and operated the clutch pedal. Dad, I think, kept the furrow reasonably staight with our other tractor - by adjusting the inside furrow width, as necessay, of his plough. This would have been after school and while the farm worker went off to milk the cows. .

My other duty, while plowing, was to replace the engine governor rod, when it fell off and the engine revved at full speed. The rod was very adjacent to the fan blades, but I knew I needed to keep my hands away from the spinning fan. Can’t remember actually being trained about the risks involved - only how to do it.

We knew to oil the mowing machine cutter bar while standing behind the oscillating knife; we knew to keep away from the (unguarded) flywheel of the hay baler; etc,etc. I was driving a large tractor, on my own, by the age of about 7 or 8. I dared not stall it as I could not restart it (engine started with a handle). If I needed to stop the engine, I parked it on a steep slope and did a rolling start, if necessary.

I was steering a D8 Caterpillar with Euclid scraper at the age of 12, and cutting at 13. My elder brother used to drive to the cut and back, unsupervised, while the regular driver had a rest/snack. The only bit he was not allowed to do unsupervised, was to empty the box at the tip - a steep down-hill run while operating the emptying cable mechanism.

Times have certainly changed!

Lasers were used more than forty years ago to plot the path of drains and tunnels. Used for tunnelling for the abstraction pipes for filling Rutland Water, from the Welland and Nene, and were pretty well on aim, as they tunnelled from both ends and met in the middle.

Doubtless used a decade later for the Chunnel. A bit further, but a lot bigger hole, that one!

I would think they are now far more precise than back forty or fifty years ago ... and they were good enough back then!.

But the old theodilite, etc was very accurate a century before. Some guy went c.1500 miles on a circuitous route and finished up about 50-300 yards (can’t remember precisely how far he was out on his calculations) error when he got back to his origin. Annoyed at such a large error he later found that it was a nearby mountain that mucked up his measurements, by altering his vertical alignment by a change in the direction of the gravitational field, on part of his route. Luckily, lasers are not so affected by gravity!

They simply an insert. Remove the old innards and replace with new into the tap. There might be different thread options and certainly longer or shorter stems for the operating knobs/handles. Right and left handed insers for taps with long levers, of course.

If you mean how do the inserts work, they are simply close tolerance ceramic discs which don’t wear out - it is the cages that eventually fail.

Regarding different materials for hot and cold water, I would expect that modern materials would cover the whole range of water temperatures.

Any problem, experienced with fitting new washers these days, is almost certainly related to not recutting the seal face when doing only half the job.

I would have thought that the lens was likely originally bedded onto a deformable and hardening ‘putty’, positioned in place by the screwed ferrule and then cleaned up.

That URL indicates most of the bearings are shielded. i don’t see any point if the box is oil lubed.

What is the casing material? I might suggest heat and cold be applied as a means of fitting the pocketed bearings, if appropriate.

If the bearings are a loose fit in the casing, clearly one would fit to shaft first. Bearing-fit loctite, or similar, would be my choice if the housings are that sloppy.

Not that far off on a tangent. Seats usually require recutting if allowed to leak, particularly at mains pressure. I still use mine (journeyman’s pic) occasionally.

Internal or external bevel? How far across? Eight degrees over 60mm is greater than the original thickness.

Take your length to someone who would machine it, is my advice, if you are not prepared to do it yourself.

Hydraulics are a far better solution. If the pipes are not round or there is foreign material at any would-be contact point, the design, above, fails to deliver.

“ Not many projects like this found in a home workshop.”

There might be if your workshop is a room for a 3-D printer!

With no idea of power requirements, can’t say.

Solutions using taper-lock systems will cover most sensible shaft sizes.

Almost certainly the engine will have some form of speed regulation.  More likely to need to pick an engine speed that matches the power of the pumping head.

Edited By not done it yet on 06/03/2018 16:49:50

1:4 ratio of effective diameter. Problem with fancy on-line calculators is that they use the particular effective pulley diameter - and that may be different for different belt cross sections.

Is your input speed actually 3000rpm under operating conditions? Do younneed exactly 750rpm output? Somehow I doubt one, or both are true.

Drive the pink wheel with a worm gear which will not drive backwards? Just like Fordson Standard tractors.

Or fit a brake unit on the drive shaft?  Like an overhead crane, for instance?

Edited By not done it yet on 06/03/2018 16:23:43

I am no expert with slitting saws but I am tending to agree with Zan - a slipping cutter is better than a shattered one, should the blade grab. There never was a keyway on the Centec 1” arbors, as far as I know. Most hobby mills don’t have to dissipate serial kilowatts before approaching a stalling situation!

Remember, here, the cross section of a 1 1/4” arbor is more than 50% greater than that of the 1”. The1 1/4” usually have a keyway.

Closest I worked, to Leamington, was Southam.

A question might be why have you have, apparently, not used it for the last few decades?

Ratio of effective diameters will provide the mechanical gain. It will not be more than that.

Yes, lots of manuals are ‘for sale’ on epay but are simply rip-offs as most are copies of what is already available from many yahoo fora and others.... for free.