Member postings for not done it yet

And the product description, lower down, say air supply of 95l/m. When I was at school there were about 28l to the cubic foot, so not even 3 1/2 cfm. Not the 4.77 cfm (135l/m) quoted. So not so useful if you need to most use air tools, continuously, for any length of time. Possibly a naughty bit of mixing specifications? The 1100W version might be 135l/m

Also not sure why they say “water filter is required to use with this air compressor” when a water trap is useful with any compressor (apart from the really low pressure ones). If it IS required, they should supply it with one, IMO!

The’professionals’ and ‘experienced’ amateurs comments are very welcome by me, for one.

OK, most of my work is not that intolerant of the odd couple of thous or 0.05mm on overall dimensions, but how to do it better, or by an alternative method, or not wear out my cutters prematurely, is all good advice for someone who is a jack of all trades.

For example, out-of-round facing cutters which cut mostly on one side (like the banggood one that doubleboost raved about, so he gets offered more freebees) do not impress me - I much prefer those cutters that actually sound ‘sweet’ when in work and will provide a better finish plus work efficiently for much longer.

I usually cut slots with a smaller sized cutter, but how much better if I had confidence that using the nominal sized cutter would not result in an oversized slot? Agreed, I have time to cut the slot and then finish it to size, but I still admire those that just do it with the one (finishing) cut.

Where were you born, Will? Lincolnshire is a large expanse. I live on the Rutland/Cambs/Northants border of the county.

Bob,

Joe has no profile in his settings, but did say ‘within an hour of Corby, Northants’ in his opening post.

Doesn’t that rather depend on the relative coefficients of linear expansion? ‘Usual’ is probably right because many don’t think of the expansion coefficients.

Tried checking out RS?

Is it like this?

**LINK**

There are best part of twenty threads for a forum search of “bench grinder”. Have you read those?

You won’t be guaranteed to get anything good at half of a decent price.

Location (profile)? Someone local may have a good grinder which is surplus.

‘Best you can afford’ would be my advice. Buying cheap often leads to buying twice.

Impeller pump or positive displacement? Important as an impellor pump will only pump that amount at zero head and likely nothing at a few metres head - think here of washing machine scavenge pumps. Easy to throttle downas long as flow is greater than the minimum to avoid overheating.

A positive displacement pump would likely scare the hell out of the newts unless you have a bypass line fitted.

You don’t really need to know the reactions at the atomic level. All you need to know is that if there is no possible gap for the solder to flow across the joint, there will only be a soldered line at the external or internal contact point. This is simply not good enough - the joint needs maximum surface area to be properly effective.

It would be like stick electric welding a butt joint without any weld depth - pretty useless under high load, and further, access to the other side of the joint may mean a single line of solder along one corner rather than both sides and the butt end being attached.

I think metal is generally rather stronger than plastic (epoxy resiins) and most certainly has a far higher temperature range of application!

Vic,

I used to use a machine like that - only it was a milling machine! There is a wide spectrum in capability. It did for me, for a few years, but I would not use one like that now.

The acro suggestion was just that - a quick suggestion - but many machines have been supplied with supports from table to the base, over the years. Particularly thinking big shapers here.

Acro prop, or two, under?

Yep, Mike is right. Power is basically torque multiplied by speed of rotation. Hence power at zero revs is zero as well.

Fan cooling volume is proportional to at least the square of the fan speed, so overheating may still be problematic at lower speeds, I would think?

Brian,

While a superb idea which could well, or should, be employed on other installations, it will, nevertheless, not be foolproof. There will always be the odd idiot who would bypass the safety with a bolt, or have two chuck keys!

The better inverters are always a plus.

10 to 15 years ago, most treadle machines, at auction, ended up in the skip. Only the cast iron stands were retained - for later sale as bbq supports.

I suppose that if enough were dumped, they will now be that much more rare and collectible. We still have my Mum’s treadle Singer.

A decent circular sock knitting machine cost about £16/10s. (I think) back in 1900 - I would need to look out the original receipt for the actual price as it may have been a few bob and a few pence more than that, but I daresay it included the train fare from London to Grimsby.

Do you want Argon or Carbon Dioxide. They are not the same.

Try a friendly pub landlord for CO2?

$20US for a fairly standard bolt (as a pack of 10), for a fixing that comes loose is, indeed, pricey. It means that the bit of kit has likely not been designed with sufficient care to prevent it falling to pieces!

Spigots, dowels, more fixings - and other safety clamping devices - should be incorporated to prevent fretting. A drop of loctite would be cheaper if it is simply the bolt falling out!

It is always better to avoid trouble, than continually fix it, IMO

Because they have not sold them?

ER25 will allow up to 16mm . ER32 will go to 20mm. OK, slightly more with reeeally expensive collets.

I would think ER25 will do for a while, until you buy larger cutters or wish to hold larger sizes of stock materials. The advantage of the larger set is that you would not need to change the holder for all the usual sizes. The advantage of the ER25 is that a smaller holder can come in useful at times (and they are cheaper).

I chose ER32, but it was a personal choice because I might wish to use it in my lathe.

Your eventual choice might be whether to buy a full set of ER32 collets or just the larger ones. Downside there is that of needing to change holders each time you don’t have a complete set....

So, stick with what you have or change your order before delivery is my advice. Probably be wrong, whichever way you go!

SB5,

Was it just before November 5? Could they have made a good price from weighing in the metal not needed!

Yeah, likely coveted and still helping people out, but just sayin’....

Posted by STK2008 on 05/04/2018 13:12:56:
Zzzzzz lol the days are dragging real slow.

Only been 2 days since I ordered and they said about 5 to 7 before I even get a phone call from the delivery people to arrange a time and date.

Gives me time to sort out the garage and find the best place to hire an engine crane I suppose .

That post, to me, means you could be waiting up to 11 days (including one weekend or, even 2 weekends) - 7 working days - before even getting a phone call which would then be arranging a date for delivery. Clearly you did not comprehend what they actually said?

After about two days you start fidgeting? Give them a chance to at least get things organised. Remember two weeks is only ten working days.