Member postings for not done it yet

I think you may be looking at it upside down. I don’t think it is a H. More like a combination of F, J and S.

The screw fitted accross the groove is certainly surprising - unless added by the eventual user.

Edited By not done it yet on 03/01/2023 09:25:36

‘Fraid you are out by an order of magnitude!

It seems to be accepted that these heaters lose about 600W through the exhaust. That, I think, is the reported recoverable heat which pertains to a “5kW” heater at full power (so would be somewhat less at reduced output).

Even the lesser amongst us should be able to work out the available energy in the fuel at 0.8Hz pump rate.

Crazy to weaken the combustion mixture by so much - thereby losing a greater amount of energy with the excess exhaust gases. 1.4Hz to 0.8Hz is in excess of a 40% reduction in fuel - with likely less than a 5% reduction in combustion air? Someone, I think, needs to realise these settings are not just arbitrary figures grabbed out of thin air.

These heaters (or many of them) are unlikely to be CE approved - or why would Trading Standards be confiscating (or whatever they do) so many units at the point of importation, recently?

Plot does not thicken, but the truth will come out as official (not hearsay or conspirational), now that the authorities have taken some long-awaited action.

stevie, if you want to keep on mentioning me in your posts, lets get things straight. You said :

NDIY asked me to

Not at all true - of course - as usual. Try reading (and actually understanding) my earlier post? I would certainly not be asking you to do anything. I am as careful as I can reasonably be when adding comments

Earlier on in the thread, you wrote:

It seems they are around 5kw flat out down to around 1kw on 1hz pump cycle.

A few rudimentary checks would have easily debunked both those claims. Is your example really ‘flat out”.at 2Hz? So obviously misleading, wrong and rubbish. You ‘seem’ to be far too trusting, of what you see and read on the internet.

The last paragraph of that post similarly relies on everyone guessing/assuming that you are actually talking about the cost of the heater, not the 12V DC source?🙂 A reasonable float battery charger is cheap enough, but a good one might be around seventy quid. The battery cost might depend on type, size and quality.

Have fun with your heater and please desist from mentioning me in your posts.

I think it’s just ‘luck of the draw’ where Vevor are concerned. Good, poor or rubbish is my experience. Reading reviews can be enlightening - but the next batch may not reflect the previous responses.

Being a bit of a cynic, I might guess that this machine (though small) was too good for Warco. In that I mean there were cheaper (inferior) machines coming in from china, with greater capacity - but most importantly a good mark-up. These would have been sold by their competitors (if they didn’t join the flock) and made these machines unsaleable.

That likely means this machine is likely a good quality version of the design (likely not the best, of course - those would be to ‘aircraft standards’🙂 ).

Edited By not done it yet on 01/01/2023 13:47:55

’63? Or later than that?

I have noticed the recent rash of trashy videos re installing/running these chinese diesel air heaters.  Many contain lies, myths and sometimes dangerous suggestions.  Beware of what you see on youtube!

Edited By not done it yet on 29/12/2022 14:27:49

Hi Gary,

I am not a user, but I would guess there is a ball bearing in front of each of those springs, one of which should slip into a slot for each position of the gear. I’m guessing that if the gear ‘locks’ in one position, but allows it to float in the other, one detent (ball?) is stuck or worn, or the spring is broken.
I suggest you fish out those springs and see if the ball, or whatever is behind them, is to specification. If not it looks like removal of that roll pin will be necessary to determine any damage to the casing.

Doesn’t seem complicated at all (per Andrew and Frank). Might need to ream the old pulley and alter the power-transfer arrangement (if keyed) if a 16mm motor shaft is involved?

Nowt unusual for this lot. They often have what they call ‘VAT free’ sales (which are simply 20% off, not VAT free).

Does this signify the end of them selling those lathe/mills, by any chance?

Howard, John,

Another case of an ancient thread re-ignited on a specific topic…. when a new thread would have been far more sensible. This possibly useful question will likely never be found by a simple search, in the future.

From the Warco link you supplied: Enough there to at least compare the post and holder dimensions.

C0mparison of the measurements might give some idea. They are on their websites.

I remember a panel heater from the 1950s that worked like that. As under ten year-olds we did stand in front of it but it was really too high for maximum benefit to shorter people. It was in the ‘dairy’ part of the cowshed, so never ever heated the breeze block walls! IR is reputedly good for heating personnel in direct line with it. That is its forte.

As far as heating a workshop, I can see little advantage except while you are in residence. 1200W is 1200W from whatever heat sorce. It is electric and will cost you about 40p every hour it is energised at 1200W unless you are on a E7 tariff or similar. A fan heater of similar wattage would likely warm the area more effectively, but it is your choice, your money and you will live with it. Please let us all know your findings, in due course.

I’m currently getting about 8kWh from each litre of oil burned (along with about 5 penny-worth of leccy to run the heater). Most definitely cheaper than heating with electricity, but the insulation is the real saver - my workshop has a minimum of 100mm all around and over.

They may not have had modern chucks like we do nowadays, but I expect they had face plates which could be ‘adjusted to grip/hold material for drilling the ends with their Slocombe centre drills.

Edited By not done it yet on 20/12/2022 21:37:02

Judicious use of a chinese diesel-fired air heater, and running my dehumidifier on low power for one hour each night, has kept my workshop above 5 degrees and below 60% humidity throughout the cold snap.

It has required about an hour run on a fairly low setting on the 4(?)kW heater once or twice a day. Far cheaper, for me, than running the dehumidifier(s) for longer, or on high power.

Sometimes warmed while I am in residence and sometimes just started and left to shut itself down after a one hour run.

Back to just the dehumidifier at present. So costing about 7p per day again - for a few days at least!

One of their recent failings has been a loss of lots of parcels - which were dumped at a local (popular) fly-tipping site fairly close to the depot.

Police have arrested someone. Could it possibly be a rogue driver? Other possible scenarios, but that must be one of the favourites.

Edited By not done it yet on 16/12/2022 12:33:20

Remember 'Friday Cars'? Vehicles bedevilled by small faults, and allegedly turned out by the last shift before the weekend.

Remember, too, that if it is a cheap chinese tap, it will likely be blunt by then. Even more galling, if it’s only the last of two!

Edited By not done it yet on 16/12/2022 12:26:18

What most do not appreciate is that there are always rejects, at some time/point in manufacturing industries.

If materials, like powders, foodstuff ingredients, even materials such as aggregates for concrete. They are simply blended with other streams in order to achieve a product within the specification. Not dumped, unless no other option is available.

Steels are adjusted atbthe melt stage, by analysis and addition of other matetials in order to adjust the analysis of each batch. Nothing is just dumped - if not good enough it would be adjusted for a lowerbquality product.

Take water in your tap. It is blended from different supplies if necessary. Supplies from reservoirs is taken from different outlets (at different depths) to be able to use as much of the contents as possible, without the quality deteriorating. Maximum usage from the supply available - but nothing unused, as far as possibly possible.

Plastic components, out of specification are not dumped - they are either used as lower specification products or recycled by shredding and re-use of thr materials. Experience, here, from injection moulding rejects. Food grade products must be from virgin materials, but things likebpaint pots can be made with previously rejected items. Nothing is dumped, if possible.

Now to model engineering supplies. A lot of industrial/commercial products are required to a high specification. Occasionally products will fall outside the acceptable strict specifications (batch starts and finishes, perhaps?). Where do they go - to the cheap end of the market, if possible, before the expensive alternative of remelting and going through the manufacturing process again. The chinese direct these to people who are satisfied with the lower quality or simply are gullible.

This not only applies to taps and dies. Sintered carbide cutter inserts do not all pass the strict industrial specifications, a lot are sold to unsuspecting buyers because they are cheap (no industrial user would accept them). It even applies to machines - buy cheap buy poor specced machines, where poor castings or machining mishaps on the production line are ‘bodged’ to build as cheap machines.

It’s not all gloom, however. Think, here, that worn machines, less than rigid machines and cheap, poorly specified machines would not get best use of highly specified cutters which would be used in highly specified machines - providing a much longer cutting life. So lower specced items can be used, as adequate quality of the product produced by the machinist can be attained with care. A completely different environment than the mass production market in industry! Where thousands of items may be expected before the product goes out of specification (and round we go, again, with sub-specification products🙂 ).

I note most of these things (apart from very heavy duty vehicle air bags) are termed as ‘emergency’.

Personally, I prefer hydraulic rather than pneumatic, particularly for larger lifts (as in ‘higher) as any split would result in a very rapid deflation. So that is my advice - go hydraulic, like most fluid lifting devices around.

If your mill has a quill, use it to ensure accurate positioning and tapping exactly perpendicular to the drilled hole.

Simple, and no better, way to avoid joining any list of people breaking chinese taps is to avoid cheap chinese taps!