Member postings for not done it yet

Forget that word ‘posh’. They are either cheaper ‘budget’ items or better in one (or likely several) way(s) or another. Machinists generally don’t buy just to be posh. For instance, my better dro on one of my mills reads millimetres to 3 decimal places, but my budget version on t’other mill reads to only two dps. I don’t actually use that third dp, but am confident that it is actually closer to the truth than the cheaper one, when needing that second dp to be trusted.

I doubt it, but depends on how it is mounted. Best if not out of balance, for a start?

I, personally, likely wouldn’t just fix it to a plastic disc, either. Of course it might depend on the plastic disc…

Yes, but even better - if we add in the adjective ‘expensive’ in that sentence.🙂

Modeller/hobbyists make parts to fit together. Whether absolutely on-size or not, it often does not matter one iota - as long as those parts fit properly.

It is times like press (or shrink) fits that need a better degree of accuracy. Precision is far more important than accuracy in most scenarios. Making quiet-running gears may be another need for better accuracy….

There is nothing wrong with using plain internal/external calipers while carrying out a lot of work.

Using any measuring instrument runs into trouble if the calibration is not checked/verified on a regular basis.

Ultra-accuracy is required for series manufacture of tight-tolerance spare parts, where there is no scope for size adjustment at the end-user. The out-of spec parts (and hobby machines, on occasion) is where the otherwise rejects finish up on certain internet sites.🙂

Edited By not done it yet on 26/04/2023 14:41:52

True. Series taps are also available, rather than a set of taper, second and plug. A unique model could have (and some likely have had) non-standard threads included.

Taps do not cut to the finished thread size as fast as the average die, which is only a few threads thick. Cutting small diameters is far easier than the ‘larger-than-most model-engineering’ range. Nigel perhaps needs to (try to) cut a coarse thread on a 25mm, or larger, bar.🙂

Drilling it out, if necessary is obviously a job while the spindle is separated (or at least the top bearing housing removed) from the headstock.

However, you have a lathe, so that part can easily be made, in the lathe, after the restoration is mostly complete, if necessary?

“Anti-vibration”? In my book that is just another marketing ploy to separate those, that don’t know, from their money.

They may, as mentioned above, help in certain situations but are mostly an excuse for proper shimming/levelling and securing as necessary.

My lathe (a predecessor to the 254, one might suggest, but not a myford) is on a stand with a base that would not be easily distorted by bolting down to most surfaces - the fixings would stretch or the substrate would likely fail or be distorted. Small hobby lathes are not supplied with stands like mine, these days.🙂

The base to the stand is more than 1/2” thick, with near full bottom, and approx 6” high, if you are wondering about its construction. The rest of the stand is 1/8” steel sheet steel, formed such that it is really rigid, and with 1/2” thick cross bars for where the lathe is bolted down to the generously sized drip tray.

A pic of a stand, such as mine, is at the top of THIS page as shown on the lathes dot co site.

Seven quid for a spanner that is not even the correct size?!? I would not use one of my favoured spanners, if too thick. I would get one of my old spanners (or one from a car boot sale, etc, at some point) and grind (or possibly machine) it to size. Simple, cost effective and sensible.

Those multiple properties will all be on the same street or road. One’s full post code is the street and house number - unless one perhaps live on a farm, well away from other post codes, for instance.

Anecdotal evidence so not conclusive but it may be relevant to note that Tesla makes serious efforts to keep their car battery packs cool.

More than just ‘anecdotal’, Clive. I would say well proven when one reads up on the woes of such as the nissan leaf - which eats through its battery due to a lack of battery conditioning.

Paul,

I just, out of interest, looked for your profile (does not require specific personal information) but it is blank. I think you may need to adjust some settings to make it visible to the general membership.

Toolstation fairly recently opened an outlet nearby (previously the closest was about ten miles away) just off the same road but about half a mile apart - so I now have an alternative to Screwfix. I use either only as a source of cheap bits and pieces.

T’other day when I went into Screwfix for some odds and ends, I found they had no stock for one item, it would take a day to arrive and would I like to order it. My reply was that I would check out Toolstation for that item and mentioned each piece was about 20p cheaper. The Screwfix lady said fair enough and then added that the cost difference was because Screwfix supplies were of better quality. I just smiled and commented that while her claim was true - to beat Toolstation (on quality) was not really so much to shout about.🙂

I don’t buy much, from either outlet, even if I am only looking for just above average quality.

It seems that most are replying by referring to the battery capacity, not the battery life.

If the batteries are Lithium ion chemistry, battery life should be good providing the battery is not continually fully charged or exhausted completely. Lithium ion phosphate chemistry batteries should exhibit an increased number of recharge cycles than Lithium ion polymer types.

I lead/acid chemistry (less likely if truly ‘lightweight ), the battery should not be deeply discharged - and most certainly not left in a discharged state (ie less than fully charged) for any longer than practical. Leaving in a discharged state means early death to lead/acid batteries.

Edited By not done it yet on 21/04/2023 18:40:02

How much does it weigh? Appears to be only 60kg?

I might remove the table, but basically carefully lay it down, secure it to a sensible plank and shift it with one person at each end.

I would expect a lazy tong riveter would cope. I wouldn’t be wanting to do too many of the larger pop rivets with handles only that long - the scissor riveter would be out and in use!

I usually keep away from difficult-to-do ideas and make a work-around.

Here is yet another option: Buy (or probably make) a square broach and make a through hole, filling the unwanted portion afterwards.

Agree. A straight edge edge to centre should show a relatively huge gap, between straight edge and table, at the other edge of the table

You don’t need ‘arcing’ to trip a RCD.

Question: Why would you need a 35mm thread depth at 6mm diameter? Seems pointless, unless there is an exceptionally good reason for it.

Time will tell whether I'll regret this......

Still undecided? Please let us know when you do, and why.

I am fairly confident that my 3 axis DRO readout can run from the mains, without any CR2032 cells in the readers. It is powered by a 6 volt 1 amp switched mode power supply, I believe.

I believe that it is likely that you do not switch off the each reader when not in use? I expect that if you did, the cells would, in fact, last quite a lot longer.

Likely a function of when it is off (really off) and not off (on stand-by🙂 ).

This is mine: DIGITAL DISPLAY UNITS

Edited By not done it yet on 16/04/2023 10:53:52